Changing P2 front Brake Hoses

[mdmuddin]

Hi,
Can anyone offer any advice and tips on changing the brake hoses? There are quite a few videos online but no Volvo ones. Any P2 specific tips, tools list, etc., will be very helpful. I hope to tackle this soon.
There's one thread here about a V40 but not too much information in it:
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=105767


Thanks in advance.

[cheshired5]

Buy a good quality flare spanner and a couple of days before, wire brush and use a good penetrating oil on the connections.
Other than that, it should be straightforward.

[oragex]

I had three problems when doing mines. First I had not cleaned everything with some pressure water hose so there was sand/dirt in the area

The other issue was I had nothing to block the open lines so to stop the fluid from dripping. Wish I had a piece of eraser or a small cap.

I had a hard time screwing the new hose at the caliper. The filet is so fine I couldn't catch it to start screwing the hose. Meantime the fluid was leaking and the reservoir was emptying.

[owyn]

Also buy lots of rubber gloves! Brake fluid is awful stuff, it gets everywhere and makes your skin sore!

As an aside, I changed mine for braided hoses. Half way through the job I wished I'd never started! Leave planty of time and get some decent spanners etc!

[mdmuddin]

Thanks for the replies.

I'm going to go into a few details in the hope that it makes things easy for me, gives me more confidence and also becomes a good guide for those to come. I will try to write it up in order after any good advice has been shared.

First of all, which penetrating oil would be best to use?

I have some of this stuff:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...stid=31240#_=p

Would WD40 or Plus Gas be any better?

In terms of the procedure, so if I'm going to do the job on Sunday, ideally, I should take the wheel off on Friday evening, generally brush everything down to remove loose dirt from the whole area and then go at the fittings with a wire brush to remove as much dirt, brake dust and rust as possible. Clean everything off again by brushing it down and using some brake cleaner. Then spray plenty of penetrating oil (avoiding rubber parts) on
1: The bleeder nipple
2: Where the hose joins the caliper
3: Where the hose joins the static brake line

Is it worth taking the wheel off again on Saturday, brushing the connections with a wire brush, or giving them a tap with and applying more penetrating oil or is it just to do with how long the stuff sits there as opposed to how much of it there is?


On the topic of preventing too much fluid loss, I've read a tip elsewhere and that is to fill the reservoir to the top before hand, then place some polythene at on the mouth of the reservoir before tightening the cap. This, apparently, makes a vacuum and slows down fluid loss. I have three options in mind for that: black bin liner, cling film or supermarket carrier bag (which now costs 5p); which would be best?

I'm thinking of using a turkey baster to empty the old fluid from the reservoir and refilling with new fluid before starting the job also does that sound a good idea?

Moving on, It's best to loosen the bleeder nipple first to make sure you can get it loose and so you don't get stuck later, unable to bleed the brakes that will literally be full of air. If that does break loose, which connection should be loosened next? I'm thinking to go for the hose and solid-line connection. Is there any reason to go for the caliper end first?


Once you get the hose free from the brake line, what's the best way to plug the line to stop excessive fluid loss? I saw someone using some sort of putty (no idea what type) on a video. I was thinking cling-film or PTFE tape. Any recommendations?

Thanks again

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by owyn

I changed mine for braided hoses.

Why... ?

[cheshired5]

Why are some so concerned about fluid loss?
You're surely changing the fluid anyway so it doesn't matter how much you lose.

[mdmuddin]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

Why are some so concerned about fluid loss?
You're surely changing the fluid anyway so it doesn't matter how much you lose.

As I haven't done this before, I don't really know, but these are my guesses:

Just to keep things relatively dry.
To avoid losing all the fluid and running the reservoir and master cylinder dry (as apparently that can be very dangerous).
To prevent too much air getting into the system and then having to bleed all the brakes.

Are they of any relevance?

Bearing in mind there will be novices like me reading, elaborate answers will be very beneficial

[cheshired5]

Air can only enter the system if you allow it to but regardless, if you correctly use a Sealey VS820 Pressure Bleeder (costs £40), you will never have any issue with fluid loss or air entering.
It's some of the best money you can spend on a tool.

It's not a case of not wanting too much air to enter.
You want zero air in your hydraulic system.

[owyn]

Also get plenty of drips trays and don't let the fluid spend too long on your cars paintwork, it will mark it!

I also made sure to keep the cat away as its very poisonous.

I got a gunson easy bleed to bleed the brakes, it made the job a fiddle! (after I replaced a caliper when I sheared off a bleed nipple!)