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Handbrake failed mot.

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Old Feb 24th, 2018, 22:44   #21
colinbos
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Originally Posted by DBAS View Post
thank you colinbos,i am going to Southport Auto Center on monday.but would it be possible to see your man instead.its 6 clicks and nothing.checked old mot's and shoes and pads done in 2012.with 47,000 on clock.now 83,000.
Ill pm you my mobile number.

Southport Auto Centre is very good, and if my man wasn't around... I would use them too.
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Old Feb 24th, 2018, 23:24   #22
DBAS
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Originally Posted by colinbos View Post
Ill pm you my mobile number.

Southport Auto Centre is very good, and if my man wasn't around... I would use them too.
your a legend sir.got your number.
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Old Mar 5th, 2018, 13:16   #23
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UPDATE...unfortunately colinbos man couldn't fit me in and couldn't make soutport auto centre so ended up at local garage.gulp.i was only scared due to forum advice that a Volvo specialist is needed and the garage where mot was done wouldn't entertain me.told them it failed at 1% efficiency.they said we'll sort it.2 days later got car back.nervously pulled release and wollop,a heavy drop sound.i pressed footbrake and it was still 6 clicks.drove for retest and 20 mins later mechanic came and said it failed.gutted.he said it was better but based on weight it was a no.then.....he said he put it on his own scales and measured against kerb weight and BOOM it's a pass.i have just ordered adjusters and with help from forum I will fit and adjust cable on passenger side of gear.thank you all so much for your replys and I will post photos of an idiots attempt at adjusting.thanks again.
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Old Mar 5th, 2018, 16:43   #24
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[QUOTE=DBAS;2376897told them it failed at 1% efficiency.they said we'll sort it.2 days later got car back.nervously pulled release and wollop,a heavy drop sound.[/QUOTE]

Had mine done by the local Volvo dealer today after a failled MOT. Took 15min of work including adjusting 3 times, test driving, checking it held forwards and backwards on a steep gradient. Very easy for the mechanic to adjust with the correct special Volvo tool, and the experience of what is "right" and "enough grip" without being "too much" and causing binding.

Read my story:
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...=279043&page=2
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Old Mar 5th, 2018, 19:46   #25
five alive
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Curious to know,How are these being tested,rolling road or road test
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Old Mar 5th, 2018, 23:04   #26
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Many MOT stations in the UK will test drive the car with a decelerometer with it being a 4x4 but there is no reason why it shouldn’t be tested on the normal brake rollers.
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Old Mar 6th, 2018, 14:16   #27
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Originally Posted by galloot633 View Post
Search the forum for rear brake manual adjusters , available for around 20 quid , fit them and never have a parking brake problem again
Dave

Also, any 1995 to 2000 Volvo should have these at the breakers.

For those who are installing them for the first time, remember that the adjuster needs to be loose when placing back the drum, then adjusted through a stud hole with a flat screw driver until they slightly touch the drum - spinning the drum should feel a slight friction. One of the shoes springs will sit over the adjusting wheel. On my S60 these adjusters improved the brake power to the point of keeping the car from rolling back on a incline, however they still have no power of slowing down the car while rolling at slow speeds.
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Old Mar 6th, 2018, 15:16   #28
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For those who prefer, genuine Volvo parts are available new from your dealer to carry out the modification - You need two of part number 30793438 and 30793437.
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Old Mar 6th, 2018, 18:24   #29
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Curious to know,How are these being tested,rolling road or road test
My Swiss MOT station tested on a hill of 18% gradient.

In Switzerland the regulations state that the park brake must hold the vehicle on a 18% gradient hill, and that's exactly what the Testing Station as out on their test road.
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Old Jul 31st, 2018, 21:11   #30
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Hi everyone,

I'm resurrecting this thread because my XC90 failed its UK MOT this morning for the parking brake being inoperative. I had replaced the foot pedal mechanism about two months ago with a good used one because the one on my car was rusted to pieces after being sat in water under the floor carpet for heaven knows how long thanks to Volvo's inability to construct a leak-free premium luxury vehicle. So I had replaced the foot pedal mechanism, adjusted it and it worked okay over numerous test-drives. I thought it would fail due to it not holding well enough - because it's an XC90, so what can one expect - and was prepared to adjust the mechanism in that event - I even left off the centre console side carpet covering the dreaded adjustment mechanism to make it easier for me to adjust it today if needs be. But it turns out that today's failure was more serious. When the MOT tester activated the foot pedal on the parking brake - full strength - the cable snapped right where it joins the metal end loop which hooks onto the pedal mechanism. I thought the cable had merely unhooked itself from the pedal mechanism which it did a few times when I was installing the new foot pedal mechanism, but alas, I found out the real reason when I got it home and removed the front carpet AGAIN to - presumably - just reattach the cable...

As I'm off to Austria for a two week camping holiday in the Volvo on Saturday (hopefully) I've ordered a new complete cable (Bosch from Autodoc, Germany) which goes from the foot pedal mechanism, around the centre console against the bulkhead and connects to the two other cables that go to the rear wheels. This new cable includes the adjustment mechanism that runs alongside the UK passenger side centre console.

I'm up against the clock here as I need to fit and adjust the new cable and get it re-tested before we leave on Saturday at about 5:30am! It should arrive by Thursday. So my query is, does anyone on here know how to fit this front single cable section of an XC90's parking brake? I presume it needs to be fed around the front of the centre console from driver's to passenger's side but are there any things to watch out for or clips/ cable holders to detach and reattach or special techniques to know etc. etc.

Considering all the front-end work I've done on the car since late April (replaced steering rack, replaced parking brake pedal mechanism, new control arm bushes, new bearings, new discs, pads and ball-joints, subframe inserts and dealt with a sheared off subframe bolt, as well doing a steering fluid/ brake fluid/engine oil service and cured the infernal water leak) I can't believe a little cable is going to scupper our long-planned family holiday! So I'd REALLY appreciate any pointers as I'm really worried that I won't be able to get it sorted before departure.

Thanks in advance,

Aidan Collingwood
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