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b16 engine overhaul

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Old Nov 13th, 2019, 16:05   #11
arcturus
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So,more progress as you can see. No broken rings Derek but big end bearings shot. Have a mechanic friend coming round sometime to do some measuring. I suppose in the meantime if I can get some rings off without breaking I can slide them down bores and check gaping.
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Old Nov 13th, 2019, 17:50   #12
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Piston ring gap. Inserted a ring halfway bore and measured gap. 2.mm! should be 0.25-0.50mm. I'm assuming that rings wear before cylinder bore,is that correct? Will do some proper measurements in the next day or two
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Old Nov 14th, 2019, 10:48   #13
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Now I want to look at the main bearings.Has anyone done this on B16?

Initial signs not looking too good
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Last edited by arcturus; Nov 14th, 2019 at 12:46. Reason: checked bearing
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Old Nov 14th, 2019, 14:09   #14
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No, but what's the problem?

Just put a little screwdriver in that notch between the bearing and the cap and they should pop right out. Same on the rod side.

They are definitely worn and need replacing. Not sure what metal is/was floating around in the engine, or if the striations are simply from dirt due to lack of oil changes. I would want to clean the oil galleries for sure. Your crank journals may be damaged, although the bearings are softer.

The wear/damage would impact oil pressure and wouldn't relate to poor compression or misfire, etc. in my understanding.

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Old Nov 14th, 2019, 14:50   #15
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The problem will be getting the upper half of the bearing out. The manual makes it look easy but not so sure. Doesn't say much about getting the upper back in. I can see that I will need to lift the crank shaft out with all that implies.
Hope to get the journals checked for round later.
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Old Nov 14th, 2019, 15:10   #16
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Ok, so you're talking about the main, not rod bearings.

I think that "pin" in the diagram simply pushes the main bearing around. Note the direction of travel vis a vis the notch on the end of the bearing (right, lower).

You can probably use one of the bearing shells out of the cap as a pusher to get the upper bearing shell moving around and out. Then when both are about halfway, one in, one out, you should be able to grab them and they should be loose enough to remove by hand. Use oil to assist in the movement, and spin the crank as necessary to assist in the turning.

Just my 2 cents. Never did this on a Volvo engine.
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Old Nov 14th, 2019, 16:54   #17
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If that fails, that pin is probably seated in an (the) oil feed hole in the crankshaft. A small bolt or screw would probably suffice, but I'd try to use something plastic to avoid scratching anything.
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Old Nov 14th, 2019, 17:39   #18
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I'm not sure where the pin goes but it's used when swapping out the shells without dropping out the crank, engine still in car. You don't need to do that as you have the engine on the stand. What is stopping you just lifting the crank out? There is a possibility that you may have to get the mains journals ground. The shell wear is very bad compared to the big ends. Crank will need measuring. Being only a 3 bearing crank the shells take more of a beating than the 5 bearings in the B18/20. Does help them to rev though. Vaguely I seem to remember that I replaced the rear main bearing seal with the engine in the car, tapping the old top one out with the new.
Your shells will just tap out from the opposite side to the small locating tab/notch. Likely they will just pop out rather than slide round. To fit you squeeze them in with your thumb and they click into place.
By the time you read this they will likely be out anyway.
Pleased to be wrong about the rings. Depending on the measurements you might get away without a rebore etc, just new rings. An oil control set might, just might, be all you need. Second best to a rebore. Bores will need to be honed I expect. Ring gap is bad but recheck that the ring straight across the bore.

Last edited by Derek UK; Nov 14th, 2019 at 17:44. Reason: Addition
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Old Nov 14th, 2019, 21:24   #19
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Don't really want to take crank out if I can help it as it involves removing timing gears and I don't have appropriate pullers. I don't suppose that you would know what the original crank journal dimensions are? Although the engine has had a re bore at some time I don't know about crank regrind. BTW I use a digital caliper for measurements.Would this be accurate enough to measure out off round of Journals?
Edit. Found measurements.
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Old Nov 15th, 2019, 16:17   #20
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Decided t bite the bullet and for re bore and new pistons.I think that I caught this engine gust in time. Rear crank shaft bearing shell

https://www.ms-motorservice.com/file...ngs_861097.pdf

Very useful site
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