Suspension and bush replacement

[classicswede]

here is the patch https://chrome.google.com/webstore/d...m_source=gmail

Patch is available for Chrome and Firefox possibly others

[Stephen Edwin]

Ty. Have you got a link for the Firefox patch please?







Reminds me, Firebird is long gone now....sorry I'm just reminiscing.

.

[Stephen Edwin]

Originally Posted by Bugjam1999

I agree with what ants says above and I also have a complete set of polybushes fitted to my car- but I’m about to change the rear axle to trailing arm bushes for rubber ones.

Mid bend, when the outer wheel is under greater loading and the spring that side is compressed more than the inner one, those bushes need flex to allow the axle to rotate- if all the rear suspension bushes are poly, that ability to rotate is much reduced.

The ultimate upgrade would be spherical bearings as linked to below (read their description about why you shouldn’t have all polybushes) but those are a lot more than a set of rubber ones, so I’ll fit rubber for now.

https://www.bneshop.com/products/240...rical-bearings

Cheers

Originally Posted by classicswede

For typical driving the poly bushes are fine in the rear axle. For hard cornering at speed as Seb says the do tend to give a bit of rear wheel lift so the bearings are the best bet in that case.

With your Nivo conversion you need to consider how you use the car. If its loaded up or towing a lot then Cargo springs are the way. If not doing any of that a set of lowering springs could be an option. Dampers you might want basic B4 or for performance use GAZ adjustables or revalved Bilstein B6.
You do also need to fit a rear anti roll bar. I have a couple of used bars about if you need one

Originally Posted by Nicholas Lewin

Hi Dan

My 1991 estate has just been poly bushed, resprung (standard height - but heavy duty rears) and reshocked (GAZ adjustable at the rear)

The ride has tightened up alot and it is still bedding in. I've adjusted the GAZ strust once and may do so again, one more notch

My car is much more responsive and less wallowy than it was so certainly worth doing

Where did the kit come from? Classicswede of course. Give him a ring and I am sure he can put together a package that would suit your needs

Good luck

Nick

Bugjam you have had a wheel lifting when cornering hard with a full set of polybushes. On a related point I have heard it said now that polybushes are not [always] advised with anti roll bars, or with stiffer anti roll bars.

And clssic swede has advised a rear anti roll bar is needed with a nivo conversion. Is that also needed with polybushes? These things get confuddling....

I'm guessing this is a polybush issue not an anti roll bar issue? And I'm guessing it is a matter degree, the combination of polies and ARB being good unless one is extreme driving, and then those spherical bearings plus ARB might be better?

[classicswede]

Originally Posted by Stephen Edwin

Bugjam you have had a wheel lifting when cornering hard with a full set of polybushes. On a related point I have heard it said now that polybushes are not [always] advised with anti roll bars, or with stiffer anti roll bars. For track use the rear axle bushes are best as rose joints to allow the axle to rotate. For road use not a worry at all

And clssic swede has advised a rear anti roll bar is needed with a nivo conversion. Is that also needed with polybushes? These things get confuddling.... Yes regardless of bushes you need a anti roll bar at the rear. If you go very stiff springs then you can remove the front anti roll bar to restore the balance

I'm guessing this is a polybush issue not an anti roll bar issue? And I'm guessing it is a matter degree, the combination of polies and ARB being good unless one is extreme driving, and then those spherical bearings plus ARB might be better? That kind of sums it up

The wheel lift on a road car is not a bad thing as when you reach the limit the car slows down as the unloaded wheel lifts. The more weight you have in the car the later the point is that the wheel will lift.

The easy way to answer the question is if you drive at moderate speed or even quickly but not on teh limit poly is teh way to go. If you push the hard on the limits of grip then the bearings are going to be your best choice.

If you hardly use the car then you can choose between rubber and poly

[Bugjam1999]

Originally Posted by rustytoba

Hi All,

Sorry to hijack this thread but I was going to ask a similar question, as mine are near non existant I will need to replace my trailing arm bushes (oem), I've read a number of older posts here and on other forums regarding the matter including a number of diy press tools.

I was wondering if anyone here has replaced them and if so how long does it normally take to relace them. Perhaps a bit of a 'how longs a piece of string?' but is it a job that can be done in a day, are there any pointers to getting the job done.

Scott

I replaced all the bushes on my car on the drive – I cut out the remains of the old axle to trailing arm bushes completely and then pressed in new shells with the internal rubber already removed so I could fit polybushes. The outer shells of the existing bushes were rusted through so couldn’t be reused for the polys. Once the car was jacked up and the suspension was removed and out of the way etc I cut out the old bushes with a combination of an angle grinder and a reciprocating saw, which isn’t exactly difficult but it isn’t that easy either… probably took less than an hour a side once the suspension was out of the way, then it probably took about an hour a side to press the new shells in using a horrible combination of big washers and a piece of threaded bar etc. I’m planning to make a much better tool to press the new set of rubber bushes in over the next couple of weeks, I’ll report back on how I get on… circular saw blades may feature as part of the tool.

Better than messing about with circular saw blades I designed a pusher and a receiver piece to be machined out of a piece of 60mm diameter solid cylindrical steel bar, but unfortunately my machinist friend doesn’t think he can sneak it by the manager – things have ‘changed since the takeover’ apparently, which is a shame!

If anyone has access to a lathe and can machine a piece of 60mm bar then please let me know – I’ll supply the stock and a new bush for fitment purposes as well as postage and some beer money. This isn’t a high enough value part to justify proper machinist rates though. Wouldn’t have thought it’d take that long to make once the bar is in a lathe – under an hour certainly.

If such a tool gets made then I’d be happy to lend it out to anyone who needs it.

Cheers

[Bob Meadows]

Just done the same exercise on my 240 Volvo:~ all rear suspension bushes changed to standard, similar to the above thread you can cut through the old trailing arm bushes (large) by using a reciprocating saw fitted with a metal cutting blade- slice the bush in two places as near to the axle fittings as the saw allows- you remove a centre slice of the bush and the reaming ends can be knocked out quite easily (you can start the cuts with the angle grinder & a slim disc)
The smaller front bushes had been removed by part drilling each side with a holesaw & drilling out the remainder- the bush outer metal support can then be cut through carefully with a hacksaw and folded in to aid removal. All the other bushes 4 in total for the two arms have been removed in a similar way. Knocked/pressed back with suitable spacers/sockets.
The larger trailing arm bushes can be pulled back into place with 14mm standard threaded bar but it will be under some stress so will have to be moved during the operation to secure new threads, a piece of 1/4” flat bar drilled to take the threaded bar can also be used on top of two split tube receiving spacers -- 2” short tube on the other side- a bit fiddly to set up but it does work.
As for a time scale I spent a couple of days plus but this included cleaning the parts & waxoyling and removing the rear brake callipers for servicing/checking the hand brake shoes
Finally spraying the underside with fresh waxoyl.
Some of the bushes do seem to have a mind of their own! In terms of time etc. so allowances have to be made. All the above fitting had been taken from a redundant acrow prop with the exception of the threaded bar.
Trust It Helps.
Bob

[kenedy]

I am totally agree with Antz's ideas and suggestions.




































http://www.soran.edu.iq

[braindamage]

I used the threaded bar and end, from a spring compressor clamp, it was man enough to handle the pressure required for refitting without stripping the threads or needing repositioning.

I used an appropriate sized hole saw and selection of washers for the pulling and pushing (thanks to the person on this site who recommended that in one of their threads, can't remember who you are, sorry). It looked a complete mess but worked.

Getting mine out was a complete nightmare, over 220 thousand miles and a seeming lack of maintenance meant everything was seized beyond belief. all nuts and bolts had to be angle grinded off!

[rustytoba]

Hi All,

I know that the bush has a fat side and a thin side albeit by only about 1mm or so with the thin side to be fitted facing the wheel side of the axle, however I have noticed that on the replacement bushes I have there is a small arrow moulded into the compound.

Does anyone know if this is to face forwards (towards the front of the car) or up?

I have included a photo with the arrow at about 12 o'clock in this case.

As ever any help appreciated.

Scott

[classicswede]

Arrow should point upwards

******Correction Arrow should point down******