XC70: Information Replacing the Radiator on 2010 XC70 D5 Manual T

[Traveller11]

Hi Folks!

Looking for some advice in replacing the Radiator on my 2010 XC70 D5 SE Manual Transmission Volvo please.

Knew I had a leak on the coolant which thankfully at the moment is very slow and having got a small bottle of Rad Block which I will only use if required as I prefer to just keep an eye on the coolant level and top up.

So I am hoping that someone on the Forum has performed this replacement operation and can advise me how to go about it?

Thanks

[tt82]

I recently changed the intercooler sensor on my D5 and did most of the work leading up to changing the radiator. I had some spare time waiting for the sensor so I used the opportunity to give the EGR valve a quick clean and also deal with some rust issues on the lower radiator support member.

If you have any specific questions, I'd be happy to answer them.

[Model flyer]

Put the Radweld in as the day you forget to check the level is the day it looses more coolant and cooks your engine. If it only a small leak then the Radweld will fix it fine. I have used it in many cars over the years without problem.

[Traveller11]

Originally Posted by Model flyer

Put the Radweld in as the day you forget to check the level is the day it looses more coolant and cooks your engine. If it only a small leak then the Radweld will fix it fine. I have used it in many cars over the years without problem.

The 'Header Tank' has a sensor in it which fires up a warning on the Dashboard telling you you have LOW COOLANT, PULL OVER AND SWITCH OFF ENGINE' when the coolant drops below the Min mark, and as a number of other motorists have advised that once the 'Stop Leak' is in the system it can be quite difficult to flush out either before or after fitting a new rad, so for now I am just keeping an eye on the coolant level and travelling with a few liters of extra water.

[Traveller11]

Originally Posted by tt82

I recently changed the intercooler sensor on my D5 and did most of the work leading up to changing the radiator. I had some spare time waiting for the sensor so I used the opportunity to give the EGR valve a quick clean and also deal with some rust issues on the lower radiator support member.

If you have any specific questions, I'd be happy to answer them.

Thanks for the info tt82.

Not sure what EGR stands for as I don't recognise the 3 letter abbreviation.

I was actually looking for specific instructions on the steps you need to perform to get the rad out of the car so that I can swap it out and fit a new one when we get back from Morocco while I hope this one lasts long enough to get us back to the UK.

Cheers

[tt82]

EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation and it is situated prior to the intake manifold.

A Haynes manual covers the majority of info needed. Basically it is;

1) Undo clips for bumper (7 on top, 3 underneath and 5 bolts in each wheel arch.
2) Pull bumper forwards, (help needed) undo electrical connections and hoses to headlight wipers. (hoses are a grey U clip at the unit.
3) Move bumper out of way.
4) Support radiators either via strap completely underneath or from the top.
5) Remove lower radiator support cross member. (2 bolts at each side.)
6) Disconnect motors on fan assembly.
7) Remove fan assembly. (I think there may be 2 bolts at the top, after that it basically sits in slots and just pulls up.)
8) Drain coolant.
9) Remove coolant hoses
10) Remove radiator whilst keeping A/C & Intercooler supported.

[Traveller11]

Originally Posted by tt82

EGR stands for Exhaust Gas Recirculation and it is situated prior to the intake manifold.

A Haynes manual covers the majority of info needed. Basically it is;

1) Undo clips for bumper (7 on top, 3 underneath and 5 bolts in each wheel arch.
2) Pull bumper forwards, (help needed) undo electrical connections and hoses to headlight wipers. (hoses are a grey U clip at the unit.
3) Move bumper out of way.
4) Support radiators either via strap completely underneath or from the top.
5) Remove lower radiator support cross member. (2 bolts at each side.)
6) Disconnect motors on fan assembly.
7) Remove fan assembly. (I think there may be 2 bolts at the top, after that it basically sits in slots and just pulls up.)
8) Drain coolant.
9) Remove coolant hoses
10) Remove radiator whilst keeping A/C & Intercooler supported.

Thanks for the list of 'how to' but while reading through I think there are a number of differences as I don't have headlight wipers.
There is a small plate mounted on the top of the bumper that opens and a jet of water sprays onto the headlights to 'wash' it.

I also have 2 triangular pieces one either side of the rad that are fitted into the top plate that goes across the front of the car and have plastic 'pins' underneath which when removed and the 'pins' come out the rad can then be tilted backwards which then looks like it can be pulled out upwards after disconnecting the hoses and removing the frame and cooling fans, while looking underneath there are no bolts only a couple of other 'pins' holding the bottom of the rad in place.

Haynes Manuals do not unfortunately cover this model as it is a 2011 version which I bought in December 2010.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Traveller11

Thanks for the list of 'how to' but while reading through I think there are a number of differences as I don't have headlight wipers.
There is a small plate mounted on the top of the bumper that opens and a jet of water sprays onto the headlights to 'wash' it.

I also have 2 triangular pieces one either side of the rad that are fitted into the top plate that goes across the front of the car and have plastic 'pins' underneath which when removed and the 'pins' come out the rad can then be tilted backwards which then looks like it can be pulled out upwards after disconnecting the hoses and removing the frame and cooling fans, while looking underneath there are no bolts only a couple of other 'pins' holding the bottom of the rad in place.

Haynes Manuals do not unfortunately cover this model as it is a 2011 version which I bought in December 2010.

You will need to drop all 3 radiators together out the bottom to make it a much easier job , remove the bumper assembly too , the radiators are all fitted to each other with plastic shrouds and air guides which lock into place.. This will mean getting the gas removed from the AC of course and put back when you have done the job ...
The radiator usually leaks at the lower Right hand corner where the alloy is crimped to the plastic tank , I would use K-seal directly into the radiator ,An ideal substance to make a permanent repair and save yourself an unpleasant job and a fair chunk of money .

[Traveller11]

Originally Posted by Clan

You will need to drop all 3 radiators together out the bottom to make it a much easier job , remove the bumper assembly too , the radiators are all fitted to each other with plastic shrouds and air guides which lock into place.. This will mean getting the gas removed from the AC of course and put back when you have done the job ...
The radiator usually leaks at the lower Right hand corner where the alloy is crimped to the plastic tank , I would use K-seal directly into the radiator ,An ideal substance to make a permanent repair and save yourself an unpleasant job and a fair chunk of money .

Hi Clan,

Thank you for your reply.
I was a bit surprised that you said '3 radiators' though as I thought it was fitted with 2 as it is a manual transmission model, so I would have thought:
1 Rad Engine Cooling
1 Rad AC system

I have read only good things about the product 'K-seal' but I cannot find it over here in Morocco, so will have to keep topping up the coolant level after each time I check the system and before the warning message appears on the dashboard as the level goes below the 'Min' level in the header tank!

We covered around 50 miles yesterday over some hilly roads and it 'lost' a small amount of coolant, so I am hoping that I can get back home without to much trouble and then get it sorted out!

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Traveller11

Hi Clan,

Thank you for your reply.
I was a bit surprised that you said '3 radiators' though as I thought it was fitted with 2 as it is a manual transmission model, so I would have thought:
1 Rad Engine Cooling
1 Rad AC system

I have read only good things about the product 'K-seal' but I cannot find it over here in Morocco, so will have to keep topping up the coolant level after each time I check the system and before the warning message appears on the dashboard as the level goes below the 'Min' level in the header tank!

We covered around 50 miles yesterday over some hilly roads and it 'lost' a small amount of coolant, so I am hoping that I can get back home without to much trouble and then get it sorted out!

the intercooler is attached to the radiator " pack" as well . You have E-bay in morocco? K-seal via E-bay everywhere i would think