Changing P2 front Brake Hoses

[mdmuddin]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

If you correctly use a Sealey VS820 Pressure Bleeder (costs £40), you will never have any issue with fluid loss or air entering.

You do mean using the Bleeder when you bleed the brakes after you finish the change? If so, I was suggesting that somehow stemming the fluid loss during the change may help make the eventual bleed quicker and also mean you waste less brake fluid during the process of removing all the air in the system.

[jasmith44]

" Would WD40 or Plus Gas be any better? " I have used Plus gas over the last 30+ years and always found it to be great at loosening whatever.

[oragex]

Originally Posted by mdmuddin

As I haven't done this before, I don't really know, but these are my guesses:

Just to keep things relatively dry.
To avoid losing all the fluid and running the reservoir and master cylinder dry (as apparently that can be very dangerous).
To prevent too much air getting into the system and then having to bleed all the brakes.

Are they of any relevance?

Bearing in mind there will be novices like me reading, elaborate answers will be very beneficial

All of the above because when it takes 30 minutes to screw back the new hose, the fluid does leak. Indeed if the reservoir gets empty, the fun starts: the rear brake calipers will need to be bleed. Why the funny part? Because of the awful bleeder screws.

I will say, plan ahead of loosening all four bleeders any way. The bleeders need to be loosen any way when replacing the brake pads. The front ones will have to be bleed but are less tricky because the bleeder is thicker and more solid. The rear ones are thinner and will snap if forced. My tip is to clean around the bottom of the bleeder with a steel brush, then soak weeks in advance with a good oil such as Liquid Wrench

Keeping in mind, there is no need to tight a bleeding screw with brute force. Just a bit tight and it will nicely stay in place and will be times more easy to loosen the next time when needed.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by mdmuddin

You do mean using the Bleeder when you bleed the brakes after you finish the change? If so, I was suggesting that somehow stemming the fluid loss during the change may help make the eventual bleed quicker and also mean you waste less brake fluid during the process of removing all the air in the system.

Bleeding the brakes just to expel air is pointless. You're already in there so replace the fluid completely and it adds about 15 minutes to the whole job and it's done right.
You'll need to have a fresh bottle of brake fluid anyway to replace any loss and seeing as you don't keep fluid once opened, you may as well put it to good use rather than use a bit and waste the rest.
Take 150ml from each of the front calipers and 250ml out of the rears and use the rest to flush the clutch if it's a manual.

[4candles]

Originally Posted by mdmuddin

Hi,
Can anyone offer any advice and tips on changing the brake hoses? There are quite a few videos online but no Volvo ones. Any P2 specific tips, tools list, etc., will be very helpful. I hope to tackle this soon.
There's one thread here about a V40 but not too much information in it:
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=105767


Thanks in advance.

The only invaluable tip to heed if your a beginner is to clean and spray any hose connections prior to commencing job.

The way i do hoses is to tackle the connection to the hard line first as this will be the one most likely to give trouble.... last resort if flare spanner fails to undo it is to use good quality vice(mole) grips to undo, or a pair!!

The caliper connection should be trouble free IF its a banjo connector as they have 2 aluminium or copper washers and rarely seize.

If the nipple feels like its not for moving then stick a short nail into the end and give it a judicious tap, and also tap the 'spanner' flats of the nipple all round, almost guaranteed to yield without any fuss.


Once you have all connections loose, temporarily nip them all up and arrange a jar or bowl to catch old fluid, it won't come out that fast, probably 15 minutes of a safety net timewise.... not a problem with assistant present!

To fit new hose, undo caliper end first, then hard line, nip up hard end thencaliper end, then move quickly to bleed nipple, all you really need to bleed brakes are a tube that fits snug over the nipple and a clear jar.....
just add a little fluid to immerse the tube at the beginning and it cannot draw air in when you start to pump the pedal,(remember at this point you need to top up the resorvoir with new fluid !) having an assistant is good but not vital, and you really only need to pump pedal about 10 times per side to run the new fluid through, if you have an assistant you can stop bleeding on the downstroke while he/she tightens nipple, if solo just do your 10 pumps and jump out to tighten nipple yourself.... all quite simple, hope this helps rather than hinders.

Good luck

4c

[mdmuddin]

Can anyone recommend good spanners for the job? Size, type and brand would be good and a link to a seller's website even better.

Regarding the hoses, Eurocarparts to Pagid ones for about £15 quid. Any views on them, or is everyone saying it should be originals only?

Hoping to order everything online to save time and then do the job one evening this week.

Thanks.

[Dancake]

I use Britool Hallmark flare spanners. Purchased them from ebay. There are a couple of sets for sale at the minute. Below is one of the item numbers.

131318787206

I also have a set of Pagid hoses awaiting fitment. Purchased from Eurocarparts. They seem decent quality, and will definitely be better than the 11 year old hoses currently on the car.

[oragex]

might sound like an heresy but my choice for such small connectors/nipples is a locking vise-grip tool

[mdmuddin]

Can anyone tell me exactly which size wrenches I will need? Or is it not worth buying the one or two that I need loose.

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by mdmuddin

Can anyone tell me exactly which size wrenches I will need? Or is it not worth buying the one or two that I need loose.

From memory, I think it's 11mm but seeing as you've been asking for over a week, it might be quicker to pop a wheel off and check for yourself.