Hello, Help with a V60 1.6d MY11 Please

[Cityfan1]

Hello All, I am new to this forum but I am also new to Volvo's.
Purchased a Volvo V60 MY61 with the PSA 1.6 diesel engine and it's a Manual.

When I purchased the car second hand, the previous owner must have taken the car out to get it warm as the fault didn't happen then.
I did look for the engine temp indicator but was surprised to see it doesn't have one.

Drove home approximately 200 miles. Not an issue. Have no idea what to compare it to but it did make the journey home. I only achieved 43mpg which I was expecting a lot more especially being sat at 70mph on cruise and the occasional blip to 75-80mph for an overtake. The only reason for purchase was the advertised economy and cheap road tax.

The next day when starting, the car was smoking quite a lot, white and blue, it had a horrible diesel and sulphur smell. When touching the accelerator, it is lumpy as anything. Its been anywhere between 9 and 13 degrees this past week around mid day so thought its not cold so why is this happening?

So far, Replaced all 4 Glow plugs (Bosch brand).
Replaced Glow plug controller (GSF special)
Replaced Diesel Filter (OEM Volvo)

No change

NO Engine management light on.

Ordered a new Engine coolant temp sensor (Febi - Hasn't arrived yet)
When unplugging the engine coolant temp sensor I do get approximately 7v for a few seconds on the glow plugs.
I don't think this is glow plug related at all.

I have Vida 2014d (helps with dismantling, location and part no's)
I have just ordered a mongoose cable (same functionality as dice). Hopefully this will help me find the issue.

I have unplugged the MAF but the idle isn't that bad. You could say it does become ever so slightly smoother. BUT as soon as you touch the accelerator its missing and smoking. I have read online that even when you press the accelerator with the MAF disconnected the EGR will open and it does shudder again. All of this disappears when the engine is warm. why doesn't the EGR affect the car when it's warm?

I also disconnected the 5 pin plug going to the EGR when the car was running and pressed the accelerator and it was still lumpy making me think, is it even the EGR at fault? That really threw me, up until then I thought I was getting somewhere. My friend then said that the EGR could be stuck open slightly hence when you disconnected the EGR it still didn't make a difference to lump throttle response. Unplugging the EGR did give me an EML but not bothered as with the new cable will be able to delete code.

I hope this isn't a question that is always asked but I have been searching the internet on and off for days before having to ask for myself.
Any suggestions or ideas are welcome.
Even with these faults I've read of garages that haven't been very successful or the thread just ends without any closure.

I keep telling myself stay away from blaming the injectors as its something I have no control over or having to book the car in. The car also performs ok when warm.

I am not a mechanic, I am willing to try any suggestions and hopefully someone on here has had the same issue as me and can point me in the right direction.

Thank you for reading

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Cityfan1

Hello All, I am new to this forum but I am also new to Volvo's.
Purchased a Volvo V60 MY61 with the PSA 1.6 diesel engine and it's a Manual.

When I purchased the car second hand, the previous owner must have taken the car out to get it warm as the fault didn't happen then.
I did look for the engine temp indicator but was surprised to see it doesn't have one.

Drove home approximately 200 miles. Not an issue. Have no idea what to compare it to but it did make the journey home. I only achieved 43mpg which I was expecting a lot more especially being sat at 70mph on cruise and the occasional blip to 75-80mph for an overtake. The only reason for purchase was the advertised economy and cheap road tax.

The next day when starting, the car was smoking quite a lot, white and blue, it had a horrible diesel and sulphur smell. When touching the accelerator, it is lumpy as anything. Its been anywhere between 9 and 13 degrees this past week around mid day so thought its not cold so why is this happening?

So far, Replaced all 4 Glow plugs (Bosch brand).
Replaced Glow plug controller (GSF special)
Replaced Diesel Filter (OEM Volvo)

No change

NO Engine management light on.

Ordered a new Engine coolant temp sensor (Febi - Hasn't arrived yet)
When unplugging the engine coolant temp sensor I do get approximately 7v for a few seconds on the glow plugs.
I don't think this is glow plug related at all.

I have Vida 2014d (helps with dismantling, location and part no's)
I have just ordered a mongoose cable (same functionality as dice). Hopefully this will help me find the issue.

I have unplugged the MAF but the idle isn't that bad. You could say it does become ever so slightly smoother. BUT as soon as you touch the accelerator its missing and smoking. I have read online that even when you press the accelerator with the MAF disconnected the EGR will open and it does shudder again. All of this disappears when the engine is warm. why doesn't the EGR affect the car when it's warm?

I also disconnected the 5 pin plug going to the EGR when the car was running and pressed the accelerator and it was still lumpy making me think, is it even the EGR at fault? That really threw me, up until then I thought I was getting somewhere. My friend then said that the EGR could be stuck open slightly hence when you disconnected the EGR it still didn't make a difference to lump throttle response. Unplugging the EGR did give me an EML but not bothered as with the new cable will be able to delete code.

I hope this isn't a question that is always asked but I have been searching the internet on and off for days before having to ask for myself.
Any suggestions or ideas are welcome.
Even with these faults I've read of garages that haven't been very successful or the thread just ends without any closure.

I keep telling myself stay away from blaming the injectors as its something I have no control over or having to book the car in. The car also performs ok when warm.

I am not a mechanic, I am willing to try any suggestions and hopefully someone on here has had the same issue as me and can point me in the right direction.

Thank you for reading

You have inherited someone else's problem car .

most likely an injector , also software... I would get the engine ECM updated as it has new adapting routines . I would let the volvo dealer look at it as they have had experience and service bulletins about this .

[Cityfan1]

Originally Posted by Clan

You have inherited someone else's problem car .

most likely an injector , also software... I would get the engine ECM updated as it has new adapting routines . I would let the volvo dealer look at it as they have had experience and service bulletins about this .

I definitely have inherited someone else's problem, mate.

Thanks for your response.

There is a seatbelt recall outstanding on the vehicle.
When I get it booked in for this, I'll ask them for an 'ECM Update and ask about new adapting routines'. Is there nothing regarding adapting routines I could do via dice?


It will be a few weeks until it's booked in with volvo, though.
I need to get it to its well overdue timing belt appointment next week first.

Is it worth taking the egr off. Giving it a clean, then doing the re calibration on vida? It is on 118k and no history of EGR replacement or cleaning?

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Cityfan1

I definitely have inherited someone else's problem, mate.

Thanks for your response.

There is a seatbelt recall outstanding on the vehicle.
When I get it booked in for this, I'll ask them for an 'ECM Update and ask about new adapting routines'. Is there nothing regarding adapting routines I could do via dice?


It will be a few weeks until it's booked in with volvo, though.
I need to get it to its well overdue timing belt appointment next week first.

Is it worth taking the egr off. Giving it a clean, then doing the re calibration on vida? It is on 118k and no history of EGR replacement or cleaning?

if the car was serviced properly it would get the free volvo whole car updates at every service . so it is unlikely it has the latest ECU software EGR will be fine unless there is a fault code for it .
Unlike the volvo engines , The 1.6 Diesel waterpump is liable to leaks so get them to check that whilst the belt is being done .

[Cityfan1]

Originally Posted by Clan

if the car was serviced properly it would get the free volvo whole car updates at every service . so it is unlikely it has the latest ECU software EGR will be fine unless there is a fault code for it .
Unlike the volvo engines , The 1.6 Diesel waterpump is liable to leaks so get them to check that whilst the belt is being done .

The car had a full Volvo service history up until 3 years ago.
It hasn't seen a dealership since. (To my knowledge)

Yes, the timing belt includes a new water pump as well as aux belt. Its a local place and all they do is timing belts. That's being done for £375. They said they only use parts from 3 major manufacturers, such as gates and a few others.

I did read somewhere on a Peugeot or Citroen forum something regarding the adaptation process for injectors. They should all have a no7, meaning they have learned. If they're at 0 it means they haven't gone through the adaptation process. This individual kept teaching the injectors but after a power cycle they would always revert back to 0. He ended up in having to buy a new ECM. Hopefully not something I'll have to do but its speculation at this point

[Zhanyan]

I usually do 70mph overtaking 75-80
mpg around 53-58
for reference

[Clan]

Originally Posted by Zhanyan

I usually do 70mph overtaking 75-80
mpg around 53-58
for reference

Thats the problem ,
sticking to 65 mph constant gives you around 65 - 70 mpg depending on wind and terrain .

[Cityfan1]

****UPDATE****

So cable finally arrived today.
Scanned the modules.
I cleared the codes I caused, i.e., maf unplugged, and EGR unplugged.

Once everything was plugged back in, I reset and Rescanned.

It came up with an EGR stuck open fault.

Under the vehicle communication tab, there's an option to send instructions to various electronics components around the car.
I commanded the EGR to go to 50% and 100% both times it achieved.
When I commanded 0%, it would not go below 27% odd.
I.e. EGR valve stuck Open.

I'm going to have to take it all apart some time in the next few weeks to see if there is a large sooty build-up in there.

Strangest thing. The car never threw up a code or EML until I scanned it. Then, I had a dash warning, such as reduced performance and an EML light.

I have attached a picture showing the commanded position vs. actual position.

Thanks for the MPG references @Clan @Zhanyan

[MikeywJ]

I'd be interested to see how you get on when you take the egr off etc,.. would you be able to put some photos up? Be aware that if you decide to replace it that these volvos are notoriously picky for replacement EGR's,... It's pretty much guaranteed that you will HAVE to buy a genuine OEM part, which of course... comes with a cost.

keep us posted

[XC90Mk1]

Whe. You say ‘model year’ is it a 2010 or 11?

The older 16V Ford engine is unreliable as due to the DPF which is wet and which requires fluid. The symptoms you explain sounds like that.

If it’s the later 8V engine then they are much more reliable and it’s a slightly different situation.

Do you know if yours is 8V or 16?