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Water ingress via heater box

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Old Dec 5th, 2019, 12:59   #21
csm22
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Thanks, Derek... good info to have.

Aside from heat resistance, any particular details to consider in choosing the foam wrap for the heater core? Think the original was varnished cardboard or something similar.
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Old Dec 5th, 2019, 15:57   #22
Ron Kwas
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CSM;

I would use some of the low durometer silicon based foam sheet material common in aerospace...these won't deteriorate like the commercial foams originally used. Derek may have more specific product recommendations.

I have collected several of Derek's excellent pictures in a tech note here: https://www.sw-em.com/Water_on_the_Floor_Notes.htm

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Old Dec 6th, 2019, 01:01   #23
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The original that I took to pieces had a foam wrap. Typically with age it was falling to pieces but not to bad as it had been hidden in the dark since new. If you look at the pictures you'll see what I used. I had a roll of what is called foam backed scrim I bought it to replace the foam that goes between the vinyl and hardboard on the doors. Unfortunately it was too thick. My guess was wrong and I never did get round to doing the doors before the car was sold. The new boards I'd made got sold on. The foam I bought was 6mm from here.
https://www.martrim.co.uk/car-trimmi...scrim-foam.php You can see from the pictures how it fits. I have a big roll of it and that is why I offered it for anyone who was doing this job.
You should have no problem finding it in the USA. Scrim foam is what it says. foam with a layer of scrim, a sort of muslin bonded to one side to give it a bit more substance and stop it stretching and tearing.
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Old Dec 6th, 2019, 01:24   #24
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Ron, you might like to mention in your article that a build up of water in the air intake which flows into the heater can be caused by the stubby drain pipe, which is part of the heater box, getting blocked. This outlet has a hose on it which goes down the side of the heater to the side of the coil in the engine compartment. It often goes a bit flat causing a restriction which means it's more prone to blockage. Don't rely on the mesh to keep all of the dirt out of the intake.
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Old Dec 6th, 2019, 12:59   #25
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Thanks, Ron and Derek... that info should help in narrowing down the search for the right material.


Cheers,

Chris
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Old Dec 7th, 2019, 14:33   #26
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Derek;

...right...good idea...I'll have to refamiliarize myself with location and how it ties into the Heater Box...but its a bit too cold at the moment...you don't have any nice pix handy do you...?

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Old Dec 7th, 2019, 15:42   #27
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Is the pic on message #24 not enough? It's the only one I had on hand.
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Old Dec 9th, 2019, 10:09   #28
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Derek;

That picture certainly shows the drain tube, but is a bit busy...I think I will include third pic of posting 21, which shows tube it connects to in Air Box well...

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Old Dec 9th, 2019, 18:14   #29
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Derek;

I have rewritten notes to include the two part drainage design, and invite your review...see: https://www.sw-em.com/Water_on_the_F...ference%20Info

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Old Dec 10th, 2019, 01:24   #30
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Condition 2 - The drain hose from the side of the heater Part # 668807 is a black thin walled plastic tube which just pushes on to the pipe coming from the heater. It is a black tube, never clear unless an owner has used a tube like that. Black is original but of course any sort of pipe will work. It can find itself stuck to the pipe but it isn't normally stuck on with a mastic, just an easy snug fit. It is retained by a screwed on clip just below the sloped part of the bulkhead/firewall. If the clamp is a bit flat it can also flatten the tube. This in turn can cause a trap for dirt and debris. (I've found a blockage here but nowhere else.) Except for the tube being potentially stuck to the pipe it is easily removed for checking. It will normally just pull out from behind the clip as all that does is direct the tube downwards. After checking the hose give the short heater box pipe a poke around with a bit of stiff wire to check any blockage there.There is no need to remove the fan motor but you can go in check for leaves if you wish. If doing so it's a good time to drip some thin oil onto the bearing areas and allow it to soak in.

Ron, you can use or abuse any of that text as you wish. Yes the picture is a bit scruffy but it was the only one I had and was for interest only. Maybe someone can supply a pic of their neat and tidy one?
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