b230fk Upgrades?

[deeman940]

Originally Posted by Beadybc

Interesting that you say that a custom exhaust was cheaper, was this because you or someone you know fabricated it or was it just cheaper?

One thing that affected my decision on the exhaust was the downpipe sizing because it has to fit the new turbo, what width + type of connection downpipe would be needed to fit a 19t?

Trying to find a second hand 19t is proving quite hard, only new ones from here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01MSVA8...osi&th=1&psc=1

https://www.speedingparts.co.uk/p/tu...SABEgLCVfD_BwE

And I don't really trust either of them.

I like the idea of getting the gold EZK and fuel + ignition chips from classicswede. I'm even more hazy on my knowledge of electric stuff, is it as simple as replacing the ezk, replacing the chips and then giving it to someone to get a map done?

I am now starting to see that achieving 250bhp is a lot easier to do then going for 300bhp+ without doing internals, which I'm fine with.

You don't need to do any internals for 300bhp....just bolt ons
if you put generic chips in you won't need a custom map...
i think classicswede sells a 3" downpipe or you will need to get one fabricated,,,
Owen Developments do a 19t hybrid especially for this application but its not cheap at 1500 quid but well worth it!!

[Beadybc]

Originally Posted by deeman940

You don't need to do any internals for 300bhp....just bolt ons
if you put generic chips in you won't need a custom map...
i think classicswede sells a 3" downpipe or you will need to get one fabricated,,,
Owen Developments do a 19t hybrid especially for this application but its not cheap at 1500 quid but well worth it!!

Ah ok so are the chips just replacing the map with a new pre setup one removing the need to get it tweaked?

I will mention this now probably a bit late but I like the idea of having a 3 inch downpipe leading into a standard exhaust except for the addition of bypass valves so that it is unsuspecting but when I need good flow I can have it.

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by Beadybc

Ah ok so are the chips just replacing the map with a new pre setup one removing the need to get it tweaked?

I will mention this now probably a bit late but I like the idea of having a 3 inch downpipe leading into a standard exhaust except for the addition of bypass valves so that it is unsuspecting but when I need good flow I can have it.

The generic chips contain fuel and ignition maps that have been found to work with almost every tuned engine, however like the original manufacturer fitted chips, there are compromises to ensure the safety and longevity of the engine they are controlling.

With custom chips, these are programmed to optimise the specific engine they are running. This can give improved performance and economy without compromising certain things as a safety measure because the engine is capable of withstanding more in a particular parameter than others.
That said, until you've built your engine, you won't know whether a custom or generic chip-set will be better for you in the wallet department and performance. Ideally, a custom set is the way to go as it can be tweaked to your individual engine.

Despite everything the manufacturers will tell us, all engines are different even though they are built from the same components and tolerances.

Are you planning any head work in terms of porting and port-matching? That is usually a good way of (relatively) cheaply releasing power, improving smoothness and economy and provides a good foundation for the other mods you have planned.

[Beadybc]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

The generic chips contain fuel and ignition maps that have been found to work with almost every tuned engine, however like the original manufacturer fitted chips, there are compromises to ensure the safety and longevity of the engine they are controlling.

With custom chips, these are programmed to optimise the specific engine they are running. This can give improved performance and economy without compromising certain things as a safety measure because the engine is capable of withstanding more in a particular parameter than others.
That said, until you've built your engine, you won't know whether a custom or generic chip-set will be better for you in the wallet department and performance. Ideally, a custom set is the way to go as it can be tweaked to your individual engine.

Despite everything the manufacturers will tell us, all engines are different even though they are built from the same components and tolerances.

Are you planning any head work in terms of porting and port-matching? That is usually a good way of (relatively) cheaply releasing power, improving smoothness and economy and provides a good foundation for the other mods you have planned.

My Dad found this on an older thread:

"Just be careful that you use a good quality boost gauge, and don't go over 12 psi on a standard engine - you'll have a very good chance of melting the pistons.

For info, this is what I did to my '97 Classic a few years ago -

Boost gauge (£35 new, autojumble)
MBC spring & ball type (£15 ebay)

Running at around 10psi should give you around 190bhp. This is plenty to be honest, but for even more fun...

iPD antisway bars (£400 (?), iPD via forum group buy)
531 cylinderhead (£50, ebay) This head has better breathing exhaust ports, is otherwise same as the standard 530 head. Reconditioning and mild reworking cost £400 locally.
'A' pattern camshaft (£35, forum member) very mild upgrade, but useful.
2.5" stainless performance exhaust with competition spec cat (£600 powerflow) BIG improvement in responsiveness and turbo spoolup.
Remapped chips (£250, Fredrik on turbobricks forum)
Mustang 5 litre V8 injectors (£forgotten, US ebay)
Fully synthetic trans fluid (Amsoil)
Mobil 1 engine oil
Halfords premium coolant
K&N panel air filter

All the above is prep for running higher boost...and a bigger turbo

15G turbo (£70, ebay) From early 850 T5 car
turbo recondition kit (£50, ebay)

Running the above at 15psi i reckon i was well on the way to 220-240bhp. It was certainly a monster with wheelspin readily available in any gear except 5th! MPG was down to 18 though - even without thrashing it.

If you do decide to do something similar, make sure you get the chips and injectors before going over 12psi - they will provide the extra fuel required to prevent you running excessively lean."


He mentions getting a 531 head and paying to have it reconditioned. Do you think this method would be better than having it done to the car's current head?

[Pete940]

My opinion, rather than experience; No. And the prices are much higher for those heads nowadays. I wouldn't even touch the 530 head until I was at the sort of power that requires stronger rods.
I'll reinforce my earlier opinion; a small turbine housing on the turbo will hold it back more than anything else. This is just based on what I've seen people experimenting with in recent years.

[classicswede]

Originally Posted by Beadybc

My Dad found this on an older thread:

[I]"Just be careful that you use a good quality boost gauge, and don't go over 12 psi on a standard engine - you'll have a very good chance of melting the pistons.

?

Someone needs to tell all the guys in Sweden running 30+PSI on factory pistons

[TonyS9]

The problem going over 12psi is potentially a weak mixture, but I have never found any problems on the track or drag racing going up to the fuel cut limit around 15psi. Even after I had some low compression the problem was not damaged valves, and certainly not melted pistons (seemed to be a damaged HG during assembly). The redblock turbo has a number of cooling measures in the design such as Sodium filled valves and oil squirters.

[Beadybc]

Originally Posted by B10B

The first things that needs to be addressed is air metering and fuel. It's well known that you will reach 'fuel cut' with anything more than about 330cfm though whatever turbo is on the engine and the injectors will be at max cycle. Expect 220hp to be the limit here.
Addressing the air metering with a 3" Amm and 440cc injectors with fuel and ignition chips designed for the correct amm linearisation tables and injector constants will enable you to utilise the higher cfm of larger turbos like the 19T. At 18psi my 940 makes 265hp after tweeking the ignition map on a roller.
Cam choice is also a big factor, internet dogma says get a larger cam but you will make more torque with TD04 HL turbos with a T or A cam. The IPD cam will give you a lower but more broad torque curve with more high end hp when used with a 19T if my car is anything to go by.
Then you have the exhaust which should be 2.5" minimum 3" is preferable, and if money is no object the TTV flywheel and 850R clutch kit is amazing.
There is probably more or something I've missed, even people that might disagree but this is just what I have found

Example no.2937 of me being an idiot, I forgot that it came with a 2.5 inch aftermarket exhaust system fitted so all I need is a new cat to replace the old one that got stolen, which was the original reason why I wanted a new exhaust.

For the clutch kit is this what you're referencing?: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/302924068...SABEgJivvD_BwE

I'm also looking into getting an lsd, something like this: https://www.shopbhp.com/products/bla...ited-slip-diff

I've seen videos of people doing it on youtube but does anybody have any more information about fitting lsds to these bricks?

[classicswede]

The diff is ok, I have been using them for a while https://www.classicswede.org/shop/bl...40-helical-lsd

You can get the clutch complete with the flywheel and all fixings etc needed https://www.classicswede.org/shop/94...it-with-clutch

[Beadybc]

Originally Posted by TonyS9

For you I'd recoomend either a B230FT wastegate actuator or an aftermarket adjustable actuator. The B230FK actuator is not reliable for producing 12psi.

I was looking into replacing the wastegate actuator with an adjustable one. The only problem is that I can’t see how to remove the old one from the rod end?