Easiest +12v ignition feed for Emerald ECU?

[tower]

Really would appreciate some electrical help from someone.
I have a Volvo 760 B280E Auto. It did have LH 2.2 K-Jet with a distributor but Ive fitted aftermarket ecu (emerald) with a ford v6 coil pack so it is running the ignition and injection. The ecu has a constant +12v ignition wire and a ignition sensing +12v feed also, and you can wire them both together to only be powered once you switch on the ignition.

I wired these 2 wires where I thought was good (spliced onto the red/green wire by the injector relay under the bonnet). I had the coil pack powered by the blue wire which originally went into the coil. The engine starts and runs great like this and I can adjust the timing and the fuelling no problems.

PROBLEM IS: Key-off and the engine keeps running until the fuel pressure goes so low that the engine stalls. E.g the in-place volvo ecu shuts down the fuel pumps but it seems the emeral controlled injectors keep firing and/or the ford coil pack keeps the plugs sparking.

IF I know which colour wire I can splice off so it all shuts down at key off then I think all be well. Suggestions and feedback appreciated! I have a haynes Volvo manual with wiring diagram but Ive clearly guessed wrong and dont fancy guessing a second time.

[Laird Scooby]

Use the blue/red switched ignition feed from the original coil connection for both connections, it sounds like there's a back feed somewhere.

Also, correct me if i'm wrong but the Emerald is meant to replace the LH-Jetronic ECU, not run alongside it?

Alternatively, give Emerald a call :

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/

FYI, K-Jetronic doesn't have an ECU, it's a mechanical injection system.

[Clan]

Originally Posted by tower

Really would appreciate some electrical help from someone.
I have a Volvo 760 B280E Auto. It did have LH 2.2 K-Jet with a distributor but Ive fitted aftermarket ecu (emerald) with a ford v6 coil pack so it is running the ignition and injection. The ecu has a constant +12v ignition wire and a ignition sensing +12v feed also, and you can wire them both together to only be powered once you switch on the ignition.

I wired these 2 wires where I thought was good (spliced onto the red/green wire by the injector relay under the bonnet). I had the coil pack powered by the blue wire which originally went into the coil. The engine starts and runs great like this and I can adjust the timing and the fuelling no problems.

PROBLEM IS: Key-off and the engine keeps running until the fuel pressure goes so low that the engine stalls. E.g the in-place volvo ecu shuts down the fuel pumps but it seems the emeral controlled injectors keep firing and/or the ford coil pack keeps the plugs sparking.

IF I know which colour wire I can splice off so it all shuts down at key off then I think all be well. Suggestions and feedback appreciated! I have a haynes Volvo manual with wiring diagram but Ive clearly guessed wrong and dont fancy guessing a second time.

You must have a constant 12v feed and an Ignition feed with any Engine ECU , you have a computer there with memory . The Emerald is not wired up according to the instructions .. ( I know , I have an Emerald K6 )

[tower]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Use the blue/red switched ignition feed from the original coil connection for both connections, it sounds like there's a back feed somewhere.

Also, correct me if i'm wrong but the Emerald is meant to replace the LH-Jetronic ECU, not run alongside it?

Alternatively, give Emerald a call :

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/

FYI, K-Jetronic doesn't have an ECU, it's a mechanical injection system.

My 760 has an air flow meter, a throttle position sensor, and an idle air control valve, and a temperature sensor. The ecu in the drivers footwell controls the injectors depending the inputs from those. I have a Bosch LH 2.2 controlled system, not a mechanical one... maybe they arent called K Jet so apologies if that's wrong and I misled anyone.

Also regarding wiring you dont need a constant 12v feed to the emerald (only certain features require a constant feed e.g resetting the stepper motor to a default position at "key off". The emerald manual clearly states you can wire both ignition 12v and the "constant" both to the switch 12v ignition in many applications. The problem is finding a true feed to detect ingition off without getting right into the steering column where the ignition barrel is.. but I might have to bite the bullet me thinks.

Since posting my original post I have changed both feeds to a constant, but fitted a manual switch to the 12v ignition wire which basically acts as an instant kill switch - the volvos relays, which are still connected to the volvo ecu, shuts down the fuel pumps etc instantly this way, then I can turn the ignition off and key out... but the wife wont drive it with my weird system in place!!! haha

Thanks for the help, its just nice to hear other people views and get the grey matter going sometimes.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by tower

My 760 has an air flow meter, a throttle position sensor, and an idle air control valve, and a temperature sensor. The ecu in the drivers footwell controls the injectors depending the inputs from those. I have a Bosch LH 2.2 controlled system, not a mechanical one... maybe they arent called K Jet so apologies if that's wrong and I misled anyone.

That's an LH-Jetronic 2.2 system system, the LH part being from the German for Air Mass Hot-wire Anemometer which is something along the lines of "Luftmasse Hitzdraht" as opposed to "Kontinuierlich" or Continuous Jetronic which was a bit of a misnomer as there were no electronic bits in the K-Jet system.

This page on Wikipedia sets out the different types and basic differences :

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jetronic

To further confuse matters, there is a KE-Jetronic which is the basic mechanical continuous injection with Electronic Lambda mixture control.

I wasn't meaning to sound picky but with so many different types, many of which have been fitted to Volvos over the years, trying to help someone when they seem to have two different types of system is a bit tricky!

[aardvarkash10]

Originally Posted by tower

Since posting my original post I have changed both feeds to a constant, but fitted a manual switch to the 12v ignition wire which basically acts as an instant kill switch - the volvos relays, which are still connected to the volvo ecu, shuts down the fuel pumps etc instantly this way, then I can turn the ignition off and key out... but the wife wont drive it with my weird system in place!!! haha

You could just put an ignition-switched relay in place of your manual switch, then its all automatic and your wife will love you.

But only on Saturday night.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by aardvarkash10

You could just put an ignition-switched relay in place of your manual switch, then its all automatic and your wife will love you.

But only on Saturday night.

That's no good Ash - he'll be down the pub!

[tower]

Originally Posted by aardvarkash10

You could just put an ignition-switched relay in place of your manual switch, then its all automatic and your wife will love you.

But only on Saturday night.

So if you could help me locate a suitable wire that I can activate that relay with then I would be most grateful! You see I cant find one is my point.

Also the tacho wont work and the alternator isnt being instructed to charge the battery... but thats another matter entirely.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by tower

So if you could help me locate a suitable wire that I can activate that relay with then I would be most grateful! You see I cant find one is my point.

Also the tacho wont work and the alternator isnt being instructed to charge the battery... but thats another matter entirely.

The blue/red wire on the ignition coil should do it.

Check your fuses - the tacho and if i remember rightly the warning lights in the instrument pack share a fuse - if that fuse has blown then the tacho won't work and the alternator won't get the field current via the charge warning light to start it charging.

[barkster1971]

The one to the ignition amplifier works (green on the end iirc).