Volvo Community Forum. The Forums of the Volvo Owners Club

Forum Rules Volvo Owners Club About VOC Volvo Gallery Links Volvo History Volvo Press
Go Back   Volvo Owners Club Forum > "Technical Topics" > PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General

Notices

PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars

Information
  • VOC Members: There is no login facility using your VOC membership number or the details from page 3 of the club magazine. You need to register in the normal way
  • AOL Customers: Make sure you check the 'Remember me' check box otherwise the AOL system may log you out during the session. This is a known issue with AOL.
  • AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net users. Forum owners such as us are finding that AOL, Yahoo and Plus.net are blocking a lot of email generated from forums. This may mean your registration activation and other emails will not get to you, or they may appear in your spam mailbox

Thread Informations

Fuse block wiring.

Views : 817

Replies : 12

Users Viewing This Thread :  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old Jun 25th, 2018, 09:21   #1
arcturus
arcturus
 
arcturus's Avatar
 

Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
Default Fuse block wiring.

Hi, is there a better way of connecting other than twisting the wire ends and stuffing them into the connectors? In some cases its a question of stuffing two wires into the same hole.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20180625_01.jpg (182.3 KB, 19 views)
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine
arcturus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 25th, 2018, 09:38   #2
swedishandgerman
Premier Member
 
swedishandgerman's Avatar
 

Last Online: Oct 23rd, 2023 21:39
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: EXETER
Default

I thoroughly recommend a soldering iron there for many reasons. Firstly it protects against corrosion. It also gives a much tidier appearance as well as eliminates rogue wires. Lastly, it ensures where 2 wires are joined together, they are joined together properly!

Just because I enjoy really tidy wiring and I hate blue crimp connectors, I would get some tiny bullets, pins or spades and solder them to the wire ends with a 1 - 2cm heat shrink over the top. Those would secure nicely in the screws you've shown, wouldn't oxidise so quickly and ensure really good connection of 2 wires.

Something like this:

https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/...0pcs-no-covers

That's if you have loads of time available!!
__________________
2006 XC70 D5 Manual
1968 Amazon Estate, B18A + Overdrive
2019 V60 D3 Momentum Pro Manual
1970 Amazon 2-Door
1970 142DL
swedishandgerman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 25th, 2018, 10:58   #3
arcturus
arcturus
 
arcturus's Avatar
 

Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
Default

I have been having another look at my fuse box and it's not original. Does the original have a bus bar connecting all first four inlet connections? Trying to twist 2, 6mm wires together and stuffing them into the fixing holes is not ideal, as I had previously.
http://www.vp-autoparts.com/main.asp...g&artno=191349
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PV fusebox wiring2.jpg (302.1 KB, 15 views)
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine
arcturus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 25th, 2018, 11:30   #4
Ron Kwas
Premier Member
 
Ron Kwas's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 21:14
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
Default

Arcturus;

For optimal long-term service in the screw-type FB, I'd first "tin" the stripped wire ends (apply a bit of electronic solder to twisted strands to hold them together neatly, which makes a gas-tight-joint, and also strengthens them and increases the cross-sectional conductor area slightly, and helps them stand up to the compression they will be subjected to in the screw-type terminals)...then insert into their screw compression locations...but I'd also apply a bit of ACZP to the wire ends, and set-screw threads to lube and protect all connections. Wipe away excess for a clean final appearance. Please advise if you don't have a source for ACZP (and supply mailing address via private message), and I'll send you a sample for your restoration work.

Regarding originality...compare to wiring diagram...buss-bars connecting FB terminals will be indicated there...reference: http://www.sw-em.com/Fuses,%20Alloca...ng.htm#444_(6V)

PS...There is something wrong with link...it was supposed to take you directly to 444(6) area...and it's not...I'll have to correct, but if you scroll down manually, both types of FBs, as Derek mentions, are shown...

Cheers

Last edited by Ron Kwas; Jun 25th, 2018 at 11:54. Reason: Added Link
Ron Kwas is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 25th, 2018, 11:35   #5
Derek UK
VOC Member
 
Derek UK's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 17:06
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
Default

This type of fuse box with 6 equal length fuses was used in the PV and the one currently supplied is the same. There are 2 earlier types that have 2 and 3 positions for the 25amp dumpy fuse. Later 12v boxes have male tabs instead of the screw terminals but they are only a 4 fuse box. I'd say stick with what you have and take a little extra time to get good connections. Ron will recommend anti corrosion paste...……………….

Search Google images for "pv544 fuse box"

Relevant read http://swedishrelics.blogspot.com/20...ing-wired.html
Derek UK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 25th, 2018, 13:25   #6
arcturus
arcturus
 
arcturus's Avatar
 

Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
Default

I'm a bit confused. I was going to ask if it is necessary for the bridging wires from number one connection need to be 6mm as it would be easier to use 2.5 but when I measured the 6mm it isn't actually but only about 3.5 mm cross section. how exactly is the cable measured?
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine
arcturus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 25th, 2018, 13:30   #7
Ron Kwas
Premier Member
 
Ron Kwas's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 21:14
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
Default

Arcturus;

For purposes of bridging from one FB terminal to another, as long as the gauge is similar, you will be OK...presuming the hole in the screw-terminal is big enough to accommodate both wires (if not, a slightly more creative solution most be arrived at).

Cheers
Ron Kwas is online now   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 25th, 2018, 13:51   #8
arcturus
arcturus
 
arcturus's Avatar
 

Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
Default

Found this very helpful link which explains it all.
https://jaydeeautocables.com.au/pages/cable-size-chart
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine
arcturus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 25th, 2018, 20:52   #9
Volvo_133
VOC member
 

Last Online: Apr 14th, 2024 10:29
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sheffield
Default

Make a copper bus-bar to link the 4 "Live side" connections. The left connection screw must clamp the cable and secure the bus bar. The other 3 should be straight forward. Remember the anti corrosion paste.
Volvo_133 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old Jun 26th, 2018, 10:40   #10
Derek UK
VOC Member
 
Derek UK's Avatar
 

Last Online: Today 17:06
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
Default

Have you looked on the back of this FB? Bridging links are often on the underside. I know you are refitting it after the repaint but it might not have been that way up in your hand and you've never noticed it.
Derek UK is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 21:26.


Powered by vBulletin
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.