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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Difficult getting into 1st and reverse. 5th jumps out!!Views : 3700 Replies : 23Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Feb 21st, 2010, 12:52 | #11 |
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Hi 2000s40,
Had this problem with my 2.0l V40, it was jumping out of fifth on overrun, I'd read of this problem and so investigated. As Baffler says, take nearside road wheel off and the plastic shield, however this is where I found a difference, I couldn't get the cover off because it fouled on the lower edge of the inner wing, so I had to take the air box off, support the engine from underneath, and then take the through bolt out of the nearside upper engine mount. I then had to slacken the lower cross member so that I could lower the engine/gearbox enough to get the cover off and access the loose nut. Mine only had less than one full turn of thread left before it would have dropped off and disaster. There is a large "O" ring seal that seals the cover to the box, I re-used mine and it hasn't leaked. I didn't have to drain the Gear oil either, I had it jacked up rather high on the nearside, so the oil had run to the other side of the box. I did lose a cup full that was resting in the cover itself. Mine might have been low on gear oil though because when i did a top up after it took a lot more than was spilt, and yes, I did level out the car before topping up, so if you're in any doubt, drain the box before starting. Recommend looking up Kilou's post on here aswell, good luck with it, knowing what I found, I wouldn't risk driving it until you've checked it out. Carl Last edited by Spaceman Spiff; Feb 21st, 2010 at 12:57. |
Feb 21st, 2010, 12:59 | #12 |
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Here's Kilou's thread on how to tighten the nut.
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Liam... '96 854 TDI SE, '99 V70 2.5D S, '05 C70 2.0T Collection, '05 S80 2.0T SE, '15 V70 D4 SE Lux Nav. |
Feb 21st, 2010, 17:53 | #13 | ||
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Thanks to both of you for the reply and link. I will have a go at this tomorrow!
Perhaps a silly question, but If I was to jack it up high and directly undo the 5th carter holding a bucket underneath, could that be a quicker and easier method rather than draining it all out first? I'd rather top up a little bit, than replace a whole lot as the best I could find was some oil from Halfords (with the correct numbers) that they said was perfectly fine for brass syncro rings. I really wanted some Elf oil though. And are there any advantages to me doing this over a pit? Seems like I won't need to be getting under the car if it's all at the side like that (to what the thread shows). There's three things I don't understand with Kilou's how-to.. Quote:
Quote:
And secondly, is the pass. side engine mount easily visible/what torque must it be re-set to? 3rdly, what size are these nuts and bolts (inside the gb/filler bolt etc etc)? I have a 1/4 socket set, and a 1/2 (this is my torque wrench). I don't want to do all the prep to find I don't have the right tools!! Oh, and when I put the carter back on, what torque should the bolts that hold that on be? Question though, I've been going along the assumption that as it's a 2.0L V40 it is using a renault gearbox.. is there any way for me to actually know? Because if it's not a renault gearbox I could be doing all of this for nothing!! Thanks, once again, for the help Last edited by 2000S40; Feb 21st, 2010 at 18:19. Reason: Additional question |
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Feb 21st, 2010, 18:31 | #14 |
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Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
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PM me your chassis no (vin no) and ill see what it brings up on the volvo system.
The selector fork is a piece of the gearbox which moves the parts to select the right gear when you move the linkage in the car. What you need to do is move the linkage/fork to select one gear, then manually select another gear. So the box is then in two gears,so when you turn the nut, the box will lock and you can undo the nut. If you dont do this, turning the nut will turn the shaft inside the box etc. I think you would be safe putting it back together without oil until the loctite as set. You could put it back together with all the oil drained out, leave over night then refill next morning before testing. *DO NOT FORGET TO PUT THE OIL IN THOUGH* Sorry i cant be more precise with the fork etc, I have not worked on a v40 gearbox before but its similar logic to the ones I have worked on. Last edited by Jordie; Feb 21st, 2010 at 18:40. |
Feb 21st, 2010, 19:12 | #15 |
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Jordie, I still cannot PM.
I will publish the code here, then remove it.. This is what I found at the back of the engine: [Engine numbers now removed] Hopefully one of those is the correct code. Last edited by 2000S40; Feb 21st, 2010 at 20:08. |
Feb 21st, 2010, 20:00 | #16 |
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I believe its a M5P based on that VIN.
Jordie |
Feb 21st, 2010, 20:07 | #17 |
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Thanks very much Jordie,
I suppose then that everything applies and I should be going at this when I get a chance tomorrow. I very much appreciate your help! |
Feb 21st, 2010, 23:43 | #18 | |
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I'd like to thank all who have helped so far, and due to you guys I may be able to fix it! I hope I can get some answers to these last questions and I think I will be ready to go!
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Feb 22nd, 2010, 22:27 | #19 |
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Hello,
I had a go today. The nut and bolt seemed very tight (couldn't be tightened any more) and were not the same as on the picture in Kilou's how-to. There was however, almost 0 oil in the box, there were gold metallic shavings in the bottom of the carter and melted plastic on the 5th gear linkage (that V shaped thing that the how-to says to push in) with shredded chunks of plastic all over the carter and around the cogs.. So I guess my next statement is: What the heck has happened!??! [[Pictures to come]] |
Feb 23rd, 2010, 10:28 | #20 |
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Here are the pictures:
Unbolted the engine mount Removed the carter.. you can see the crap inside Carter close-up Carter off, bolts as tight as they could go. Plastic etc all over them. Close-up of the V shaped thing which had plastic melted down both sides.. My question has remained unanswered what on earth has happened?!? |
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