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S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
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Tailgate wont openViews : 76935 Replies : 172Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Oct 9th, 2011, 20:25 | #51 |
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Location: Gainesville GA
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Volvo V70 Tailgate Won't Open Either
My 1989 V70 tailgate wouldn't open. The locking mechanism worked (moved), and the unlatching rods were all moving as they should, but it just simply wouldn't open (wouldn't turn loose the latch). I love my Volvos, but I think this is a terrible design on Volvo's part. If one little plastic piece is broken (and plastic certainly will break – especially as it ages), the latch will not release, and there is no good way to get it open. You can't even get the latch mechanism out to service it because you have to release it, to get it out to work on it. Anyway, I came up with a way to release the latch (without destroying everything). This is what I did:
I used info I found here in the forum to see exactly where the piece was that apparently wasn't moving to unlatch. Instead of destroying the lock, I went inside, opened the spare tire hatch, and exposed the 2 large Torx bolts that hold the bottom piece that the latch locks onto, and removed the bolts. There are also 4 small Torx screws that hold down the trim that covers the larger latch bolts. You can access the larger bolts without taking this trim loose, but removing the smaller screws allows the trim to lift up enough for the lower piece to come out without breaking the trim. Then I was able to push the tailgate open (with this bottom piece still attached). With the tailgate open, I was able to drill a small hole in the latch piece mounted to the tailgate (see picture). From this hole, I used a small screwdriver to push the inner piece (not sure what you call it – small pivoting piece that releases the latch) and I released the latch. I think Volvo should have thought ahead and put a hole here from the factory. It sure would remedy a serious flaw. Note: Be careful drilling the hole. Use a device to limit the depth to just the metal thickness if possible, because just past this hole is a plastic covered piece that (if not already broken causing your problem) will easily break if your drill pops through and hits it. My hole worked, but was almost too high (in the pic, it could have been more to the left and been even better). In my case the little plastic piece that covers the metal latch release (the piece accesses through this hole) was broken. That's why it wouldn't release. I hated to pay $150 for a new latch, so I went in (removed the 2 Phillips screws holding the plastic top part to the metal bottom part of the latch mechanism) and exposed the metal arm that moves when the rods depress the spoon - that is supposed to release the latch. Since the plastic piece was broken off, this metal arm could no longer reach the latch release piece. So, I straightened the arm, and made a metal extension for it, and riveted the extension in place (just needed to be about 5/16” longer). I put it all back together, and it works great now - better than it ever has before! I think that silly little plastic tab was probably cracked and messed up all along. This car has always had chronic issues with the tailgate being difficult to open. I think I've fixed it, but if it ever messes up again, at least I have a hole there to release the latch! |
Dec 31st, 2011, 17:28 | #52 |
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My tailgate wouldn't open and there was no resistance at the manual release. As per the instructions earlier in this thread I prised away the trim above the wiper motor and pressed the little black spoon to release. The motorised actuator was stuck fully out. I removed the motor box , opened it expecting a bit of tlc and lubrication would sort it but it didn't. The rod would stick after a few cycles always in the fully out position. The motor always ran with the actuator rod assembly out. Playing with the box for a while I realised that the plastic wheel was not engaging with the motor pinion properly leading to roughness and jamming. I packed the motor up about 1 mm and bingo the box runs smooth as silk. So far about fifty cycles with no trouble and I'm quietly confident.
V70 2003 |
Jan 12th, 2012, 15:22 | #53 |
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Tailgate just cant get it to open
I have been trying to unlock my tailgate, everyone who seems to have tried it makes it sound like a walk in the park.
I am having no such luck !! To try an get a better view I removed the rear wiper, its motor and wash tube all from within the boot space with me pulling on the door trim to get it out. This motor removal did not help. I tried to send a PM to the author of the thread Symes only to find that I am not allowed to contact him directly until I have submitted 30 individual threads of my own... I just cant wait that long, can someone please pass on my thread to him in the hope that I can correspond directly with him All I need to do is talk it through with him I will call him and cover the call costs. But I do need some help in trying to open this door from within.. I live on Dartmoor Devon, is there a member on the site that lives near me that I could turn to for help. Patrick.. Cut to pieces and still trying to get the door open |
Jan 13th, 2012, 17:52 | #54 |
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Here is what I did to get the actuator running smoother and jam free - a piece of garden center label under the motor.
DSC00161.jpg |
Jan 13th, 2012, 20:44 | #55 |
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Patrick, PM sent. Symes
Last edited by Symes; Jan 13th, 2012 at 20:44. Reason: must be a duff keyboard! |
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Jan 14th, 2012, 18:41 | #56 | |
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Thanks for the reply, I located the spoon and opened the back door eventually. !!!!
However soon after the repair I was doing it again, released the lock again and then used the cable tie to reduce the over shoot of the motor. Whilst under test it worked fine, replaced all the furniture around the tailgate and tested again. All fine. Then some days later the same thing back door locked again. I checked all wires and they work fine with no breaks!!! Can you offer any answers as to why I am constantly going back in to locate the spoon release. Thanks Pat Quote:
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Jan 14th, 2012, 20:35 | #57 |
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IMHO the mechanism is not overshooting , but jamming in the fully out position due to wear between the motor pinion and the worm drive or their centres being too far apart which in my case was fixed by packing up the motor. See posts #52 and #54 above.
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Jan 14th, 2012, 23:53 | #58 | |
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Quote:
Replaced the complete lock checked it's operation all fine !! Door failed to open again removed lock again and used the cable tie to reduce the travel from the piston. The lock was reinstalled checked again and facia replaced. Locked worked for many tries then left it a day or so then tried the lock, it failed to open. The loom is fine, the lock operates and now stops early with the aid of the cable tie stoping it from over extending. However tomorrow I will be removing the lock again in the hope of finding the problem. You have I see placed a slim item under the motor I understand you have done this to ensure good tight interface between the two geared heads. I do not have a problem with these gear heads they fit tightly together with no micro movement between them. So if I was to insert a pice of plastic under the motor I would place the motor and it's gear head under unnessarry strain. The end result would be a new motor. Thanks for you input but I will not work on this problem. Thanks Pat |
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Jan 15th, 2012, 11:40 | #59 |
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Bear with me a bit and try a few tests.
Is the actuator plunger locked in the fully out position and can it be freed by pushing hard back in? Disconnect the actuator box from the lock mechanism and cycle it with the fob - does it lock up after a few cycles. With the disconnected box in your hand can you push and pull the rod freely and smoothly. Remove the plastic wheels from the box and will the motor run always. In my case the gears are slightly too far apart and climb over each other and jam. The little packing piece is not for a tight fit , just brings them closer together and the rod runs in and out very smooth with no noises or locking. |
Jan 15th, 2012, 21:41 | #60 |
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Tailgate Lock
I have removed the lock again!
The lock actuator works freely, it does not lock-up at all! I opened the motor box and could not get a 1mm shim under the motor as its fit was very snug. with the box open and connected to a power supply the motor cycles without lucking up, with the internal workings removed and the motor connected to the power the motor runs without locking up. As the test above did not show any problems I moved on to the metal bars within the lock. I placed the metal bars on a piece of paper and drew its outline! I replaced the lock within the car and decided to bend the metal bar to the right towards the actuator. I thought the bar was bent to much to the left....This is as you look out of the car whilst sitting in the load space, and it was missing the release so with nothing to loose I bent the bar and tried the lock insitu with the fascia off. The lock is NOW working fine, the bar is now bent to its new position and seems to have fixed my problem. I removed the lock once again and placed the metal rod within the lines I had placed on paper showing the original shape of the bar , I had bent the bar back some 5 to 7mm.. I will monitor the lock with the covering off just in case it fails again. I think the bar had been bent out of shape due to the high number of times it became dislodged when the lock failed. Those of you who have had this lock out of the car will have noticed the bar is bent in two distinctive places. I don't think any of us who have fixed this problem know exactly how much these bars should be bent. I hope I have done enough to ensure the lock continues to open and lock with the Key Fob... if it fails again I will try and bend the bar again. I will get it right but I cant say when I will do it .......! |
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