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V60 D3 multiple system faults, power issue?

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Old Jun 19th, 2016, 10:18   #11
Clan
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Originally Posted by Agouti View Post
You will only get voltage drop and under-reading if significant current is drawn down those same wires OR there was a wiring issue causing high resistance (volts equals current times resistance). A 1V drop between battery and accessories plug without load would be of concern.

Both multimeter and plug voltmeters are cheap so it is easy to check. Just make sure to get ones which state the accuracy.

You should be sitting at between 13. 8 and 14.2V when the car is running. Too high means the alternator regulator is bad and you will boil dry your battery (plus possible electrics issues), too low and the battery will not charge properly. It may be a little low at idle and/or immediately after starting, ideally test across a range of rpm.
The power socket doesn't go direct to the battery it goes via fuse boxes ,sometimes through 2 fuses , joints cable length etc where other loads are being drawn , the only place to monitor charging voltage accurately when you need to know it is at the battery itself . even reading out via VIDA there is nearly a 1 v difference !
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Old Jun 19th, 2016, 22:16   #12
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I extended the multimeter probes so I could drive around with a multimeter on the battery.

Driving around the multimeter and the OBD reading are both sitting around 14.45v (pretty much always between 14.2 and 14.5, but mostly 14.45). If at idle, it sometimes drops down to around 13 for a few seconds.

This is with the AC, radio and headlights running.

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Old Jun 19th, 2016, 22:28   #13
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I extended the multimeter probes so I could drive around with a multimeter on the battery.

Driving around the multimeter and the OBD reading are both sitting around 14.45v (pretty much always between 14.2 and 14.5, but mostly 14.45). If at idle, it sometimes drops down to around 13 for a few seconds.

This is with the AC, radio and headlights running.
That is pretty good then , unless it drops out for long periods when you are driving a long distance , unlikely though .
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Old Jun 19th, 2016, 22:36   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agouti View Post
You will only get voltage drop and under-reading if significant current is drawn down those same wires OR there was a wiring issue causing high resistance (volts equals current times resistance). A 1V drop between battery and accessories plug without load would be of concern.

Both multimeter and plug voltmeters are cheap so it is easy to check. Just make sure to get ones which state the accuracy.

You should be sitting at between 13. 8 and 14.2V when the car is running. Too high means the alternator regulator is bad and you will boil dry your battery (plus possible electrics issues), too low and the battery will not charge properly. It may be a little low at idle and/or immediately after starting, ideally test across a range of rpm.
Quoting bollocks on here is acceptable while belittling long term contributors is acceptable ?
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Old Jun 19th, 2016, 22:59   #15
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That is pretty good then , unless it drops out for long periods when you are driving a long distance , unlikely though .
Good to hear, the drive was only for an hour but stayed consistent throughout.

Got the car booked in at the local dealership on Friday, to check out the city safety message and upgrade the Sensus system (so I can download sat nav updates via usb) - will see what they find and report back.

Thanks for the help so far.
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Old Jun 20th, 2016, 11:15   #16
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Quoting bollocks on here is acceptable while belittling long term contributors is acceptable ?
I wasn't aware that I was doing either of these things. I apologize for causing offense, though I'm not quite sure how.
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Old Jul 4th, 2016, 14:03   #17
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The dealership couldn't find anything wrong with the car, and it has been fine since the battery change.

At the moment the prevailing theory is it was the battery, unless the issue crops up again I think I got lucky!

Thanks for all the help.
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Old Oct 18th, 2016, 15:47   #18
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OK, so the problem has persisted and still not got to the bottom of it yet. I was holding out on taking it in to Volvo until I could find a common cause for it, and hopefully yesterday I found it. Thought I'd continue to document the issue here, and hopefully Volvo can get to the bottom of it next week.

Timeline of problems to date:

May 19th - Car jet washed. Driving along, 10 minutes after car wash, power system failure message. Battery runs flat while driving, car systems begin shutting down. AA arrive, test alternator, alternator is not providing sufficient voltage.

Alternator replaced

June 10th - Driving on motorway in heavy rain. Systems start failing and error messages on dash (power steering, brakes, parking sensors, etc), reduced performance, had to pull over. AA arrive, clear a fault code to do with the alternator and car is back to normal.

June 13th - Drive car to work (6 miles) without issue. Try to start car to leave at end of day, won't start, displays same warning messages as before. Rained during day but not that much. Suspect voltage issues, post this message on the forums.

Replace battery

September 2nd - on holiday in France. Car jet washed, driven 20 minutes back to holiday rental and left on drive. Next morning, start car and reverse it closer to house for loading suitcases for return journey. Switch car off to load. Start car, dashboard lights up with warnings as before, car won't restart. Manage to start car with jump leads (coincidence?), and then drive 400 miles to calais without issue.

October 17th - car wash. Car is jet washed, driven a few metres and parked up. Car fails to start after 10 minutes. Systems failing. AA arrive, battery "seems fine". AA technician thinks it might be the immobiliser, but only as its the first message of eight. Car starts after disconnecting battery. Lots of messages, parking brake won't release. Faults cleared, car performs as normal.

TLDR:
So, the common theme, appears to be water. Hopefully that will be what the Volvo techs look for first on diagnostics.

My only other hunch, is that the voltage readings (albeit via OBD and Torque app) are always low (12.1 - 12.3) when this has happened. Normally the reading is around 12.7 when I've checked and not had issues starting the car. But the fact that this has always happened during/after a lot of water being thrown at the car seems too coincidental.

Will report back after the diagnostics on Monday, in case this ever helps anyone else.

Last edited by rbcohen; Oct 18th, 2016 at 15:49.
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Old Oct 26th, 2016, 18:12   #19
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After 2 days with the car the dealership could not find a way to re-create the problem. Car started every time no matter how much water they threw at it. Doh.

Two issues were found, that are unlikely to be related, but I will be getting fixed pronto anyway.
  1. The windscreen is not bonded properly along the top. Pretty sure this is the original windscreen, but I've not owned the car since new. This would explain the wind noise at 50mph+. One theory I have, is that after all faults are cleared, city safety fault remains. Maybe water is hitting that module if its all up there by the rear view mirror. Not sure if it could cause the issues I'm seeing though.
  2. The oil filter housing is leaking, and the oil is unfortunately dripping on to the 3 month old alternator. They suspect the alternator will need replacing, but so far it seems OK. Will get leak fixed first and then see.

Since having the car back for a few hours, and on its second start, the parking brake wouldn't release properly using the lever. I was able to get it to release by using the auto-release with the car in drive. Then driving along the parking assist service required message pops up. No water involved this time, maybe its just me!
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Old Oct 28th, 2016, 21:08   #20
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It's getting more random (or so it seems).

Starting the car, the sound system was acting up. It's as if a weird filter was applied, but guessing it's related to the issues described above. YouTube video below of what I could hear on CD, DAB or FM.

I wonder if this might help pinpoint what is effected. Perhaps it's a wiring loom that runs near/with the audio "stuff"?

+ YouTube Video
ERROR: If you can see this, then YouTube is down or you don't have Flash installed.

https://youtu.be/FYJFUalE_3I

Restarting the car fixed it. :-/
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