swap fuel injection to carburettor

Can I replace the fuel injection system on 1989 360GLT with the inlet manifold and carburettor from 1989 GLE (GLE has died) Or would there be complications with this idea? Reason: the carburettor according to the book will do about 5 MPG more. Thank you for any thoughts on this item.

[pettaw]

Erm, I suppose its possible, but all the fuel pump underneath the car etc would have to be replaced with a manual? one I think. Why would you want to anyway, unless your injection system is giving you problems. the books are for ideal cars driven under ideal conditions. The injection will give you more power/performance and a much smoother ride.

If you're happy with the running of the car I would leave it well alone. If you've got probs with the injection, then post and we'll try to help.

Andy

I`d agree with Andy on this one - it seems like a lot of work for not much benefit.

A reduction in fuel consumption of 5mpg could be far more easily achieved by kicking all the junk out of the boot and driving with a lighter right foot.

Fuel injection is generally a Good Thing in terms of reliability and despite being a little bit "modern" for the Luddites among us (myself included!)is something I would like to hang onto.

Will Plummer

I agree with the previous posts, don't do it.

Its not the carb that gives more MPG, injections are more efficient. Its the milder cam shaft and different inition settings. Diff ratio might be different too.

You can change the system over but its alot more complicated than you think, I've used an injection head B200E (without injection CAM shaft) on a B200K, and am converting a B200K to B200E.

1. You need to prise out the right core plug on the head, and remove a blanking screw to allow the water to flow round the heated manifold.

2. You need electrics for fuel cut off and preheater.

3. You need fuel pump, pressure reg, choke controls and accel cable.

4. you need different diameter pipes, although you may be able to fashion adaptors.

5. You need to locate the return feed to the top of the tank not the bottom as in the injection, or change the tank (remove gearbox and drive shaft)

6. You need your head examined :-), carbs don't work when cornering hard, they also take ages to pull the fuel up when left standing for any length of time, injections start on the button.

The book MPG figures are rubbish, 360's are not economical on petrol but very economical on repairs and maintenance and fun. Make sure the engine in good serviced and drive gentle for maximum economy.

Hi all thanks for the advice. We have a f reg 360 GLE which has done about 152k and i spent about 4 whole days replacing the head gasket (did a lot of cleaning as well including the carb ha ha) Unfortunately it's still puffing out steam and using water. So i wanted a replacement car; a GLE, but a good one is rare. Then I saw a good GLT for sale and figured it would be expensive to run (5mpg less than the GLE) and naively figured i could swop the fuel injection for the carb. We'll see how it goes. I bought the one for sale at "Masters" in Durham with 44.5k. It looks like it came straight from the show room, the paint is in immaculate condition and the engine bay is spotless. However, it's very different to drive from the GLE. The GLE even now puffing steam is a lot more 'guttsy', I have to rev the GLT hard for it to go fast. Is this to do with the different cam i wonder? The engine is smoother on the GLT but seems to hesitate, ie the revs dont pick up too fast. I checked the spark plugs air filter leads and distributor all good. Probably needs a tune up. Now there's a mystery.
Regards

[pettaw]

I'm surprised that the carb car would be gutsier that the injection one. It all points to probs with the injection system. Firstly make sure its got some nice clean engine oil in it + Volvo oil filter. Won't make much difference to performance, but at least the engine will last.

I would bet that all the injectors, throttle body, air meters etc are all gummed up with gubbins. Strip the entire injection system down and give it a good clean. Be careful with the Air Mass Meter, very sensitive, clean it gently only.

Check the spray pattern of the injectors. I rigged up a system using a pressure brake bleeder and a bench power supply to gently trigger the injectors open. I found mine were seriously drippy and squirty rather than the good atomisation you'd expect. Ended up replacing all four + cold start which was leaking, but spraying well. Expensive

Then reassemble and check the tuning, CO idle etc. I would then add something like Forte Gas Treatment and give an 'Italian' tune, ie: give it a good thrashing and see how it runs then. I wouldn't do any thrashing about with it until you've verified that all is well with the injection otherwise you might damage it.

You might also verify that the exhaust is in good order and flowing freely. Sometimes replacement non Volvo exhausts can have a stifling effect on the engine. Particularly when they put one on voiced for a 1.4

Hope that helps

Should be food for thought anyway.

Andy

Not sure what year F is, but sounds like 89 (N. Ireland doesn't use the letter system). Pre 87/88 (depending on model) are high compression giving a more gutsy low end torque, its very significant I won't drive a low compression 360, but you do need 98 octane petrol.

Low comPression GLT's are quick enough if reved, as long as they have all the right bits and are in good tune. Not much goes wrong - Oh you must change the aux fuse box to an inline type (inj pump v-important for reliablility)

Agree with Peter about the exhaust, one GLT I had was really slow until I removed the 'straight' aftermarket exhaust and replaced with an old U bend Volvo type. Immediate power increase, I figure it was a 1.4/1.7 exhaust.

An immaculate 360 is rare, can we see it? how much did you pay. Drool drool.

You better get it rust proofed and look after it, otherwise we'll never forgive you!

:-)