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2006 V70 D5 185 EGR V Clamp removal

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Old Jul 28th, 2018, 00:03   #21
TurboDiesel2006
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Hi Elan and thank you for getting back to me. I must admit I am confused. I don't see how one can manually move the EGR valve up and down against the spring as the top of the valve stem is welded to a cage that sits over a cam on the end of the (stepper?) motor in the EGR housing. So the only way to move the valve is to rotate the cam. The attached picture shows what I thought I was looking at. So when I said I could move it a few degrees I was referring to being able to turn the valve stem and cam housing very slightly on its axis.

I assumed that the EGR motor was a stepper motor that rotated the cam that pushed down and opened the valve. The amount of travel was measured by the Position Sensor probe that rests on the top of the cage going around the cam. Then that motion is translated into a signal that feeds back to the ECM.

I haven't tried to undo the 4 torx screws holding the cream motor cover in place believing that a) there would not be sufficient space to separate the cam and valve stem cage and b) I might loosen springs or brushes that I wouldn't be able to put back. Am I wrong here and can the valve and motor cam be separated?

Thank you for the help.

Chris
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Old Jul 28th, 2018, 09:13   #22
Clan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboDiesel2006 View Post
Hi Elan and thank you for getting back to me. I must admit I am confused. I don't see how one can manually move the EGR valve up and down against the spring as the top of the valve stem is welded to a cage that sits over a cam on the end of the (stepper?) motor in the EGR housing. So the only way to move the valve is to rotate the cam. The attached picture shows what I thought I was looking at. So when I said I could move it a few degrees I was referring to being able to turn the valve stem and cam housing very slightly on its axis.

I assumed that the EGR motor was a stepper motor that rotated the cam that pushed down and opened the valve. The amount of travel was measured by the Position Sensor probe that rests on the top of the cage going around the cam. Then that motion is translated into a signal that feeds back to the ECM.

I haven't tried to undo the 4 torx screws holding the cream motor cover in place believing that a) there would not be sufficient space to separate the cam and valve stem cage and b) I might loosen springs or brushes that I wouldn't be able to put back. Am I wrong here and can the valve and motor cam be separated?

Thank you for the help.

Chris
right , nice picture there and you have the theory correct ...you should be able to press down on the cage and open the EGR valve against spring pressure and it should spring closes on it's own the motor will turn to accommodate that , If it will not move then either the motor is seized or the EGR valve is stuck , It is more likely the motor is stuck It is a conventional electric motor, not a stepper motor .
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Old Jul 28th, 2018, 11:19   #23
TurboDiesel2006
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Hi and thank you for information on the testing the valve. Looks like its time to take it all out again. Oh what joy! I will let you know how I get on, might be a couple of days as she who must be obeyed has some other jobs for me.
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Old Aug 7th, 2018, 08:23   #24
galloot633
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I had the same fault on my my06 xc90 , the fault was a failed position switch on top of the egr valve ( common fault )
Dave
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Old Sep 22nd, 2018, 19:26   #25
TurboDiesel2006
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Still not fixed.
I have now replaced the EGR valve with a shiny new Pierburg unit (part number 7.00555.06.0). To this I fitted the new Pierburg position sensor (part number 7.00555.07.0) I bought a few weeks back.

When I removed the EGR & Cooler assembly -I'm getting quite experienced at this now but I still seem to loose skin every time- I noted that the cooler butterfly valve would open but seemed a bit stiff to rotate so I cleaned this up and left it to soak in WD40 overnight. By the morning it moved freely when connected to a hand vacuum pump. The bellows assembly also holds the vacuum ok.

I fitted the new assembly to the car, looking forward to seeing all those 185 or so horses that have been awol for several months, but no. No change. The engine system service messages are still there and the car is on low power and feels as if the turbo is missing exactly as it was before I fitted the new EGR valve.

I hooked up the VIDA-DICE and I am still getting the same codes in the Diagnostics tab Unselected CSC.
ECM-4430 EGR Valve, missing signal
ECM-4450 EGR Position Sensor, faulty signal
ECM-4510 EGR Cooler Bypass Valve, signal too low.

If I look at tabs Initial State and Delivery I also get
ECM-683D Turbo control actuator, signal missing
ECM-6500 Engine Pads Signal too low
ECM-6690 Glow relay control signal missing
I assume these are consequences of the EGR problems.

I also tried the VIDA-DICE Activations with the following
EGR Valve - I couldn't hear or see anything happening
EGR Cooler Bypass Actuator - I couldn't see or hear anything
Engine Throttle - I can hear this clicking during the test.

I tried clearing all the codes but they all just came back. I started the car and checked the vehicle Communications>ECM>Activations>Parameters at tick over and when I revved the engine.
ECM-EGR Valve - 100%. This reading was static when the engine was revved
ECM-EGR Valve position sensor - 5.1%. Static as above
ECM-Boost Pressure Actuator - 100%. Static as above
ECM-Throttle position - 91.41%. Static as above
I also tried the swirl valve parameter just to see if anything worked and this increased as I would expect when revving the engine.

I am now stuck. I have fitted a new EGR Valve and Position Sensor, but there is no increase in power, the EGR parameters are still static and I still get the same error codes. I also have the Soot Filter Full message and the DPF error codes but I assume this is because the turbo is not working and when I can get full power and take it for a run these will clear. I have checked the wiring and as far as I can see all the EGR connectors are in place and the wires attached. There no obvious breakages in the wiring and the ECM connectors are firmly in place.

The only part I haven't changed is the EGR Cooler Bypass Valve but if this was faulty and stopping the butterfly valve opening surely the EGR valve would still move. Is there any way to test the Bypass valve?

Any ideas please?
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Old Sep 22nd, 2018, 20:18   #26
Clan
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Originally Posted by TurboDiesel2006 View Post
Still not fixed.
I have now replaced the EGR valve with a shiny new Pierburg unit (part number 7.00555.06.0). To this I fitted the new Pierburg position sensor (part number 7.00555.07.0) I bought a few weeks back.

When I removed the EGR & Cooler assembly -I'm getting quite experienced at this now but I still seem to loose skin every time- I noted that the cooler butterfly valve would open but seemed a bit stiff to rotate so I cleaned this up and left it to soak in WD40 overnight. By the morning it moved freely when connected to a hand vacuum pump. The bellows assembly also holds the vacuum ok.

I fitted the new assembly to the car, looking forward to seeing all those 185 or so horses that have been awol for several months, but no. No change. The engine system service messages are still there and the car is on low power and feels as if the turbo is missing exactly as it was before I fitted the new EGR valve.

I hooked up the VIDA-DICE and I am still getting the same codes in the Diagnostics tab Unselected CSC.
ECM-4430 EGR Valve, missing signal
ECM-4450 EGR Position Sensor, faulty signal
ECM-4510 EGR Cooler Bypass Valve, signal too low.

If I look at tabs Initial State and Delivery I also get
ECM-683D Turbo control actuator, signal missing
ECM-6500 Engine Pads Signal too low
ECM-6690 Glow relay control signal missing
I assume these are consequences of the EGR problems.

I also tried the VIDA-DICE Activations with the following
EGR Valve - I couldn't hear or see anything happening
EGR Cooler Bypass Actuator - I couldn't see or hear anything
Engine Throttle - I can hear this clicking during the test.

I tried clearing all the codes but they all just came back. I started the car and checked the vehicle Communications>ECM>Activations>Parameters at tick over and when I revved the engine.
ECM-EGR Valve - 100%. This reading was static when the engine was revved
ECM-EGR Valve position sensor - 5.1%. Static as above
ECM-Boost Pressure Actuator - 100%. Static as above
ECM-Throttle position - 91.41%. Static as above
I also tried the swirl valve parameter just to see if anything worked and this increased as I would expect when revving the engine.

I am now stuck. I have fitted a new EGR Valve and Position Sensor, but there is no increase in power, the EGR parameters are still static and I still get the same error codes. I also have the Soot Filter Full message and the DPF error codes but I assume this is because the turbo is not working and when I can get full power and take it for a run these will clear. I have checked the wiring and as far as I can see all the EGR connectors are in place and the wires attached. There no obvious breakages in the wiring and the ECM connectors are firmly in place.

The only part I haven't changed is the EGR Cooler Bypass Valve but if this was faulty and stopping the butterfly valve opening surely the EGR valve would still move. Is there any way to test the Bypass valve?

Any ideas please?
Those fault codes are trying to tell you something , signals missing on various sensors , have they all got a power feed ? are their earths ok and what is the signal ? are you getting any output ? Fix one of them and you will fix them all I guess .
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Old Sep 22nd, 2018, 21:08   #27
davebb
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Hi I would say the same as Clan get the multi meter out look at grounds and powers, fuses, broken wires,
Dave
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Old Sep 23rd, 2018, 10:56   #28
TurboDiesel2006
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Thank you for the replies. I am beginning to think the same myself and I have a multi-meter but where to start? I don't know where the earth connections are, VIDA talks about using a special Volvo test adaptor connected to the ECM and the instructions refer to pin numbers in this adaptor. I also struggled to identify the component plug pin from the instructions. I'm sure others have done it so any advice would be welcome.

BTW I see the little black plastic vacuum switch mounted on top of the EGR valve is variously known as Boost Pressure Control Valve and a Governor. The Volvo part number is 8699233 and the Pierburg number is PA6-GF30. This controls the butterfly in the EGR cooler so is 'ECM-4510 Cooler Bypass Valve - signal too low' related to this switch and can it be tested? I found a new one on line for approx 110 which is extortionate for a simple switch so I'd like to check it first.
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Old Sep 23rd, 2018, 23:58   #29
TurboDiesel2006
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Update on the fix, well I'm not sure.

I was rather daunted by the prospect of tracing poor connections and/or earth so I read the whole of the Skintknuckles post 'A puzzle for the EGR valve expert/masochist..' as previous research told me they had looked at this in depth. One comment caught my eye on this second reading - that the EGR, Position sensor and turbo control all went via the same fuse. So more than in hope than expectation I checked it and sure enough it was blown.

Hallelujah all the problems would be solved with a simple fuse swap. No, the car was not giving up that easily. I changed the fuse but the car was still on low power. Hmmm, to say I was disappointed would be an understatement.

But I had to be onto something because although the Engine System Service and Soot Filter messages were still there the EGR fault codes had gone. But the EGR and Position Sensor were still not working with the EGR parameter reading still showing 100% irrespective of engine load and the EGR Position Sensor also static.

The other strange thing was that I now had a new fault code ECM-135F Mass Air Flow Sensor Signal to High. A quick check revealed the swirl actuator had become disconnected. This was quickly fixed but the ECM-135F code remained. Searching for ideas I did an Adaptation of the Mass Air flow Sensor and started the engine. I immediately knew it was running better from the tickover and a quick check showed the EGR valve and EGR Sensor were finally moving. A short road test showed all 185 horses had come home and I felt the shove of the turbo for first time in a couple of months. I then cleared all the codes and another road test confirmed the power was back and the Engine System Service Required message did not come back.

The difficulty is that I can't pin-point exactly what fixed the problem. The fuse was definitely the link between the EGR, the Sensor and the turbo but why didn't they work when it was replaced and their error codes disappeared? And why did the Mass Air Flow sensor problem suddenly appear? It is a mystery which leaves me slightly less than convinced it is fully fixed.

I think for my own peace of mind a good long run is probably required to get everything properly warm and settled in. Of course the motoring gods are ever restless and the ABS light flicked on and off just for a second on my second test drive so I can't relax too much.
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Old Apr 8th, 2019, 23:21   #30
Calle799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboDiesel2006 View Post
Update on the fix, well I'm not sure.

I was rather daunted by the prospect of tracing poor connections and/or earth so I read the whole of the Skintknuckles post 'A puzzle for the EGR valve expert/masochist..' as previous research told me they had looked at this in depth. One comment caught my eye on this second reading - that the EGR, Position sensor and turbo control all went via the same fuse. So more than in hope than expectation I checked it and sure enough it was blown.

Hallelujah all the problems would be solved with a simple fuse swap. No, the car was not giving up that easily. I changed the fuse but the car was still on low power. Hmmm, to say I was disappointed would be an understatement.

But I had to be onto something because although the Engine System Service and Soot Filter messages were still there the EGR fault codes had gone. But the EGR and Position Sensor were still not working with the EGR parameter reading still showing 100% irrespective of engine load and the EGR Position Sensor also static.

The other strange thing was that I now had a new fault code ECM-135F Mass Air Flow Sensor Signal to High. A quick check revealed the swirl actuator had become disconnected. This was quickly fixed but the ECM-135F code remained. Searching for ideas I did an Adaptation of the Mass Air flow Sensor and started the engine. I immediately knew it was running better from the tickover and a quick check showed the EGR valve and EGR Sensor were finally moving. A short road test showed all 185 horses had come home and I felt the shove of the turbo for first time in a couple of months. I then cleared all the codes and another road test confirmed the power was back and the Engine System Service Required message did not come back.

The difficulty is that I can't pin-point exactly what fixed the problem. The fuse was definitely the link between the EGR, the Sensor and the turbo but why didn't they work when it was replaced and their error codes disappeared? And why did the Mass Air Flow sensor problem suddenly appear? It is a mystery which leaves me slightly less than convinced it is fully fixed.

I think for my own peace of mind a good long run is probably required to get everything properly warm and settled in. Of course the motoring gods are ever restless and the ABS light flicked on and off just for a second on my second test drive so I can't relax too much.
Hello TurboDiesel2006,

I think that i may have the same issue like you.

The difference between yours and mine is that mine is just giving me the fault codes for the EGR throttle position sensor faulty signal and sometimes Glowplugs control. I also have Powerloss, feels like it has 50 HP..

I have clean it all, changed the black plastic electronic (position sensor) And still the same problem.. Mine EGR is also stuck on like 99.94% when im looking in the computer at the parameters. When im testing the EGR function via the computer i dont hear anything at all.

I saw that you mention something about a fuse? What is that for fuse?

Do you have any ideas for me? Im lost and stuck. Dont know what to do anymore..

Best regards
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