PV444 dome light blues

[blueosprey90]

Regarding complaining about the engine sounding like "a guy in the back room throwing stuff around" ...aren't you a bit quick about complaining about your "purchase of opportunity"...who knows when valves were adjusted last time...

I think I need to start a Facebook Group called "Optimistic Car Buyers Anonymous"

No, after hauling the carcass home from Michigan, the first thing I attempted to do was to tune up my "purchase of opportunity". I sent off to the Netherlands for points and condenser, but didn't wait for them to arrive. Worked over the old points aggressively with a points file, reset valve lash and timing, new plugs and then balanced and leaned out the carbs.

I had a hard time with the timing, ultimately concluding that the distributor drive is probably in backwards. Add to that the knackered timing marks on the flywheel made for loads of fun.

But it starts easily and runs pretty well once warmed up.

Thanks for the pointers on the electrical. That is one of several areas where my knowledge base is quite weak.

Regarding the front indicator light, my problem could be in the switch. I had to "rebuild" it because one of the terminals on the switch broke off. I couldn't come up with a copper rivet, so I used an aluminium one to reattach the terminal. I was dubious, but figured I'd give it a try. The sliding connector inside of the switch might not be making good contact in the full headlight position. Under the circumstances, everything is suspect.

[blueosprey90]

Arcturius asked me to post a photo of the dome light fixture. Not sure of his purpose, but I added a 5 Euro note for perspective.





That ball bearing in the center is what was missing. Feeble design, me thinks.



And a 1950's garage also showed up with the images.

[arcturus]

Originally Posted by blueosprey90

I think I need to start a Facebook Group called "Optimistic Car Buyers Anonymous"

No, after hauling the carcass home from Michigan, the first thing I attempted to do was to tune up my "purchase of opportunity". I sent off to the Netherlands for points and condenser, but didn't wait for them to arrive. Worked over the old points aggressively with a points file, reset valve lash and timing, new plugs and then balanced and leaned out the carbs.

I had a hard time with the timing, ultimately concluding that the distributor drive is probably in backwards. Add to that the knackered timing marks on the flywheel made for loads of fun.
Pic' of original 1960 dome light

But it starts easily and runs pretty well once warmed up.

Thanks for the pointers on the electrical. That is one of several areas where my knowledge base is quite weak.

Regarding the front indicator light, my problem could be in the switch. I had to "rebuild" it because one of the terminals on the switch broke off. I couldn't come up with a copper rivet, so I used an aluminium one to reattach the terminal. I was dubious, but figured I'd give it a try. The sliding connector inside of the switch might not be making good contact in the full headlight position. Under the circumstances, everything is suspect.

I was looking for the switch and connectors. Your file was so big , I could hardly find everything. Could you please send smaller files next time, From what I could make out the car looks quite tidy.
BTW if it's a B16 the dizy rotates clockwise, if it's a B18 anticlockwise.
Could you please send some more pic's, interior and engine bay. Also, the VIN number
Re park light.As Ron indicated,the problem will probably be your grounding.Check and clean all connections. It won't be at the switch.

[blueosprey90]

Sorry about the pictures. I wanted to edit the post to delete them, but I don't see that I have any edit button.

I though about reporting my post to the moderators, but since I'm new here, I held off thinking that perhaps the system might reduce the size automatically at some point.

It looks like your switch may have the same problem as mine did. Wired like that, does your switch work? Both of those wires seemed to be hot from my investigations.

I concluded that my switch was missing a "ball bearing" connector that fits into the end of the switch lever. I had to drill out the pivot rivet on the lever, find a ball bearing that fit and then use a new hollow rivet to put everything back together. From China one can order up copper ball bearings by the thousands, but I didn't want to leave my credit card. I salvaged my steel bearing from a drawer slide. I think the bearing was 3 mm, but was a little too big. I have spares and can re-measure if you would like. The switch lever had a tiny spring inside that I eliminated. Since the 3 mm seemed too large, I sanded down the business end of the switch lever a bit.

Seems like a poor switch design, and perhaps gravity will defeat my repair.

[arcturus]

My switch works fine. This is the correct way it should be.

[Ron Kwas]

bo90;

The Ball Bearing is typically lost because of inadequate lubrication of the Ball as the lever tries to move it between detented positions, and there is enough room for the Ball to pop out of place as the lever is forced. Replacing the Ball without adding lube can easily lead to a repeat of the situation! [Lesson to be learned here is: Don't force 60 year old mechanical assemblies...a little feeling and lube will go a long way!]

Note also that there are significant differences in your picture (and function!) vs. that of Arcturus...in your picture, Green wire is at left (control from Door Contact) AND a Black wire on right (Chassis connection) at Switch.




In arcturus' picture, the single Green wire at right terminal of switch is again the control chassis connection from Door Sw, but the left contact has no wire (I expect that left contact is connected to chassis by the fixture mounting, so doesn't need a separate wire). Be aware of this when troubleshooting!

Good Hunting, and Holiday Greets from just up the road!

[mocambique-amazone]

Hello Ron, the switch with the Euro note can't work. I'ver never seen two hot wires at the dome light.
If you compare your drawing and the pic, this light from blueospray90 (€ in New Milford????): His light has the ground on both sides of the bulb! if you switch to the right (ball to the left) and door open, and will shine if you switch to the left, ball to the right.

Georges (Arcturus) will work only with door open and not permanently when switch to the right, ball to the left.
Strange.
good night, regards Kay

[Derek UK]

The spring is an essential part of the switch as it allows the ball to find it's own position under light pressure. It also helps give the switch its "click". I don't see much future for the switch if you don't use one. That assumes that you want to make use of the 3 positions. Off (centre position)/on continuously/door operated.

[arcturus]

Originally Posted by mocambique-amazone

Hello Ron, the switch with the Euro note can't work. I'ver never seen two hot wires at the dome light.
If you compare your drawing and the pic, this light from blueospray90 (€ in New Milford????): His light has the ground on both sides of the bulb! if you switch to the right (ball to the left) and door open, and will shine if you switch to the left, ball to the right.

Georges (Arcturus) will work only with door open and not permanently when switch to the right, ball to the left.
Strange.
good night, regards Kay

For what it's worth, mine works in all the positions. On Door and roof switch. I can't remember when I last needed it!

[grahamwatson]

Originally Posted by Ron Kwas

bo90;

In arcturus' picture, the single Green wire at right terminal of switch is again the control chassis connection from Door Sw, but the left contact has no wire (I expect that left contact is connected to chassis by the fixture mounting, so doesn't need a separate wire). Be aware of this when troubleshooting!

Good Hunting, and Holiday Greets from just up the road!

Strange, but true!



[That was supposed to be a pic of the rear of the switch - unlikely as it may seem, there is indeed a connection from the left contact to the earthed switch bracket.]