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How to Replace the Hazard Light Switch

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Old Dec 30th, 2011, 19:19   #1
gatos
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Default How to Replace the Hazard Light Switch

Here we go with another guide requested. It is for a small part of the car, but it seems that many people have been having problems with their Hazard Light Switch.

There are 2 ways to remove the Hazard Light Switch. I have followed both ways and posted photos so you can choose whichever you think is easier to follow


First of all remove the fascia form the heater control panel. I use my Leatherman blade to prise it off from one side and then the other.


Undo all four screws


The Heater Control Unit is also secured by this clip on that slot. To remove the Heater Control Unit you need to push it in slightly and it will prise off easily. Pay attention when you put everything back together as you must make sure you secure it back the correct way.


There are two connectors plugged in the Heater Control Unit. Best way to remove it is to push it in diagonally and unclip the first connector.


You can then remove the Heater Control Unit partially outwards and unplug the second connector


Now here is where there are two ways to do it. I personally use the first method, as I am used to it and I know where and what the parts look like.


Method 1

Put your hands in there and try to feel the two clips securing the Hazard Light Switch. See the next two images to get an idea of what you should be feeling for.


You need to push the two clips gently inwards and push the Hazard Light Switch inwards


A close up:


You will need to wiggle out the switch so it is in this position. Then you can easily unclip it and replace it with your new switch.



Method 2


This is the method I used the very first time I had to replace my Hazard Light Switch. It is a lot more trickier in my opinion and you face a small risk of breaking something, or losing small bits.

You will need to remove both vents. Again, I used my trusted Leatherman to prise off each vent.



This is a bit tricky too if it is the first time you have ever tried it. You need to push those clips downwards. See also next photo. The best way I found out is to do the right side one first and pull the fascia outwards and then do the left hand side one




Then you just pull out the fascia outwards and very easily disconnect the Hazard Light Switch and replace it with the new one


JOB DONE


And here are some close up images of the switch. If you want to take it apart to try to repair it, you need to push in this clip and do the same on the other side




This small metal bit is the one moving from left to right locking and unlocking the Hazard Light Switch. The tip of it moves in some grooves which makes it move from left to right. I have tried in the past to repair an old Hazard Light Switch I had but had no luck whatsoever with it.
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Last edited by gatos; Dec 30th, 2011 at 19:45.
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Old Dec 30th, 2011, 19:27   #2
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Yet another superb guide. Since this seems to be a common fault this will be very helpful for those wanting to fix it ( like me )

Thanks Gatos for taking the time again to do the guide
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Old Dec 30th, 2011, 19:40   #3
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I tested the 4 hazard light switches I had and 3 of them were fine. The 4th one was stuck and that is the one I took apart.

One of them is yours Volvo2002, and I need to find out who was the other person who asked me for one.
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Old Dec 30th, 2011, 19:44   #4
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Thanks CAT MAN
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Old Dec 30th, 2011, 19:47   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gatos View Post
I tested the 4 hazard light switches I had and 3 of them were fine. The 4th one was stuck and that is the one I took apart.

One of them is yours Volvo2002, and I need to find out who was the other person who asked me for one.
Thanks Alex. Look forward to doing this job myself. I'm starting to enjoy doing my own work now. The Gearknob was a good start
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Old Dec 30th, 2011, 19:53   #6
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hey alex , i notice your toolkit seems to use the leatherman a lot .....im happy to send you over a small flat bladed screwdriver !!!!
cheers from NZ
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Old Dec 30th, 2011, 20:01   #7
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I like it

It seems those plastic or metal things, moving left and right, are common weak points for generally all push-switches.
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Old Dec 30th, 2011, 20:06   #8
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hey alex , i notice your toolkit seems to use the leatherman a lot .....im happy to send you over a small flat bladed screwdriver !!!!
cheers from NZ
lol. Indeed. A lot of people buying, buy it as an expensive gadget that they will hardly ever use. I keep it on me most of the time and keep using it all the time. I have flat blade screw drivers, but the leatherman blade is quite thin, wide and strong and that is why I use it a lot. It's nickname is "butcher", as the blade closed on me once and cut my finger down to the bone....

Since then, I have learned how to use it a lot more carefully
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Old Dec 31st, 2011, 20:44   #9
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Another clever guide for the Articles section, Gatos
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Old Jan 7th, 2012, 20:23   #10
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Fitted today and working perfectly. Used Method 1

Unfortunately I found this job a bit of an annoyance. My hands aren't small so I found inserting the new switch in and connecting the plug onto the back a bloody nightmare. After much determination I got the plug in and the new switch fitted. The old switch appears to engage whenever it feels like it.

The guide was very well explained and I rate it highly. Just don't be a idiot like me and damage the three ventilation knobs in the process
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