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1967 Volvo 122s: My first car

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Old Jul 12th, 2016, 21:24   #11
Humzah Ahmad
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Originally Posted by amazon69 View Post
Welcome to classic Volvo ownership Humzah. You'll sort the key out soon enough. Re the steering wheel, look on ebay.com and ask on here.. Edit..I see you have. Put a wanted ad on here. They are usually effective. Everyone in this community is very friendly and helpful.
Okay thank you!
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Old Jul 12th, 2016, 22:03   #12
Ron Kwas
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HA;

Turning the Key against Gorilla Spring which is likely to have resulted in Key breakage in the first place, is also likely to have returned LC to Position 3, and this is Position LC needs to be in to remove, so depress Retaining Pin remove LC...then you will have it in your hands which which to apply (or learn and practice) your most creative, non-destructive key-removal techniques...here is another one:

The tiniest partial drop of Cyano-Acrylate (or Super-)Glue to the end of a toothpick, and that applied to end Key remains...held there until it sets, key gently pulled to remove (this technique has the risk of getting the CA into the LC...if that occurs, it's probably toast and needs to be replaced! You Have Been Warned!) If you don't want to take the risc with the CA, try the guitar string trick...finally, when you have given up, take LC to a qualified locksmith and have him use his Kung-Fu to extract Key remains! Bring the extra Keys for him to check.

(Reference Link!)

Good Hunting!
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Old Jul 12th, 2016, 22:15   #13
Humzah Ahmad
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HA;

Turning the Key against Gorilla Spring which is likely to have resulted in Key breakage in the first place, is also likely to have returned LC to Position 3, and this is Position LC needs to be in to remove, so depress Retaining Pin remove LC...then you will have it in your hands which which to apply (or learn and practice) your most creative, non-destructive key-removal techniques...here is another one:

The tiniest partial drop of Cyano-Acrylate (or Super-)Glue to the end of a toothpick, and that applied to end Key remains...held there until it sets, key gently pulled to remove (this technique has the risk of getting the CA into the LC...if that occurs, it's probably toast and needs to be replaced! You Have Been Warned!) If you don't want to take the risc with the CA, try the guitar string trick...finally, when you have given up, take LC to a qualified locksmith and have him use his Kung-Fu to extract Key remains! Bring the extra Keys for him to check.

(Reference Link!)

Good Hunting!
Really didn't want to take any risks so I asked my neighbor(he's a locksmith) and he let me use his spiral key remover and I got it out in the matter of minutes!! He also said that the problem can be avoided in the future if I buy a hand filed key, but I think I rather spend my $30 on your push start kit and maybe a new ignition switch.
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Old Jul 12th, 2016, 22:18   #14
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Thank you. That's the plan, I want to keep it as orginal as possible. Hence the reason I want find a orginal steering wheel. Only thing I will have to change our the floor pans since they are rusted out.
I have an original steering wheel but you are awfully far away.
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Old Jul 12th, 2016, 22:21   #15
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I have an original steering wheel but you are awfully far away.
How much would you charge? And pictures?
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Old Jul 12th, 2016, 22:24   #16
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Default One more thing...

What is the best place to buy new, quality floor pans for not too much taking into consideration of labor costs of welding? Have to get the best parts for as cheap as possible cause I'm paying for everything myself.
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Old Jul 12th, 2016, 22:31   #17
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Floor panels are cheap, labour is not. By the time you've paid someone to do that for you, you could probably have bought a welder and associated necessities to do it yourself. As a massive added bonus, you are then empowered to be able to do any bodywork on your car in the future. It's not hard to do it yourself. Unless you've got a lot of money then I think skilling yourself up like that is the best way to keep these cars going. And your parents did want you to become more mechanically inclined..
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Old Jul 12th, 2016, 22:36   #18
Humzah Ahmad
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Floor panels are cheap, labour is not. By the time you've paid someone to do that for you, you could probably have bought a welder and associated necessities to do it yourself. As a massive added bonus, you are then empowered to be able to do any bodywork on your car in the future. It's not hard to do it yourself. Unless you've got a lot of money then I think skilling yourself up like that is the best way to keep these cars going. And your parents did want you to become more mechanically inclined..
See the problem is in Communist California the restrictions on what you can and can't do in your own garage is massive. And working in someone else's car garage is too ouch of a liability so that isn't possible
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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 01:38   #19
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Bump

Any other ideas on an ignition switch fix?
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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 02:06   #20
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Any other ideas on an ignition switch fix?
For the switch itself, there's also this option:

http://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/s...&Submit=Search

Also available from CVI (who iirc make / commissioned it) and probably also other suppliers in the USA, e.g. IPD. As far as I am aware, the only Amazon ignition keys that tend to snap are the later Nieman type - previously the lock and key were made by Assa. The replacement linked to above combines a much stronger Assa type key with a barrel assembly that looks like the Nieman type. I have one of these fitted to my car, and am very happy with it.
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