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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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B20 build

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Old Dec 13th, 2015, 10:40   #11
tdz840
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Originally Posted by Amazonjulian View Post
Head flow is up 9%. We've taken a mm off the head and going for 10:1. The overbore is to 2130. Balanced bottom end. I'm sticking with SUs and have rebushed and rejetted them, steel timing gears and the sensible modern crank seal arrangement. I'm already running a 123 distributor and will go for an electric cooling fan. I am replacing the oil pump because the old one was only just within tolerances and it seemed a false economy not to. I'm running a Simons exhaust and standard twin down pipe manifold because at the end of the day they're pretty good. Getting to the nice bit now- screwing it all together
I wish I had gone larger on my overbore.
i took the decision to go forged Pistons from Ross and they only had +30". However I recently thought I had an issue and pulled the engine to check.
On strip down everything was in excellent order and the Pistons had no sign of detonation ( they are ceramic coated as well) so I'm confident all the bits are working comfortably together
Did you go for the 123Tune model and if so what curve are you starting with?
With the side drafts it's so difficult to hear detonation and I have a fear of running too advanced. I'm thinking of investing in some type of detonation device( or headphones) anyone have any recommendations?
I fitted a Mellings pump on advice from Phil Singher. They don't have an outlet in the UK but they do have a representative. I contacted him and he obtained a pump for me. Much higher quality, nice and chunky. I have a feeling it may be the HD version on the SKANDIX site.
I think I've seen your car at Goodwood as I have exactly the same pic in my files that I took when I was down there for the breakfast meeting!
Nice car
Russ
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Old Dec 13th, 2015, 10:48   #12
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Are you running option 1 Russ?
Yes I am Mitch. Appears this is a common issue with the big yank cars. Go on eBay or look on Summit/Jegs and there are loads of options.
I was looking at a aftermarket tank and there are a number of options, alloy, chromed or black. All under £100 delivered. I didn't want to commit without understanding if it could be resolved. It can ( in my case) with the reservoir. Most of the comments regarding pumps is that they are noisy and unreliable.
Loads of pumps on eBay but most are engine driven
I reckon your KG6 or the KG10 will be fine with a reservoir
This is the part I used (181930829101) and I made him an offer of a tenner as I'm a tight fisted bar steward😄
Russ
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Old Dec 13th, 2015, 10:50   #13
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I'll see if I can get hold of more of the figures. They are all on my pals computer. I'm using KD needles.
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Old Dec 13th, 2015, 10:51   #14
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It's probably going to be a month or two until it's all fitted in the car due to time commitments but will certainly going to a RR near me to make sure it's set up as well as it can be
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Old Dec 13th, 2015, 10:52   #15
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Originally Posted by tdz840 View Post
Yes I am Mitch. Appears this is a common issue with the big yank cars. Go on eBay or look on Summit/Jegs and there are loads of options.
I was looking at a aftermarket tank and there are a number of options, alloy, chromed or black. All under £100 delivered. I didn't want to commit without understanding if it could be resolved. It can ( in my case) with the reservoir. Most of the comments regarding pumps is that they are noisy and unreliable.
Loads of pumps on eBay but most are engine driven
I reckon your KG6 or the KG10 will be fine with a reservoir
This is the part I used (181930829101) and I made him an offer of a tenner as I'm a tight fisted bar steward😄
Russ
Thanks Russ. The Mot man noted the brakes last time and I've done quite a bit of work to them since then but didn't know about the cam issue so will definitely do the upgrade. Thanks for posting up the info.
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Old Dec 13th, 2015, 10:57   #16
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Hi all

Just to add my pennies worth one of my old school engine rebuilders use to back in the day and still swears by it , apparently there is one floor to these engines when WORKING on them in this fashion is they overheat internally and to get round this issue is delete the water pump and fit a MGB water pump direct into the engine as it has a better flow rate and he reckons it helps out a lot and these engines can go faster longer with ease and that person has been doing these engines since the 70s I myself have no experience in this field so can only go on what he says .

Hope it makes sense and can be of some use to anyone

Kind regards
Robert.w
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Last edited by 123GT-AMAZON; Dec 13th, 2015 at 11:03.
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Old Dec 13th, 2015, 10:58   #17
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That sounds like a very good improvement to me. Good to have someone with a flowbench working on the head for you. Russ (tdz840) would be able to offer some advice as well I'm sure as he's done a lot of work on his engine and researched into the engines so maybe worth dropping him a PM.
Rather than CR it's quench you need to get right.
This should be under 0.035" and I didn't mention it as amazonjulian is at the assembly stage. It would need decking as work on the head doesn't really affect quench.
My car ended up with >12:1 CR and I get no det even after a hot run labouring up a hill( which suggests I can advance further).
On a separate matter what head gasket are you using? I have several Elring HG at 0.8mm thick, helps your quench calcs. I ordered too many and have one spare (£25)
Russ
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Old Dec 13th, 2015, 11:07   #18
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Originally Posted by 123GT-AMAZON View Post
Hi all

Just to add my pennies worth one of my old school engine rebuilders use to back in the day and still swears by it , apparently there is one floor to these engines when WORKING on them in this fashion is they overheat internally and to get round this issue is delete the water pump and fit a MGB water pump direct into the head as it has a better flow rate and he reckons it helps out a lot and these engines can go faster longer with ease and that person has been doing these engines since the 70s I myself have no experience in this field so can only go on what he says .

Hope it makes sense and can be of some use to anyone

Kind regards
Robert.w
Robert, I agree the water pump design is pants, the impeller especially so. My day job is flow rate and the construction of the impeller and the casing leaves a lot to be desired. Especially as the water needs to do a 90deg turn on discharge.
Rather than fit a mgb direct to head (and issues with belt alignment) I would go electrical with the advantage you can add a timer so the water keeps circulating after a hot run.
Parasitic losses, sealing issues and poor design all eliminated in one.
I haven't as my temperature stays on track all the time, oil temp barely gets to 80deg.
If you do select a pump try and select a cast impeller rather than the cheap pressed steel ones. You will definitely get cavitation with those and cavitation is bad as it aerates the water and reduces cooling where an air bubble forms the interface.
Russ
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Old Dec 13th, 2015, 11:15   #19
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Thanks Russ. The Mot man noted the brakes last time and I've done quite a bit of work to them since then but didn't know about the cam issue so will definitely do the upgrade. Thanks for posting up the info.
Mitch
Rig up a vacuum gauge and measure you vacuum. If you have SUs you can t into this. You need a gauge full swing to at least 25"HG. I have one you can borrow?
Then get a cheap tank and this valve (191551792377) and plumb the vac gauge between the servo and this new valve.
If you go my (cheapass) route it's fairly unobtrusive. Alternatively this looks shinier(&#128516
231213110465
Russ
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Old Dec 13th, 2015, 11:20   #20
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It's probably going to be a month or two until it's all fitted in the car due to time commitments but will certainly going to a RR near me to make sure it's set up as well as it can be
Steyning is fairly close to me which RR would you use?
I have a 'relatively' good relationship with these (http://www.jkm.org.uk/performance/dyno.htm), if we can get a few more we can get trade rates. Or do you have a better recommendation?
Russ
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