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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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V40 2.0t auto reviews/opinions pleaseViews : 2773 Replies : 52Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 26th, 2017, 06:27 | #11 |
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Location: Chadderton, Oldham
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That looks like a mixture of rust and aluminium corrosion to me. That'll happen if it's not had any anti-freeze in it.
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Nov 26th, 2017, 07:58 | #12 |
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Last Online: Oct 22nd, 2019 15:49
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Location: Strängnäs, Sweden
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Hi John, thanks for the reply.
Yes, we have 2 bridges, one large one small. The small one is a pain as I have to cross it for work everyday. It is too small, too old and because it's a swinging bridge, it breaks down all the time. In the summer it is supposed to open every 30 minutes to let small boats past, but sometimes it fails to close properly so then ruins everyone's days. It was built in the 30's though so it's well overdue a replacement of some kind. The car I bought for real peanuts. My 1.9d took me over here from England and it has served me unbelievably well. It will serve the next owner just as well. I service it with all genuine Volvo parts, every year etc etc. But. Tax on un-dpf'd diesels here is insane. Im paying 3x as much as I would for our V70 in tax, more so than the new v40 which is petrol. It's about £600 a year in tax. The petrols are £150/200. And considering that I only drive about 5/10 km a day, the diesel isnt a great idea to keep. So yes... I worked out that next year if I kept the diesel it would cost me £1000 with tax, tyres and service. If I bought a petrol car with average/decent mpg figures, I could spend up to £2000 and still save money... Provided i sold the diesel for about £400/500. So in theory I have a fair bit of money to play with for repairing it, but I didn't account for how much this COULD turn out to be... It also seems that no one wants to buy my diesel (because it's a right hand drive). Not even the scrap yards want to see it! |
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Nov 26th, 2017, 08:06 | #13 |
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Last Online: Oct 22nd, 2019 15:49
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Location: Strängnäs, Sweden
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Nov 27th, 2017, 11:01 | #14 |
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Last Online: Oct 22nd, 2019 15:49
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Location: Strängnäs, Sweden
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Ok, here's a new one. The water system out of the way, that seems to be one thing... Now another.
When parking the car at home today, whether in forward or reverse, the car would judder as if it was trying to pull away in the gear. It was very odd. Then all of a sudden the engine light started flashing. I have checked the gearbox oil, that's fine, engine oil is fine, water level fine, power steering fluid was low but now topped up. Has anyone got any ideas??? I must add that probably relevant, when driving it away this morning, it sounded a bit whiney in the gearbox. Hence why I checked the oil level... |
Nov 27th, 2017, 11:24 | #15 |
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Last Online: May 2nd, 2018 08:14
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Location: DownSouth
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What happens when you are stationary and rev it up in idle ??
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2003 V40 1.9TD Mods: Scratches, bent bumpers, raised REAR mats & internal mud guards. SHELL ULTRA 5/40 & LIQUI MOLY CERATEC. Everyone should DYOR (Do Your Own Research) |
Nov 27th, 2017, 12:58 | #16 |
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Last Online: Oct 22nd, 2019 15:49
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Location: Strängnäs, Sweden
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I have to say the running felt a little lumpy but it could have just been me. In park it doesn't try to jump or bite at all. In the gears it bites and tries to jump.
I decided to take it back to the dealer I bought it from and see if they will take it back.... Tonight. A little worried if it'll make it back there, although it's only 4/5 km away I don't mind driving a car that's jumpy or has a flashing engine light if it's back to the dealer... BUT mind sitting behind the wheel of a car that's dangerous to others around. Will see how it goes |
Nov 27th, 2017, 13:44 | #17 |
VOC Member since 1986
Last Online: Today 22:02
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Location: Leicestershire
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Pleased about the coolant, but have to admit that the gearbox sounds a little worrying. It may be the reason why it was with the dealer in the first place, and also why he was so eager to sell it on to you.
What basis did you purchase it on? If it was as a roadworthy, usable car then the Swedish equivalent of the Sale of Goods Act should apply and you may have a case for it to be made 'fit for purpose' or, alternatively, a refund. If, on the other hand, it was the Swedish equivalent of 'spares or repairs', what I think they call a 'projeckt', he might not be as receptive. Good luck, and let us know how you get on. Regards, John.
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Nov 27th, 2017, 21:21 | #18 |
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Last Online: Oct 22nd, 2019 15:49
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Ok, well I spoke with my partners dad as he has bought a few cars from the dealership I bought it from, and very many cars in general as well as fixing. He thought it best to return it, so I met him at the dealer after work but when he tried the car, no problems. The engine light was on but we couldn't say why and to be honest, all the problems that I had before seemed to dissappear. At one point when he was testing it the gearbox did start to jump a bit but it was gone as quickly as it came so we decided not to pursue a refund/return. Plus, the fact is I bought it for peanuts, a few hundred pounds. Sure, there's the laws go say it should have been roadworthy etc, but sometimes I guess you just have to be honest with yourself and not kid around. I bought the car for the cost of a set of used winter and summer wheels... And a little extra perhaps. You get what you pay for.
In a related matter. I believe my experience of the gearbox whining was the fact there was barely a drop of steering fluid inside. I topped it up straight after I found out but I hope I just confused a struggling steering pump with the gearbox. Gearbox fluid is perfectly fine. Slight engine oil leak although oil level doesn't seem to be dropping fast, but I guess I'll look into the possibility of it being the (what seems to be common) turbo feed pipe seal... I'll give it another few days or week. I can't run 2 v40s and a V70 so at the end of this saga, one of the 2 will have to go. Sadly I think it will have to be the diesel... |
Nov 29th, 2017, 13:47 | #19 |
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Last Online: Oct 22nd, 2019 15:49
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Location: Strängnäs, Sweden
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Midweek update...
Engine oil level is dropping faster than I'd like. Haven't needed to top up yet but will do before tomorrow. I think the problem is the oil return pipe, but I can't see it to be sure. I've ordered the seals anyway because they were cheap enough if it wasn't them. Have bought oil, fuel and air filter, all genuine, Shell Ultra oil and new spark plugs and cables too. Not cheap.. BUT not unusually expensive either. Water has dropped a little but that could be due to normal circumstances after a drain/refill. Water is still blue but a little cloudy. Doesn't seem to be getting worse and no oil.in the water. Engine light hasn't come on since last time but considering the codes I read out, and the continuance of occasional "jumping", I thought it best to replace the plugs and cables as they are probably original. Discovered a possible steering fluid leak, keeping eye on it. |
Nov 29th, 2017, 13:48 | #20 |
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Last Online: Oct 22nd, 2019 15:49
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Location: Strängnäs, Sweden
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**** can someone link me to the page where someone wrote out how to change the oil return pipe seal etc? There were pictures and part numbers... BUT for the life of me I can't find it anymore...
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