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C30 DPF limp mode.

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Old Jan 28th, 2015, 02:28   #1
ChristianGM
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Unhappy C30 DPF limp mode.

Hi all, I'm new to the forum (literally just joined to seek advice although i have viewed some of the threads in the past, so apologies for this essay of a post and if it is in the wrong part of the page!).

I have a 2010 C30 1.6 R-Design. It's always been great but over the past 6 months or so it's kept going into limp mode out of the blue. I have almost Zero knowledge about engines and the technical likes but apparently its something to do with the DPF.
A friend who has a local garage has been temporarily repairing the problem for free ( i.e. getting limp mode to sod-off by apparently regenerating the DPF) but usually after 2-3 weeks it pops back and it's seriously frustrating me! It's now been in 5 times for this and my friend at the garage said we'll just keep doing this until i've graduated Uni and start working so that i can afford a new DPF (only 4 months away). Although i know limp mode pops up for a reason and it should be addressed pretty much immediately i've been pushing my luck and putting up with it for weeks at a time before putting it in to the garage and i was wondering if there's any suggestions that may help the problem or maybe take it out of limp mode for a while! I have desperately scoured forums for a while now looking for a quick-fix but been unable to find anything, i have also removed the battery for a few hours but limp mode was still swinging when i connected it all back up!
Does anyone know what may be causing it and if there is anything i can do to fight off limp-mode until i can get a new DPF?
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Old Jan 28th, 2015, 07:24   #2
skyship007
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Assuming the injection system is OK, then try a Sunday morning motorway session, or use a fuel additive to help reduce the Carbon fouling:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/m...0Schutz_EN.pdf

Another trick is to pre heat the engine during the winter, as most deposits form whilst the engine is warming up. So if you can get a cable to the car, then a simple sump heater will reduce the warm up time by about half. A full coolant pre heater is more expensive and complex to install.

If the EGR valve is clogged up, it can also cause the DPF to foul up faster than normal.

This article from the AA is worth reading if you want to know why I did not buy a Volvo with a DPF:
http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice...e-filters.html

The combination of DPF rated low ash engine oils (They contain less Zinc based anti wear additives than normal) and fuel contamination from the Regen cycles is not a good one, as it increases main block wear factors. Changing the oil more often and using an x/40 rather than an x/30 helps, although the AA are correct to point out that DPF units are problematic if you only do short trips. Using an oil additive like Ceratec and a high mileage oil (Or a stop leak additive) can help reduce oil consumption if the block is worn and that will help extend the life of the DPF, by reducing ash deposits.
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Last edited by skyship007; Jan 28th, 2015 at 08:09.
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Old Feb 23rd, 2015, 15:41   #3
DANIELR58
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DO you get an messages on the dash? 'Reduced engine performance etc..'?
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Old Feb 23rd, 2015, 23:03   #4
SonyVaio
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Ok, what is your current mileage??

Your car requires an EOLYS top up every 37,500 miles and a complete DPF change every 75,000 miles. This is why I'm asking your current mileage.

If the DPF is not changed at the correct interval (75,000) then depending on driving and conditions you are likely to get another 20k miles or so before getting complete blockage problems which I suspect you are now experiencing.

You can get the complete blockage problems also though if the EOLYS fluid is not topped up as it is the EOLYS fluid that is injected and used to bring the temperature up high enough as part of the regen process and burn off the particles caught by the DPF. No EOLYS fluid = no regen being completed.

Even if you were to top up the EOLYS correctly you need to tell the car the EOLYS has been topped up. This is by resetting the software counter in the cars computer with the use of VIDA/DICE. So you can also have a situation where DPF and EOLYS has been changed but because software counter has not been reset the car doesn't know it has any fluid left and again will fail on doing regen cycles and thus clogging up the DPF.

Most of this hangs on 2 things, your current mileage and then working out what should have been replaced/topped up when and indeed if they were or not.

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Old Apr 23rd, 2019, 14:09   #5
Petespark
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Default Limp mode

Quote:
Originally Posted by skyship007 View Post
Assuming the injection system is OK, then try a Sunday morning motorway session, or use a fuel additive to help reduce the Carbon fouling:
http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/m...0Schutz_EN.pdf

Another trick is to pre heat the engine during the winter, as most deposits form whilst the engine is warming up. So if you can get a cable to the car, then a simple sump heater will reduce the warm up time by about half. A full coolant pre heater is more expensive and complex to install.

If the EGR valve is clogged up, it can also cause the DPF to foul up faster than normal.

This article from the AA is worth reading if you want to know why I did not buy a Volvo with a DPF:
http://www.theaa.com/motoring_advice...e-filters.html

The combination of DPF rated low ash engine oils (They contain less Zinc based anti wear additives than normal) and fuel contamination from the Regen cycles is not a good one, as it increases main block wear factors. Changing the oil more often and using an x/40 rather than an x/30 helps, although the AA are correct to point out that DPF units are problematic if you only do short trips. Using an oil additive like Ceratec and a high mileage oil (Or a stop leak additive) can help reduce oil consumption if the block is worn and that will help extend the life of the DPF, by reducing ash deposits.
I also have a C30 1.6 d 107000 on the clock. Had the fluid done about 80000 miles ago. It went in to limp mode a few months later. So had a full dpf and carbon clean along with new fuel filter. Been fine for about 6 months today went back in to limp mode.
Getting very frustrated.and expensive.
Now worried the garage did not re set the software when they replaced the fluid.
No warning lights on at the moment though very strange
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