Rough on startup 945 B230FT

[360beast]

Originally Posted by Laird Scooby

Many machine shops still insist on removing the valves though Luke, even though what you say is right. I think a lot depends on their skimming machine..........

The place I use will do them with the valves in as long as they aren't too close to the mating face, red blocks have a very recessed combustion chamber so they should do it no issues as long as the cam is out so none of them are open. I guess most modern diesels etc they would need to be removed.

[jlawler]

Thanks guys.
I think the gasket kit covers the valve seals but I'll check.
I'll also do the water pump while I have the head off. It was dealer replaced by the previous owner but it looked like a bodge job to me, particularly the engine head seal

One thing Exhaust manifold bolts. I see there are two lengths 35mm (1336261) or 48mm (953048)
Weirdly I still have a set from a rebuild I did on the old car and they are 50mm (953049)

[Laird Scooby]

Originally Posted by jlawler

Thanks guys.
I think the gasket kit covers the valve seals but I'll check.
I'll also do the water pump while I have the head off. It was dealer replaced by the previous owner but it looked like a bodge job to me, particularly the engine head seal

One thing Exhaust manifold bolts. I see there are two lengths 35mm (1336261) or 48mm (953048)
Weirdly I still have a set from a rebuild I did on the old car and they are 50mm (953049)

The pic further up of the gasket set shows what looks like 4 valve stem seals (often only fitted to the inlet valves) and if the water pump is working, i'd advise leaving it alone as there are a lot of poor quality water pumps on the market these days. Seems the only one that's any good is the SKF one but i understand it's more expensive.

[Ian21401]

I agree with Dave regarding the water pump. It may look like a bodge job but if it is working and not leaking leave it alone until it needs attention. I had need to replace the water pump on my 1992 B200F engine back in 2012. I was trying to fit a genuine Volvo pump which was supplied with gasket, heater pipe O ring and “top hat” top seal. The fitting procedure is: 1) with the top seal fitted to the pump locate the pump against the engine block with the top seal loose fitting into the cylinder head and then 2) attach the pump to the engine block with bolts finger tight fitted through the two oval holes in the pump body. Then lever the entire pump up against the cylinder head so that the seal is a tight fit into the CH and the remaining holes in the water pump body align with the holes in the engine block and insert the remaining securing bolts. Then tighten all the bolts.
Despite my best efforts I found that with the new top seal fitted it was impossible to lever the pump up far enough to insert the remaining bolts so I gave in and refitted the old top seal in place of the new one. A fair degree of force was still required but it was successfully fitted and still remains leak proof .
So, if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.

[jlawler]

The Beastie is back up and running.
Since it was going to be such a job doing it, I decided to have the head reconditioned while I was at it. Cleaned, skimmed, valve seals replaced and valves reseated, gaped, exhaust studs replaced and pressure tested.

All back together now with new hardware and bar some irritating problems with the Turbo oil drain sump seal and moment of panic from a spark plug with a closed gap causing misfire, I can say it hasn't sounded so good ever ever.
I still have to do the injector seals (but that can wait until I can move about without pain)

Thanks for all the advice and guidance.