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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

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Under car rust proofing

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Old Nov 4th, 2016, 09:29   #11
jamie
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As mentioned, what you want is good creep quality to allow self healing
I have been researching a lot as, like Faust, I have just spent a fortune having the bodywork done.
Conclusion is dinitrol has good creep and self healing and is widely used
There are some specialist products used for harsh conditions like oil rigs and these I have followed up, if you want to ask me, ring 07886421315. But the two recommendations given so far are very good.
For box sections a more liquid product can be used because it is protected from day to day pummelling which would remove the more liquid product. So for day to day exposed areas less creep is needed but enough creep to self heal. Hence the problem with waxoil which while not compromised is good but the least compromise and it will not self heal and the car get the rust worm.
I have no knowledge of dynax, but just to throw two more products into the mis, shell ensis TX or V now made by Houghton in Manchester and Tectyl and another company called FIS chemicals in Aberdeen (near all those north sea rigs)
Good luck
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Old Nov 5th, 2016, 15:05   #12
Vintagewrench
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Here in Vermont and over in New Hampshire in New England (US) for decades garages and car owners have been undercoating cars w/used motor oil yearly with great success. Road dirt builds up on it and forms a layer that is about 1/8" thick. With continued applications I have seen it be as thick as 3/8"

Done correctly and thoroughly and by also spraying it into cavities, and doors, and by plugging the drilled openings with rubber plugs, cars do not rust at all it the drains are kept open and if they do it is only minor and years down the road.

About 30 years ago there was a switch to using hydraulic oils as it will not rot rubber parts and seals. Today "Fluid Film"is used, it is a lanolin-based product that is non toxic and will cause much less harm if it falls on roadways and other areas.

The average cost today is about $125 when done in a garage or specialized facility.

Learn more here.

Last edited by Vintagewrench; Nov 5th, 2016 at 15:10.
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Old Nov 8th, 2016, 21:58   #13
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Default Dinitrol

Had my 940 Dinitrol'ed 8yrs ago by Chassis Clean, sadly no longer in business. No probs so far, but I should really get it touched up.

They warmed the whole car up to about 20C (IIRC) in a special shed with pit. They also removed wheels, mudguard liners etc. That way the Dinitrol flows better into seams etc. Something to be aware of if you do it yourself - choose a warm summer's day.
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Old Jul 7th, 2020, 18:45   #14
sleek lemur
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Default Rust proofing front wings on 1800

Hi all, before I drill any holes, any advice on what to do with the long thin box sections which run along the underside of the front inner/outer wing join?
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Old Jul 7th, 2020, 19:56   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sleek lemur View Post
Hi all, before I drill any holes, any advice on what to do with the long thin box sections which run along the underside of the front inner/outer wing join?
The Dynax cans come a with a lance for such box sections. They're about 2 foot long.
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Old Jul 7th, 2020, 20:06   #16
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I now spray rust converter into cavities and leave for 24hrs to dry. Then Dinitrol ML cavity wax. The rust converter acts as a rust inhibitor and primer.
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Old Jul 7th, 2020, 22:45   #17
Bob Meadows
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Tetroseal or Waxoyl: ~ dilute with clean engine oil for spraying- a Shultz type gun & tube extension for the cavities works well, diluting the above allows the product to creep.
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Old Jul 9th, 2020, 20:00   #18
simon roberts
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Check out ,TimeMAX 2000....came top in an extensive test on identical test metal sections in Germany...On YouTube ....Not cheap , but very very effective.
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Old Jul 9th, 2020, 20:15   #19
sleek lemur
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Great response everyone. Thanks!

Anyone with specific experience of the part I'm dealing with? The long reinforcing member that runs between inner and outer front wings on an 1800? Am thinking of simply drilling three holes and inserting my lance (double entendre intended).
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Old Jul 10th, 2020, 02:04   #20
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Interesting post earlier re the application of old engine oil. I have had quite a few classics over the years and the areas exposed to the inevitable engine oil leaks is always rock solid. I guess that a disadvantage is that in order to be effective it needs to be done on an annual basis.
I would think that wheel arches and inner wings would need to be treated with something more durable though.

I need to attack the underside of my car soon and was going to go down the waxoyl route but I don't like the sound of it trapping moisture when it dries out.
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