Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > 140/164 Series General > 140/164 Series Sales

Notices

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

jacking point failure

Views : 1297

Replies : 8

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Aug 6th, 2017, 19:01   #1
Shaggy33
Junior Member
 

Last Online: Jan 26th, 2018 08:21
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Worcester
Default jacking point failure

to say i'm concerned with what i've just found is an understatement. went to jack my car up earlier to inspect the front discs and pads and the jacking point collapsed. upon further inspection of the foot well i discover a loose metal plate running down the sill, what is this for?!!!
i'm increasing worried about the rust on this car, some parts are what you'd expect e.g. below tailgate behind bumper but this discovery has got me really worried...!
Any advice as to how i go about rectifying it will be gratefully received, see pics




Shaggy33 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Aug 6th, 2017, 19:15   #2
jeff t
VOC Member
 
jeff t's Avatar
 

Last Online: Jul 27th, 2019 20:17
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: belmont, durham
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaggy33 View Post
to say i'm concerned with what i've just found is an understatement. went to jack my car up earlier to inspect the front discs and pads and the jacking point collapsed. upon further inspection of the foot well i discover a loose metal plate running down the sill, what is this for?!!!
i'm increasing worried about the rust on this car, some parts are what you'd expect e.g. below tailgate behind bumper but this discovery has got me really worried...!
Any advice as to how i go about rectifying it will be gratefully received, see pics




The loose plate is Volvo's way of making a flat level floor, imagine the shape
The floor would be if not there.
They left it loose because the rear wiring harness runs through.
jeff t is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Aug 6th, 2017, 19:42   #3
Shaggy33
Junior Member
 

Last Online: Jan 26th, 2018 08:21
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Worcester
Default Jacking point failure

Firstly I must apologise as I posted this in the wrong section! It's meant to be in the 200 series section (my car is 1989 240)...
Thanks fro info on the plate. is the repair of the jacking point difficult to do? I'd have to get a welder to do it as that's not my bag!
Shaggy33 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Aug 6th, 2017, 20:25   #4
Triple-S
How Old?
 

Last Online: May 31st, 2021 13:28
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: redhill
Default

As Geoff says, that plate hides lots of wires BUT its the Volvo way of directing warm air to the feet of rear-seat passengers. Also of course it dries out the area condensation will settle if you either have a leak or like the car hot if frosty outside.
However, that hole which you seem to have removed the plug from is one of several deliberate ones along the floor sides - what they call tooling holes I believe. The proper jacking strengthenings are the smaller discs on the top-hat section outrigger a few inches along from your first photo. A genuine jack will engage on those so the cars side can be lifted safely without it falling off the jack. Personally I don't use them (except when miles from home with a puncture) - I use a trolley jack on the rear axle or front lower spring mountings plus an axle stand to be doubly sure as I don't want to risk getting under a car without.
OK re wrong section you wanted for your query, but it is applicable to the 164 model too, as that's what I run for fun.

P
Triple-S is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to Triple-S For This Useful Post:
Old Aug 6th, 2017, 20:41   #5
Shaggy33
Junior Member
 

Last Online: Jan 26th, 2018 08:21
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Worcester
Default

Very imformative and thank you too! I feel a bit silly now thinking I'd just punched through a jacking point but I just looked for a flat area a short distance behind the door hinge which is where I thought the point was! I see now the other point which suits the standard jack!
Due to my stupid error I managed to distort the metal around the plug but I can sort that easy enough!
Also,found this rot underneath, again hope not to difficult to put right and not an mot failure....!
Shaggy33 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Aug 6th, 2017, 22:43   #6
mocambique-amazone
Master Member
 

Last Online: Jan 24th, 2022 18:08
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: small village in the north of Germany
Default

like Paul wrote this are the tool holes. If have one of the tools, it looks strange. And this holes are to run out the car after the cathodic bath potection system too. Never use the flat spot in post 5. go under the frame rails in the front , ore under the jacking points (the are prone to rust out) and under the differential in the rear if you own a 140-164-240-740 and 940..
take care about the rust at post 5, it will be no prob at the mot in this state. Even remove the plastic plugs at the inner sill and clean the sill from dust and debris with a hoover.
good luck Kay
mocambique-amazone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Aug 6th, 2017, 23:20   #7
Triple-S
How Old?
 

Last Online: May 31st, 2021 13:28
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: redhill
Default

I second that, Kay: that rusting could be a slight concern - depends on your MoT tester. On my 740 day-car a narrow strip under a front footwell was considered a fail until welded up, and a friend had her tester thrust a screwdriver up through rust like your floor on her MX5 and fail it accordingly. It all seems to depend on the aggressiveness of the man on the day - if its cold, wet and he isn't happy he could obviously be affected by that, despite the rules..... Mind you, I'd look at getting it repaired or replaced before too long, even with a current ticket.

P
Triple-S is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Aug 6th, 2017, 23:27   #8
Shaggy33
Junior Member
 

Last Online: Jan 26th, 2018 08:21
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Worcester
Default

Thanks guys, again great info. Yes I'll see about getting this sorted and may well get them to look at other rust spots, namely rear panel behind rear bumper!
Shaggy33 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Aug 18th, 2017, 23:45   #9
john h
VOC Member
 

Last Online: Jan 19th, 2023 19:52
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Huddersfield
Default

The rust you have there is on the outrigger. A typical rust area, but your car is better than most. It's not a highly complex repair, but make absolutely sure that all rust is cut out first. Welding metal over the top of rust makes it worse.

Regards, John
__________________
XX

john h is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 20:09.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.