General: V50/S40 DPF or FAP filter removal

[supafly]

I've been trying to get some more reading done and found these...

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=149918

http://www.enginesens.com/Delta-P_in...structions.pdf

I've also read (on a ford forum) that their ecu checks the sensor output at ignition before starting and then checks again when running. This may be why we're having problems if we are supplying a constant voltage. Similar to clans post in the above thread.

I'm going to check my wiring and then set it at 0.75 and see what happens. Then if no more joy I'll be going down the remap route...

[shark90]

Originally Posted by dounroid

Shark90, would you send me the DPF replacement section? I guess I fit that and then re-map using your tool?

We haven't done any 2.0D exhaust development yet, we usually empty the standard DPF and reweld it back together to keep the standard look.

If you can have that carried out then we can do the mapping etc using our softloader.

[dounroid]

Ok, so today my code reader arrived so I was able to shed a bit of light on the situation.

I had previously set the sensor to 2.5V and the system was in limp mode all the time.

So I checked the code and it was P2455 - DPF filter higher than expected voltage. Even if I reset the code without the engine running it would come back.

So I set the voltage to 0.2V SIG to GND and this time I got the low voltage code P2453.

So I changed the voltage to 0.36V SIG to GND. This time I had both P2455 & P2453. Not sure how I can get both codes for high and low at the same time.

I then started the car and I had full power again. After a minute or so I got a new code P2002 - DPF efficiency below threshold. I'm guessing this is because it's expecting a higher sensor voltage.

I'm going to give the car a run now to see if it drops into limp mode on a 5 mile journey. Now I've got the code reader I might reconnect the original sensor to see what codes I get again.

Shark, if I remove the DPF myself and core out the filter, how much would it be to remap the engine with your kit?

[dounroid]

Right, I went for approximately 50 meters down my drive and then 25 meters up the road and the car entered into limp mode... No new codes as far as I can see but I reakon the three sensor codes are enough for it to die... I've reconnected the old sensor.

Now I'm swithering what to do. I could take it to the local ford garage and get them to top up the eolys and possibly replace the DPF sensor. I'm guessing this will be a bill of £300+. I'm going to use the car for my work run instead of letting my wife tootle about dropping off children / getting shopping and visiting friends (all <5 mile runs). Or, alternatively, I could go with shark's ECU mod, but the cost is more and at the end of the day I'm going to have a car that's been modified. Hmmm decision time. I think I'll phone the ford garage tomorrow and see what the score is. I like the idea of getting rid of it, but I can't bring myself to pay a large amount of money when it might be a lesser amount to fix (gotta be hopeful). I guess I can take it to the garage and get an estimate before I proceed.

Ok, so as far as I can see this miracle cure is a failure. I think the fact that the original poster has never really followed up the comments suggests that it's not the wonder-cure I was hoping for...

[faffi]

And you people go through all this without success and think you're saving money over spending 4-500 pounds with Shark

[dounroid]

Heh, I am planning to go with shark, it's just I live so far from any of his (their?) locations that it's not easy for me to organise.

Also £500 is not a small amount of money if you can get something to work for £5. I was dubious about this cure and I'm proved right, but there's no harm in trying.

[faffi]

Well, I'm of the stubborn sort myself and would prolly have tried something similar. Oh, what price wisdom

[supafly]

... plus it's an opportunity to learn something more and then have a better understanding of how this works.

I resoldered the connection back on and plugged the sensor back in....
been running well for two days now. not holding my breath though.

When I get a chance I'll test the outputs from the original sensor as I think mine is working fine. If there is a two stage ecu test then I was thinking that this could quite easily be done by using a relay to trip to the resistor when the engine is running. Also if the ecu expects an rpm dependant variation that could also be done with a fairly simple circuit.

[getsome]

Lovely that someone is willing to experiment on this matter I will myself do some cheap magic with my car but this will have to wait until I have my vacation and can experiment without the desperate need of having a working car to get me to work. I think the ECU wants a load dependant and not rpm dependant variation hence my idea of taking the MAF/MAP signal and dividing it with a 10 K resistor and a 10 K pot. I can if this will help make a log/graph with my vida of RPM , Load , MAF , DPF Sensor values and maybe we can crack this once and for all.

[supafly]

Sounds like a more logical way of doing it. You are correct in thinking it is load based as opposed to rpm, I was just thinking and typing too quickly.

It would also be interesting to see what effect the egt sensor has. From what I have read on some vehicle they use a resistor to trick the ecu into thinking the egt's are around the 600 degrees celcius mark. From what I understand the dpf only has to be that hot duing regeneration. Although if the ecu logs low temps for x amount of time I wonder if that has any bearing on regen or limp mode...

It would be great to get more data and if you have access to vida then sensor logs would be invaluable in trying to 'trick' this thing.

After starting to research this matter I have found many bad stories of remaps that haven't been effective in stopping the regen process. I would be very interested to know how our remaps can ensure that regen doesn't occur.