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1967 Volvo 122s: My first car

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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 02:32   #21
Humzah Ahmad
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Originally Posted by 222s View Post
For the switch itself, there's also this option:

http://www.classicvolvoparts.co.uk/s...&Submit=Search

Also available from CVI (who iirc make / commissioned it) and probably also other suppliers in the USA, e.g. IPD. As far as I am aware, the only Amazon ignition keys that tend to snap are the later Nieman type - previously the lock and key were made by Assa. The replacement linked to above combines a much stronger Assa type key with a barrel assembly that looks like the Nieman type. I have one of these fitted to my car, and am very happy with it.
Which model did you go with from the link above? And you don't use a push start button?
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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 03:26   #22
Ron Kwas
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222; Link is to Lock Cylinder, not Switch...and Tailpiece of LC engages Ign Switch mechanism.

...and I do not agree with some manufacturer's keys being weaker than others explanation, because I have studied this issue at length (see my Link) ...ALL keys will eventually break, because they are weakened as a result of Cumulative Fatigue, because they all must exert torque against the Gorilla Spring, and GS is located in Switch part of the assembly, so changing to a different manufacturer's LC and key doesn't affect the CF.

Ha; What is a spiral key remover?

A "hand filed key" is not the answer either...your locksmith neighbor does not know about the Gearbox factor and Gorilla Spring. Not using Ignition Sw Pos 4 is the only long-term answer, because it eliminates the Cumulative Fatigue.

Cheers

Last edited by Ron Kwas; Jul 13th, 2016 at 03:46.
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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 04:52   #23
Humzah Ahmad
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Originally Posted by Ron Kwas View Post
222; Link is to Lock Cylinder, not Switch...and Tailpiece of LC engages Ign Switch mechanism.

...and I do not agree with some manufacturer's keys being weaker than others explanation, because I have studied this issue at length (see my Link) ...ALL keys will eventually break, because they are weakened as a result of Cumulative Fatigue, because they all must exert torque against the Gorilla Spring, and GS is located in Switch part of the assembly, so changing to a different manufacturer's LC and key doesn't affect the CF.

Ha; What is a spiral key remover?

A "hand filed key" is not the answer either...your locksmith neighbor does not know about the Gearbox factor and Gorilla Spring. Not using Ignition Sw Pos 4 is the only long-term answer, because it eliminates the Cumulative Fatigue.

Cheers
He used this https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=...Qwg8IHA&adurl=

I emailed you by the way about the kit
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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 07:41   #24
Burdekin
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What is the best place to buy new, quality floor pans for not too much taking into consideration of labor costs of welding? Have to get the best parts for as cheap as possible cause I'm paying for everything myself.
The floor pans are actually very good, not sure who imports them in the US: http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?p...tno=1201090201
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One day I will get rid of all of the rust.
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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 12:27   #25
Derek UK
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Mike Dudek here http://www.irollmotors.com/ is less than 150 miles from you. Very good reputation and could be more or less a one stop shop for you. Maybe he has a steering wheel too.
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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 16:54   #26
Humzah Ahmad
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Mike Dudek here http://www.irollmotors.com/ is less than 150 miles from you. Very good reputation and could be more or less a one stop shop for you. Maybe he has a steering wheel too.
Thank you!!!
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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 16:55   #27
Humzah Ahmad
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What do you guys think about using this service to get rid of the rust on my car http://americanstrippingsacramento.com
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Old Jul 13th, 2016, 19:21   #28
Humzah Ahmad
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Originally Posted by Ron Kwas View Post
222; Link is to Lock Cylinder, not Switch...and Tailpiece of LC engages Ign Switch mechanism.

...and I do not agree with some manufacturer's keys being weaker than others explanation, because I have studied this issue at length (see my Link) ...ALL keys will eventually break, because they are weakened as a result of Cumulative Fatigue, because they all must exert torque against the Gorilla Spring, and GS is located in Switch part of the assembly, so changing to a different manufacturer's LC and key doesn't affect the CF.

Ha; What is a spiral key remover?

A "hand filed key" is not the answer either...your locksmith neighbor does not know about the Gearbox factor and Gorilla Spring. Not using Ignition Sw Pos 4 is the only long-term answer, because it eliminates the Cumulative Fatigue.

Cheers
Hey Ron

Just wanted to ask, what's the difference between the $23 kit and $38 kit?
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Old Jul 14th, 2016, 15:55   #29
Ron Kwas
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Forum;

I have answered Humzah's question regarding kits directly, per e-mail.

I ask that any SwEm related questions be sent directly per e-mail, as it would be inappropriate here.

Cheers
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Old Jul 14th, 2016, 18:54   #30
volvogv
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Originally Posted by Humzah Ahmad View Post
See the problem is in Communist California the restrictions on what you can and can't do in your own garage is massive. And working in someone else's car garage is too ouch of a liability so that isn't possible
Just close the door and do it anyway.

Mike
(formerly of Sacramento)
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