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Old Sep 20th, 2019, 14:24   #11
dave c59
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I'd have a very close look at the top engine torque mount and the lower one too. Also check to see if the gearbox casing is resting on the chassis rail by the front passenger rail - there should be a gap between the rubber pad and the chassis (when the hydraulic mounts start to fail the engine slowly drops down). If your engine is moving about this could cause a clunk.

Last edited by dave c59; Sep 20th, 2019 at 14:33.
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Old Sep 20th, 2019, 19:59   #12
scorpio stu
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave c59 View Post
I'd have a very close look at the top engine torque mount and the lower one too. Also check to see if the gearbox casing is resting on the chassis rail by the front passenger rail - there should be a gap between the rubber pad and the chassis (when the hydraulic mounts start to fail the engine slowly drops down). If your engine is moving about this could cause a clunk.
I recently replaced the top engine mount
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Old Sep 20th, 2019, 21:42   #13
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Originally Posted by ASt85 View Post
If you are getting a clunk when going from reverse to drive or drive to reverse it can be an indication of worn driveshaft splines.

When I replaced the driveshafts in my 2001 2.4 V70 (220Kmiles) a few months ago the clunk disappeared. It seemed more time efficient and a lot less messy to change the both shafts rather than just replace the CV joints on both sides as given the mileage I thought there might be some play in the splines. The replacement driveshafts from J&R (https://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/cata...ive-shafts-509) came supplied with new bolts.

Re the bolt head size, my T5 has 13mm N/S and 14mm O/S - I'm told the bolt head size spec was changed some years ago so maybe someone has replaced one of the bolts when a CV joint was changed.
J&R are an excellent company, great value and brand new parts. wish I'd know about them years ago. No association with the company just a very happy repeat customer. (So far I've had a pair of outer CV's for the S80, pair of complete driveshafts for my better half's 206 HDi, 1 CV for our Xantia and one for our ex-Escort cabby plus a few boot kits. Cannot fault them).
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Old Sep 21st, 2019, 08:30   #14
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Some really useful information. Thanks all for taking the time to reply.
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Old Sep 21st, 2019, 08:31   #15
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There was some rust.
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Old Sep 21st, 2019, 08:32   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Clan View Post
was there any fine rust dust around the bolt indicating movement with the hub and driveshaft splines?
It could be something completely different of course , best get it checked at a garage familiar with volvos .
There was some rust,yes.
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Old Sep 23rd, 2019, 14:46   #17
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Originally Posted by ma70 View Post
J&R are an excellent company, great value and brand new parts. wish I'd know about them years ago. No association with the company just a very happy repeat customer. (So far I've had a pair of outer CV's for the S80, pair of complete driveshafts for my better half's 206 HDi, 1 CV for our Xantia and one for our ex-Escort cabby plus a few boot kits. Cannot fault them).
76. Are they hard to fit or definite mechanic job ?
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Old Sep 23rd, 2019, 19:47   #18
ma70
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Depends on your level of experience really, it's only really a 2 bolt job once the wheel is off but those 2 bolts are the bottom balljoint (and associated splitting/levering back together) and the hub centre bolt.

Simple enough really just a bit of manhandling to get the balljoint back in & the splines on the old outer CV might be reluctant to move from the hub but other than that it's one of the simpler jobs you could do IMO. Have a look at a couple of videos on changing driveshafts though & decide from there I'd say since if you get stuck the car is immobile, and if changing the whole shaft watch out for losing a bit of oil from the diff housing when you pop the inner joint out.
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Old Sep 23rd, 2019, 22:43   #19
scorpio stu
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I think I'll look for a decent mechanic in Essex...
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