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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Water ingress via heater boxViews : 4284 Replies : 37Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Dec 2nd, 2019, 13:41 | #11 |
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Many thanks gentlemen for the great diagrams and photos. As natedog lives very nearby, I think I'll go and check out his car whilst the heater is disassembled. It could be a relatively simple fix if the drain plug is blocked or perished, but it might be a good time to check the heater matrix and paint the heater housing at the same. Thanks again.
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Dec 2nd, 2019, 17:40 | #12 |
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I took some photos and I hope you find them useful. Ron has asked if he can use these on his website https://www.sw-em.com/. Go visit for a lot of useful info, all written in a way most will understand.
Last edited by Derek UK; Dec 2nd, 2019 at 17:57. |
Dec 2nd, 2019, 17:48 | #15 |
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Heater box 4.
Matrix sponge is shown with measurements. Anyone who is desperate for one can get one from me for £4 posted. Most of that is postage. At this point only ask if you have the need NOW, not for putting on the shelf. Last edited by Derek UK; Dec 2nd, 2019 at 18:07. |
Dec 2nd, 2019, 17:56 | #16 |
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Heater box 5
This is the top retainer bolt for the heater box. You have to pop off the intake grill above it to get to the nut. Prise off the grill with a plastic trim tool or a plastic spoon handle with a piece of thin card protecting the paint. This one very scruffy and I will replace it. A cheap and easy source for the conical rubber washers is the floor of any tyre shop. pick up a few of the ends from valves that have been cut off. The one shown is a small bore one, There is also one with a bigger bore Both can come in handy for other jobs. |
The Following User Says Thank You to Derek UK For This Useful Post: |
Dec 2nd, 2019, 19:49 | #17 |
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Derek;
...in the first pix you posted, the rust stains certainly suggest there was a standing pool in the bottom of the enclosure due to a failure to drain (probably due to biomass blocking the path). Compliments on the Heater Enclosure restoration and additional pictures...I started putting my notes together, but with that great selection of pix showing details, I'll definitely have to expand my notes, so this will take a bit more time. Thanks as always for the kind remarks and reference! Cheers |
Dec 3rd, 2019, 00:05 | #18 |
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Wow....these are really helpful photos. Better than a Haynes manual in fact. Many thanks to both of you gents for posting them. An enormous help for me and to others thinking of rebuilding their own heater unit.....
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Dec 4th, 2019, 13:41 | #19 |
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Thanks much, Derek -- these photos will be most useful when I knock this off my To-Do list.
Did you use gloss or satin paint? Not sure what's factory spec. |
Dec 4th, 2019, 18:03 | #20 |
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I used UK market Simonize Tough Black which is a bit below full gloss. It is somewhat close to Eastwoods Underhood Black. The factory finish is poor with little or no primer. That's why the end up with the typical speckled rust coming through the black. The early grey ones were much better. The whole box was a bought out item by the factory as were the very similar ones supplied to Saab at the time for their 95/96 cars. If you like bling go to gloss. If getting a paint supplier to make up the paint in aerosols you could ask them to use low gloss thinners. That knocks a bit of shine off. Satin black is too close to matt to give a nice finish on this item. You can use what you like on the inside as long as it keeps the rust at bay.
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