|
PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
Information |
|
Fuse block wiring.Views : 817 Replies : 12Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Jun 25th, 2018, 09:21 | #1 |
arcturus
Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
|
Fuse block wiring.
Hi, is there a better way of connecting other than twisting the wire ends and stuffing them into the connectors? In some cases its a question of stuffing two wires into the same hole.
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine |
Jun 25th, 2018, 09:38 | #2 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Oct 23rd, 2023 21:39
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: EXETER
|
I thoroughly recommend a soldering iron there for many reasons. Firstly it protects against corrosion. It also gives a much tidier appearance as well as eliminates rogue wires. Lastly, it ensures where 2 wires are joined together, they are joined together properly!
Just because I enjoy really tidy wiring and I hate blue crimp connectors, I would get some tiny bullets, pins or spades and solder them to the wire ends with a 1 - 2cm heat shrink over the top. Those would secure nicely in the screws you've shown, wouldn't oxidise so quickly and ensure really good connection of 2 wires. Something like this: https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/...0pcs-no-covers That's if you have loads of time available!!
__________________
2006 XC70 D5 Manual 1968 Amazon Estate, B18A + Overdrive 2019 V60 D3 Momentum Pro Manual 1970 Amazon 2-Door 1970 142DL |
Jun 25th, 2018, 10:58 | #3 |
arcturus
Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
|
I have been having another look at my fuse box and it's not original. Does the original have a bus bar connecting all first four inlet connections? Trying to twist 2, 6mm wires together and stuffing them into the fixing holes is not ideal, as I had previously.
http://www.vp-autoparts.com/main.asp...g&artno=191349
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine |
Jun 25th, 2018, 11:30 | #4 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 21:14
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
|
Arcturus;
For optimal long-term service in the screw-type FB, I'd first "tin" the stripped wire ends (apply a bit of electronic solder to twisted strands to hold them together neatly, which makes a gas-tight-joint, and also strengthens them and increases the cross-sectional conductor area slightly, and helps them stand up to the compression they will be subjected to in the screw-type terminals)...then insert into their screw compression locations...but I'd also apply a bit of ACZP to the wire ends, and set-screw threads to lube and protect all connections. Wipe away excess for a clean final appearance. Please advise if you don't have a source for ACZP (and supply mailing address via private message), and I'll send you a sample for your restoration work. Regarding originality...compare to wiring diagram...buss-bars connecting FB terminals will be indicated there...reference: http://www.sw-em.com/Fuses,%20Alloca...ng.htm#444_(6V) PS...There is something wrong with link...it was supposed to take you directly to 444(6) area...and it's not...I'll have to correct, but if you scroll down manually, both types of FBs, as Derek mentions, are shown... Cheers Last edited by Ron Kwas; Jun 25th, 2018 at 11:54. Reason: Added Link |
Jun 25th, 2018, 11:35 | #5 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Today 17:06
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
|
This type of fuse box with 6 equal length fuses was used in the PV and the one currently supplied is the same. There are 2 earlier types that have 2 and 3 positions for the 25amp dumpy fuse. Later 12v boxes have male tabs instead of the screw terminals but they are only a 4 fuse box. I'd say stick with what you have and take a little extra time to get good connections. Ron will recommend anti corrosion paste...……………….
Search Google images for "pv544 fuse box" Relevant read http://swedishrelics.blogspot.com/20...ing-wired.html |
Jun 25th, 2018, 13:25 | #6 |
arcturus
Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
|
I'm a bit confused. I was going to ask if it is necessary for the bridging wires from number one connection need to be 6mm as it would be easier to use 2.5 but when I measured the 6mm it isn't actually but only about 3.5 mm cross section. how exactly is the cable measured?
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine |
Jun 25th, 2018, 13:30 | #7 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Today 21:14
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Connecticut, USA
|
Arcturus;
For purposes of bridging from one FB terminal to another, as long as the gauge is similar, you will be OK...presuming the hole in the screw-terminal is big enough to accommodate both wires (if not, a slightly more creative solution most be arrived at). Cheers |
Jun 25th, 2018, 13:51 | #8 |
arcturus
Last Online: Apr 10th, 2024 08:21
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sagres Portugal
|
Found this very helpful link which explains it all.
https://jaydeeautocables.com.au/pages/cable-size-chart
__________________
life's too short to drink bad wine |
Jun 25th, 2018, 20:52 | #9 |
VOC member
Last Online: Apr 14th, 2024 10:29
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sheffield
|
Make a copper bus-bar to link the 4 "Live side" connections. The left connection screw must clamp the cable and secure the bus bar. The other 3 should be straight forward. Remember the anti corrosion paste.
|
Jun 26th, 2018, 10:40 | #10 |
VOC Member
Last Online: Today 17:06
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Chatham
|
Have you looked on the back of this FB? Bridging links are often on the underside. I know you are refitting it after the repaint but it might not have been that way up in your hand and you've never noticed it.
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|