Amazon: New (to me) 1963 Volvo 122

[Laird Scooby]

If you open the 1/4 light Alan, is it possible to tease the seal out? If so, it should be possible to do it without resorting to the dreaded B&D methods!

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

If you open the 1/4 light Alan, is it possible to tease the seal out? If so, it should be possible to do it without resorting to the dreaded B&D methods!

Unfortunately not I think Dave. The new rubber seal has a hole in it at the bottom where the lower pivot passes through - that is the threaded stud with a spring attached in the photo. I can undo the nuts that hold that spring on, but somehow the quarterlight needs to be lifted through the hole in the old one and re-inserted into the new one. The rivetted fulcrum I circled in the fourth photo stops that happening:



It does look rather like I might have to drill that rivet out (and maybe replace it with a bold and nyloc nut).

If someone has done this job previously perhaps there is an easier way I've missed.

I'm in no rush to do this job (the existing seal works fine - it just looks a bit scruffy and I have a free new one), so I'll leave it a while and see if anyone knows an easier way.

Many thanks,

Alan

[Derek UK]

Here's a trick for doing the little rivets if you have to drill out and replace. The 1/4" spacer is a little piece of alloy tube. That allows you get the nose of the rivet gun into the groove. A low profile nut and bolt can be used for the hinge but it will never look as good as the real thing. Look up tubular rivets.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Derek UK

Here's a trick for doing the little rivets if you have to drill out and replace. The 1/4" spacer is a little piece of alloy tube. That allows you get the nose of the rivet gun into the groove. A low profile nut and bolt can be used for the hinge but it will never look as good as the real thing. Look up tubular rivets.

Many thanks.

This job is heading towards the 'if it ain't broke, don't fix it' category. The old seal is okay, I rubbed some WRAS grease into it today and it is much improved. If it ever starts letting in the weather I'll fix it then.

:-)

[Burdekin]

I think Brookhouse now stock the parts needed. Haven't checked myself but know a guy who had his rechromed and said Simon stocks all the parts needed to reassemble.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Burdekin

I think Brookhouse now stock the parts needed. Haven't checked myself but know a guy who had his rechromed and said Simon stocks all the parts needed to reassemble.

Many thanks.

I already have the new part, this one:



... the question is would I have to drill out and replace the rivets, or might there be another way. Having had a good look at the spare used quarterlight assembly I have, I've convinced myself that I'll have to drill out and replace 5 rivets. On balance I don't think that level of disassembly is justified at the moment.

:-)

Alan

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by Othen

Many thanks.

I already have the new part, this one:



... the question is would I have to drill out and replace the rivets, or might there be another way. Having had a good look at the spare used quarterlight assembly I have, I've convinced myself that I'll have to drill out and replace 5 rivets. On balance I don't think that level of disassembly is justified at the moment.

:-)

Alan

I think he sells the rivets etc not just the seal. Maybe give Brookhouse a call, Simon is very helpful.

See info in pic.

[Othen]

Originally Posted by Burdekin

I think he sells the rivets etc not just the seal. Maybe give Brookhouse a call, Simon is very helpful.

See info in pic.

Many thanks.

I absolutely agree, Simon at Brookhouse is very helpful.

The Brookhouse ad does rather confirm that 5 rivets have to be drilled out to swap the seal - which was the exam question.

If I ever do that job then I doubt very much I'd bother buying special Volvo rivets (rivets are rivets - pretty much). At the moment the seal is nowhere near bad enough to justify that level of dismantling to replace it. I only asked the question (... whether there was an easy way to remove the seal without drilling out rivets) because I had a new seal in the spares box that came with Aunt Maud.

Best wishes,

Alan

[Othen]

[Othen]

The very last job on my list for the GAM project was to have a look at the front suspension. I did that a couple of weeks ago and was pleasantly surprised to find everything was in pretty good order, but it was a little bouncy, so I decided to change just the shock absorbers.

A pair of nice, new Monroe dampers arrived in the mail last week (from Autodoc - only about £58 delivered). I had an hour free this morn, so I thought I might as well get the job out of the way.

GAM's suspension is really simple; the shock absorbers are only held on by two nuts and a bolt, they come off in about 10 minutes/side:



... the old ones looked a bit scabby, but didn't appear to be leaking. The new units came with nice new rubber bushes and fittings. There isn't much to see in a photo of a new shock absorber, but here is one anyway:



That brings the project cost to £1,278 - so it is still within budget.

:-)