1800: 1972 pv1800es

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Very nice Alan!

The Omega clips have already been linked to, easiest place to get them is from the local Volvo dealer :

https://www.gcp.se/en/?s=687299

About £2.80 each give or take after conversion from SEK to GBP.

Headlights - check and clean the fuses as i explained how to in Chris 152s thread (1/4" drill bit and emery cloth), also check to see if there is power reaching the headlamps. They may still be simple sealed beam units, in which case there are many 7" headlight upgrade units with proper LED bulbs available to fit them or you can go for halogen H4 bulbs but may have to uprate the wiring.

Originally Posted by 142 Guy

Indeed, if you are going to switch to H4 bulbs the installation of auxiliary fused relays to supply the headlights directly from the main vehicle bus bar is a worthwhile improvement. First off, it reduces the current flow through the headlight switch and the latching hi/lo relay which extends the life of those components. The second is that it reduces the voltage drop to the headlights significantly. My 142E runs with an alternator voltage typically around 14 volts; but, with the original headlight wiring the voltage at the H4 filaments was about 12.5 volts, less with the interior fan running. That was an 11% drop through the vehicle wiring. Light output from an incandescent bulb varies as a function of about V^^3.4 (depending on your technical reference and the bulb type). An 11% drop in voltage makes a huge difference in light output.

Thank you chaps.

1. I'll tell Janet to get the clips from her Volvo dealer.

2. Fuses? Hang on Dave, surely there isn't going to be a fuse for the headlamps is there? I haven't looked at the wiring diagram yet, but normal practice is to control the headlamps via a relay (and I can hear one clicking). I don't think there will be a fuse involved in this circuit (but I'll check today).

3. LED bulbs would be a really good idea - I'll mention that to Janet and see what she wants to do.

4. The good news is the car came with a nice (but well used) proper Volvo service manual, and a folder full of Volvo green books (although they appear to be mostly for the Amazon - there are quite a few similarities):



Many thanks for your help chaps. I've set aside today to do the immediate jobs:

1. Fix the exhaust banging on the chassis.
2. Get the headlamps working.
3. Investigate the speedometer cable.
4. Fix the windscreen washers (just need putting together properly I think).
5. If time allows I may flush the cooling system - the coolant in there looks well past its best.

What fun!

[packers1712]

I'm pleased to here and see that the sale was agreed and that the journey home was reasonably pain free, I might have some winder handle clips spare you could have I'll have a look this evening when I get home and let you know.

Good luck today!

Doug.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by packers1712

I'm pleased to here and see that the sale was agreed and that the journey home was reasonably pain free, I might have some winder handle clips spare you could have I'll have a look this evening when I get home and let you know.

Good luck today!

Doug.

Many thanks Doug. That would be very kind of you.
Alan

[Army]

Good story

Survived the A50 (is it one of those so called "smart motorways" that are killing people?)

In this country (the Netherlands) the A50 is also a bit of a pain in the arse - I suspect a pan European conspiracy of naming - I might be driving on the Dutch A50 this weekend...

...exhausts - especially if you are doing a DIY fix - replace the lot - don't mess about with rubbish made by others. Old exhausts are vicious - nasty cuts filled with soot - struggling on your back in a rain storm - uggggh!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Army

Good story

Survived the A50 (is it one of those so called "smart motorways" that are killing people?)

In this country (the Netherlands) the A50 is also a bit of a pain in the arse - I suspect a pan European conspiracy of naming - I might be driving on the Dutch A50 this weekend...

...exhausts - especially if you are doing a DIY fix - replace the lot - don't mess about with rubbish made by others. Old exhausts are vicious - nasty cuts filled with soot - struggling on your back in a rain storm - uggggh!

The A50 isn't a smart motorway, the way roads are numbered here in the UK means it is what we call an "A road" - usually just two lanes, one each way.
Motorways have an "M" prefix so M25 (the worlds biggest car park), M6, M11, M1, M3 etc. Motorways are usually 3 lanes of traffic each way (6 lanes total) plus a "hard shoulder" which is an extra lane for emergency use only - emergencies being breakdowns and access for emergency vehicles if there's an accident.

The so-called smart motorways make use of the hard shoulder as an extra driving lane, leaving no emergency safe area for those who have broken down or for emergency vehicles to get through.
Great idea if nobody ever has an emergency or there are no accidents but as you know, life doesn't happen that way!

That's what makes smart motorways dangerous and lethal to many.

Looking at Alans pics of the exhaust, it looks relatively new so i'd guess a misaligned section and/or rubber hanger not placed right.

[mike gilbert]

I've recently a similar experience after driving home a new purchase 1800S that had not been properly used for some years. The speedo didn't work - cable just needed taking out and lubricating. I made that a first job because a sticking cable can shear the drive teeth. Fuel gauge not working, needed the sender unit taking out and the float arm freeing off. Headlights not working were just down to furred connections. No dashboard lights, rheostat was U/S so I've wired dash lights to the side light feed.
With regard to your exhaust, I think the injection cars had a hanger that attaches to the panhard rod bracket you have pictured (but its ages since I looked at one). Also look at the rear hanging bracket above the tailpipes, if the bushes in that are not in tip top condition the rear box always bangs.
Your winders should have a black plastic cup between the winder and door card if its missing.
The car looks really solid underneath, the only thing I would say is ithe front jacking points might be missing? (hard to be sure from the pics but I cant see them). I see your in Corby, not too far away, so might see the car in the flesh some time.

[john.wigley]

Originally Posted by Army

Good story

Survived the A50 (is it one of those so called "smart motorways" that are killing people?)

In this country (the Netherlands) the A50 is also a bit of a pain in the arse - I suspect a pan European conspiracy of naming - I might be driving on the Dutch A50 this weekend...

...exhausts - especially if you are doing a DIY fix - replace the lot - don't mess about with rubbish made by others. Old exhausts are vicious - nasty cuts filled with soot - struggling on your back in a rain storm - uggggh!

The A50 is far from 'smart' in both senses of the word, 'Army'. It is an old dual carriageway, upgraded in places, with frequent traffic islands. There is no hard shoulder, just lay-byes at intervals. Traffic moves at motorway speeds and it is a road demanding the utmost concentration.

We also have in our area the infamous M/A42, which was originally intended to be a motorway for it's entire length. Money ran out during the build and the northernmost 15 miles upto the M1was built sans hard shoulder and down-graded to an A-road. The part around Birmingham is 'smart' and, in fairness, does work reasonably well, unless, that is, one is unfortunate enough to break down. Then it can become a nightmare.

I agree regarding exhausts. There used to be a firm in Wales (Sterling Exhausts (?)) who advertised in the Volvo Driver. They specialised in stainless systems. We had one on a 145, which was trouble-free, and another on a 365. The weld on the back box on the 360 failed after 9 years and they replaced the box FOC without question. If the firm is still going and working to the same standards, I would highly recommend them.

Regards, John.

[Army]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

The A50 isn't a smart motorway, the way roads are numbered here in the UK means it is what we call an "A road" - usually just two lanes, one each way.
Motorways have an "M" prefix so M25 (the worlds biggest car park), M6, M11, M1, M3 etc. Motorways are usually 3 lanes of traffic each way (6 lanes total) plus a "hard shoulder" which is an extra lane for emergency use only - emergencies being breakdowns and access for emergency vehicles if there's an accident.

The so-called smart motorways make use of the hard shoulder as an extra driving lane, leaving no emergency safe area for those who have broken down or for emergency vehicles to get through.
Great idea if nobody ever has an emergency or there are no accidents but as you know, life doesn't happen that way!

That's what makes smart motorways dangerous and lethal to many.

Looking at Alans pics of the exhaust, it looks relatively new so i'd guess a misaligned section and/or rubber hanger not placed right.

Originally Posted by john.wigley

The A50 is far from 'smart' in both senses of the word, 'Army'. It is an old dual carriageway, upgraded in places, with frequent traffic islands. There is no hard shoulder, just lay-byes at intervals. Traffic moves at motorway speeds and it is a road demanding the utmost concentration.

We also have in our area the infamous M/A42, which was originally intended to be a motorway for it's entire length. Money ran out during the build and the northernmost 15 miles upto the M1was built sans hard shoulder and down-graded to an A-road. The part around Birmingham is 'smart' and, in fairness, does work reasonably well, unless, that is, one is unfortunate enough to break down. Then it can become a nightmare.

I agree regarding exhausts. There used to be a firm in Wales (Sterling Exhausts (?)) who advertised in the Volvo Driver. They specialised in stainless systems. We had one on a 145, which was trouble-free, and another on a 365. The weld on the back box on the 360 failed after 9 years and they replaced the box FOC without question. If the firm is still going and working to the same standards, I would highly recommend them.

Regards, John.

What's wrong with me?

I've been away for so long I've forgotten what an A road is...

...that's depressing. Time to come home. I've turned into a bloody foreigner!

[Derek UK]

If you haven't already, bookmark Brookhouse as a one stop shop for virtually any parts you need. Omega clips etc. Exhaust clamps/fitting kit, speedo cable etc. It's common to rotate the silencer box you show, to get everything to clear but that may be too far, especially if the final supports have been pulled up too far. Loosen all of the clamps and twist them around a bit. The whole system should "hang" and not be tight anywhere. Generic rubber rings can be too small and pull everything out of position.

https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/

[powen1]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

If you haven't already, bookmark Brookhouse as a one stop shop for virtually any parts you need. Omega clips etc. Exhaust clamps/fitting kit, speedo cable etc. It's common to rotate the silencer box you show, to get everything to clear but that may be too far, especially if the final supports have been pulled up too far. Loosen all of the clamps and twist them around a bit. The whole system should "hang" and not be tight anywhere. Generic rubber rings can be too small and pull everything out of position.

https://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/

Agree with derek,

When I looked at mine middle silencer is laying flat not twisted - I'm sure if you straighten that part the back will rise a bit near panhard Rod - I do have pics but couldn't attach to this reply sorry. sent email if you need them ?headlamp, check earth, speedo I took out the 90. degree bit and connected direct not sure of correct but works a treat :-)