The Morbidmobile Blog

[TomSaintJames]

Hello fellow volvo folks, I jave been doing lots of Hearse related planning if not any actual progress with it

The first plan was to requisition the conservatory for doing the Penta engine investigations, but now that we have cleared and organised it that isnlt going to happen. So the old pond at the bottom of the garden has been cleared and sorted (it was full of stuff destined for the tip and bonfire), there is space for an engine and a gazebo, so that is the next plan.

In other news, I have been purchasing more and more bits from the HPT car that 360beast is breaking so that we can get on with the LH2.4+Turbo+2.5L conversion, even if only in the planning stages so far. I have a few questions that I hope the volvo sages can answer

1. Is the LH2.4 HPT turbo instrument cluster (with the turbo pressure gauge!) likely to be compatible with the fuel sender unit in the Hearse? (1988 2.0 K-Jet B200E). Also will it be compatible with the 740's electrics? Not sure what unit is in there, it does look like the attached though.

2. Distributor, my car has a head mounted dizzy with hall sensor for the tacho. Can I use this dizzy but just ignore/remove the hall sensor, or do I need one from a Turbo/LH2.4 car?

3. Alternator, I imagine the B200E has a lower output unit than a proper EFI LH2.4 car? As long as this doesn't cause big issues I think it can wait, as the spend is ever increasing just now

4. What is a Vacuum booster valve, is this the plastic part that comes off of the brake servo with a pipe to the inlet manifold (Brake booster check valve)? I got some of my info from turbo bricks so there are some American terms that I don't understand.

5. For now, until we can get a proper custom stainless exhaust, will the turbo downpipe fit onto the existing 2.0 front pipe? (B200E, no cat etc). Not ideal I know.

6. Fuel pumps, what kind of specs or should I just get a new standard B230FT/FK pump? Any ideas for the in-tank pump?

Phew! Lots to think about, i'll pop my conversion list up here when I have another spare hour. I'm off virtual gazebo shopping, cheers!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by TomSaintJames

Hello fellow volvo folks, I jave been doing lots of Hearse related planning if not any actual progress with it

The first plan was to requisition the conservatory for doing the Penta engine investigations, but now that we have cleared and organised it that isnlt going to happen. So the old pond at the bottom of the garden has been cleared and sorted (it was full of stuff destined for the tip and bonfire), there is space for an engine and a gazebo, so that is the next plan.

In other news, I have been purchasing more and more bits from the HPT car that 360beast is breaking so that we can get on with the LH2.4+Turbo+2.5L conversion, even if only in the planning stages so far. I have a few questions that I hope the volvo sages can answer

1. Is the LH2.4 turbo instrument cluster (with the turbo pressure gauge!) likely to be compatible with the fuel sendre unit in the Hearse? (1988 2.0 K-Jet B200E).

It's unlikely to be compatible with the wiring loom in the hearse Tom, many things were changed with the multiplug pin-outs in 1990, 1991, 1992 and i believe one more change before production ended in 1998/9. Nothing to stop you retrofitting the turbo boost gugae into your binnacle though as it's purely pressure operated via a hose.



2. Distributor, my car has a head mounted dizzy with hall sensor for the tacho. Can I use this dizzy but just ignore/remove the hall sensor, or do I need one from a Turbo/LH2.4 car?

Errrr, do you mean your car has a block mounted dizzy with Hall Effect? The LH2.4 uses a sensor in the bellhousing and a matching flywheel/driveplate to trigger it.

If you have a head mounted dizzy with HE sensor (yours being 1988 was just after the changeover and being a conversion, possible it was an earlier car with block mounted dizzy) then as long as you use the LH loom and CPS in the bellhousing, you can use the mechanical part of the existing dizzy, just connect the HT side of things as normal.



3. Alternator, I imagine the B200E has a lower output unit than a proper EFI LH2.4 car? As long as this doesn't cause big issues I think it can wait, as the spend is ever increasing just now

Why not get the higher output alternator from the LH car? I'm sure Luke would be accommodating on price and combined postage.



4. What is a Vacuum booster valve, is this the plastic part that comes off of the brake servo with a pipe tot he inlet manifold (Brake booster check valve)? I got some of my info from turbo bricks so there are some American terms that I don't understand.

Yes. The pitfalls of using "foreign" sites sadly. I've learned many of the USA words for car related stuff (and a few others - American couple in my local Co-op recently, wife couldn't find something, her glasses i think and husband tells her it/they are in her "fanny-pack". Looked it up online and discovered it's what we call a "bum bag". One US meaning of "bum" is what we call a vagrant/tramp but that seems to vary with context) so am happy to help you translate.



5. For now, until we can get a proper custom stainless exhaust, will the turbo downpipe fit with the existing 2.0 front pipe? (B200E, no cat etc). Not idal I know.

You can buy pipe reducers if necessary Tom :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/All-Size-...e/132373971777

Picked at random to show the idea, you'll have to do some measuring and work out what exactly you need.


6. Fuel pumps, what kind of specs or should I just get a new standard B230FT/FK pump? Any ideas for the in-tank pump?

Your existing pumps should be up to the job, if you do change them then consider coverting to a single in-tank pump like the later LH systems have.



Phew! Lots to think about, i'll pop my conversion list up here when I have another spare hour. I'm off virtual gazebo shopping, cheers!

Quite a few questions there Tom, i've added my replies in between to save me typing but also spotted this on YouTube earlier. Haven't watched it but i think that might give you some ideas for your internal camper conversion.

https://youtu.be/b-tJV66UavI

You could make it bigger or smaller or add fold out brackets with clip-on legs so converts to a table after cooking etc.................

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by TomSaintJames

Hello fellow volvo folks, I jave been doing lots of Hearse related planning if not any actual progress with it

The first plan was to requisition the conservatory for doing the Penta engine investigations, but now that we have cleared and organised it that isnlt going to happen. So the old pond at the bottom of the garden has been cleared and sorted (it was full of stuff destined for the tip and bonfire), there is space for an engine and a gazebo, so that is the next plan.

In other news, I have been purchasing more and more bits from the HPT car that 360beast is breaking so that we can get on with the LH2.4+Turbo+2.5L conversion, even if only in the planning stages so far. I have a few questions that I hope the volvo sages can answer

1. Is the LH2.4 turbo instrument cluster (with the turbo pressure gauge!) likely to be compatible with the fuel sendre unit in the Hearse? (1988 2.0 K-Jet B200E).

It's unlikely to be compatible with the wiring loom in the hearse Tom, many things were changed with the multiplug pin-outs in 1990, 1991, 1992 and i believe one more change before production ended in 1998/9. Nothing to stop you retrofitting the turbo boost gugae into your binnacle though as it's purely pressure operated via a hose.



2. Distributor, my car has a head mounted dizzy with hall sensor for the tacho. Can I use this dizzy but just ignore/remove the hall sensor, or do I need one from a Turbo/LH2.4 car?

Errrr, do you mean your car has a block mounted dizzy with Hall Effect? The LH2.4 uses a sensor in the bellhousing and a matching flywheel/driveplate to trigger it.

If you have a head mounted dizzy with HE sensor (yours being 1988 was just after the changeover and being a conversion, possible it was an earlier car with block mounted dizzy) then as long as you use the LH loom and CPS in the bellhousing, you can use the mechanical part of the existing dizzy, just connect the HT side of things as normal.



3. Alternator, I imagine the B200E has a lower output unit than a proper EFI LH2.4 car? As long as this doesn't cause big issues I think it can wait, as the spend is ever increasing just now

Why not get the higher output alternator from the LH car? I'm sure Luke would be accommodating on price and combined postage.



4. What is a Vacuum booster valve, is this the plastic part that comes off of the brake servo with a pipe tot he inlet manifold (Brake booster check valve)? I got some of my info from turbo bricks so there are some American terms that I don't understand.

Yes. The pitfalls of using "foreign" sites sadly. I've learned many of the USA words for car related stuff (and a few others - American couple in my local Co-op recently, wife couldn't find something, her glasses i think and husband tells her it/they are in her "fanny-pack". Looked it up online and discovered it's what we call a "bum bag". One US meaning of "bum" is what we call a vagrant/tramp but that seems to vary with context) so am happy to help you translate.



5. For now, until we can get a proper custom stainless exhaust, will the turbo downpipe fit with the existing 2.0 front pipe? (B200E, no cat etc). Not idal I know.


You can buy pipe reducers if necessary Tom :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/All-Size-...e/132373971777

Picked at random to show the idea, you'll have to do some measuring and work out what exactly you need.


6. Fuel pumps, what kind of specs or should I just get a new standard B230FT/FK pump? Any ideas for the in-tank pump?

Your existing pumps should be up to the job, if you do change them then consider coverting to a single in-tank pump like the later LH systems have.



Phew! Lots to think about, i'll pop my conversion list up here when I have another spare hour. I'm off virtual gazebo shopping, cheers!

Quite a few questions there Tom, i've added my replies in between to save me typing but also spotted this on YouTube earlier. Haven't watched it but i think that might give you some ideas for your internal camper conversion.

https://youtu.be/b-tJV66UavI

You could make it bigger or smaller or add fold out brackets with clip-on legs so converts to a table after cooking etc.................

[TomSaintJames]

Wow, thanks Dave! Lots to think on there.

With the instrument cluster, I need a different speedometer and tachometer right? Can these also be retrofitted to the carcass of the current cluster? Perhaps it would be simpler to change the plugs/pins for the turbo LH2.4 cluster?

Glad about the distributor! One less spend. The Hearses dizzy is head mounted, so I can swap that over to the Penta which has a block mounted dizzy. Hmm, hold up - I haven't thought about this, which dizzy to use now that we're using the Penta head... At least there is a choice, the head mounted is the cheaper/non-porsche type? That may be the deciding factor!

Cheers.

[360beast]

The idle control valve is linked to the speed sensor in the diff so it needs to see that the car is stationary to set the idle. To use the 940 axle you will need to use the 940 gauge cluster, I'm giving you the complete wiring loom so you will have the plugs for the 940 gauges

[TomSaintJames]

Solved, cheers Luke!

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by TomSaintJames

Wow, thanks Dave! Lots to think on there.

With the instrument cluster, I need a different speedometer and tachometer right? Can these also be retrofitted to the carcass of the current cluster? Perhaps it would be simpler to change the plugs/pins for the turbo LH2.4 cluster?

Glad about the distributor! One less spend. The Hearses dizzy is head mounted, so I can swap that over to the Penta which has a block mounted dizzy. Hmm, hold up - I haven't thought about this, which dizzy to use now that we're using the Penta head... At least there is a choice, the head mounted is the cheaper/non-porsche type? That may be the deciding factor!

Cheers.

Which instruments have you got at the moment Tom?





First or second type?

Originally Posted by 360beast

The idle control valve is linked to the speed sensor in the diff so it needs to see that the car is stationary to set the idle. To use the 940 axle you will need to use the 940 gauge cluster, I'm giving you the complete wiring loom so you will have the plugs for the 940 gauges

It's easy enough to pick up a speed signal from the earlier 740 instruments Luke but what bothers me is whether Tom is changing the back axle or not? Also whether it has ABS on or not?

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by TomSaintJames

Glad about the distributor! One less spend. The Hearses dizzy is head mounted, so I can swap that over to the Penta which has a block mounted dizzy. Hmm, hold up - I haven't thought about this, which dizzy to use now that we're using the Penta head... At least there is a choice, the head mounted is the cheaper/non-porsche type? That may be the deciding factor!

Cheers.

If you're using the LH injection system and the full loom, you'll have to use the head mounted (Porsche type) dizzy instead of the Ford type block mounted dizzy. No real choice in it sadly. The only thing that you may find is the Penta head doesn't have a drive on the back of the came for the dizzy but i suspect it will.

[TomSaintJames]

Thanks for the advice back in January Dave! Whether the penta cam has the right drived for dizzy is kind of immaterial as I will probably look into upgrading the cam. The 2.0 probably has an A or V cam and the Penta liekly a V cam. Looking at a table of lift and duration I found somewhere it looks like the K is the best standard performance cam on balance? (compatible with head mounted dizzy)

A - 10.5 (lift) / 254 (duration)
V - 11.37 / 245.4
K - 11.95 / 252.8

It's been a little while since I last did anything with the hearse really, but it is time to get moving with it. We have clearred the frotn porch out and i've commandeered (with permission, of course!) it as an engine building space - should be just big enough! SO more on that later.

Otherwise the 2.0 and AW70 are being removed tomorrow by a well known professional Volvo tinkerer on here and the rear axle is being swapped for one with a better ratio, it currently has the 3.91 and IIRC the replacement is a 3.54 - so that should help a bit with high speed cruising.
To speed this along and make best use of labour, I have been attempting to remove some of the bits on the rear axle - especially the handbrake cables and mechanisms, i've not been into this area on the Hearse before so it is good to see what is going on under here.



The discs look fine although rusty, there is no wear lip but the pads could do with replacing - one side is quite worn compared to the other, and I don't really want to be messing around in here in the near future! We'll see if the shoes and springs need replacing when I get that far. Read on for why...

Result? Bugger all! I spent most of yesterday, from 10am to just before 5pm trying to remove the wheel adaptor plate nuts. The sum of my efforts was to remove the wheels and one out of 10 adaptor plate nuts...



The nuts are quite shallow so that they fit inside the adaptor, which is the first issue - I had to be very careful to not slip the socket and end up rounding the nuts off. I tried heat, tapping the nuts with a hammer, more heat, lots of WD40, more heat and tapping and WD40. I tried 19mm and 3/4" hex sockets which BOTH broke at the hex points and also tried a 12 point 19mm socket.

Broken!


By this point i'd resigned myself to drilling them out, but either I wasn't doing it correctly or my drill isn't up to the job because after 5 solid minutes of drilling i'd made perhaps a hole of a centimeters depth. I didn't have patience for that 10 times! I was using a new bolt extractor drill bit and was dousing with washing up liquid and water mixture to help with the heat.

After getting thoroughly dejected with my progress I consulted said volvo tinkerer and the internet, in the end I ordered a twist socket grip set - hopefully that'll get the buggers out! I went with amazon so we could get next day prime delivery, the local shops (toolstation/screwfix/B&Q etc) had these tools, but not 19mm or 3/4" that I needed. The update this morning said they are guaranteed to be delivered before 9pm today, so I may be removing brake parts either in the dark tonight or at 7am tomorrow morning

The last hour of work yesterday was by far the most productive, I got most of the loom and some of the other connections off of the engine, i'll finish that this morning and then see about removing as much of the handbrake stuff as I can with the brakes still attached. I may even start disassembling the penta, which i'm quite looking forward to.

[loki_the_glt]

Originally Posted by TomSaintJames

After getting thoroughly dejected with my progress I consulted said volvo tinkerer and the internet, in the end I ordered a twist socket grip set - hopefully that'll get the buggers out! I went with amazon so we could get next day prime delivery, the local shops (toolstation/screwfix/B&Q etc) had these tools, but not 19mm or 3/4" that I needed. The update this morning said they are guaranteed to be delivered before 9pm today, so I may be removing brake parts either in the dark tonight or at 7am tomorrow morning

Out of curiosity - how much did the twist socket set cost? It could be the answer to a question I haven't yet asked!