340 DL CVT iregular running at stationair running

[Peter Milnes]

Then check the timing. Explosions in the exhaust system are caused by poor timing or even timing out of alignment and can be very dangerous. They may be caused by misfiring or a very coked up cylinder head as well.

Farting in the exhaust when slowing down is a symptom of weak mixture and may be due to main jet in carburettor becoming blocked. I would check and change the fuel filter which may be inside the fuel tank surrounding the fuel pick-up pipe. By "farting" I assume you mean the noise similar to a Morris Minor when slowing on a closed throttle.

All the best, Peter

SOLVED!!!!
well kinda...
went to the official volvo dealer in my town...
real nice people, they check my volvo out, EGR thingy was broken and they offert me a choice: replace with good one, (137 euro ex labor)
or remove it from the system for 142 euro incl labour.
i choose the last. could anybody tell me what this thing does? any things i will start to notice now its gone?

some other things they pointed out:
broken manifold bolt (this caused also some bad running, they sealed the hole with some (i think ) fire gum)
worn V-belt (altenator waterpump one) bought a new one right away
leaking rocker cover seal bought new liquid gasket tude.

thanks verry much for all your help!!!

i will return the favor if the time ever comes!!

theo
holland

To be honest I didn`t know that the 340 was fitted with an EGR valve. (I`m fairly certain mine isn`t - B14.4E engine 1988) Perhaps that`s why we were`nt able to offer you a solution - not having them on our own cars.

Perhaps exhaust emission regulations where tighter in the Netherlands than the were in the UK in the `80s.

An EGR valve bleeds a metered amount of exhaust gases into the air intake stream on partial and full load conditions. This reduces combustion chamber temperatures and thus the amount of polluting nitrous oxides (NOx) produced by the engine.

If this allows exhaust gasses through at idle, it will stall the engine.

I`m not convinced that removing it is a good idea - at the very least it will increase the amount of pollution produced by your car and as the ignition system is possibly optimised for the lower combustion chamber temperatures (with the EGR) you may get some pinking or over heating (this is pure conjecture though.)

You might also fail your next emissions test. At least if you do you`ll have an idea where to look for a solution!

Anyway I`m glad it`s sorted

Will Plummer

i asked if it would fail the test, they said regulations are pretty roomy....

what is your idea? I'm thinking about going to a scrap yard and get 1 or more scrap valves (dont know how much work the replacement would be... and if any special tools are needed....) and fit them in.

something else,
how much work is it to remove the manifolds? as say before i got a broken bolt (on the clucht side of the engine) wich caused some leaking.

theo (indeed the netherlands (utrecht))

If the man at the garage said it`s OK I wouldn`t worry too much,unless you have your own concerns about extra pollution.

I`m afraid I can`t offer any advice about fitting an EGR on a 340 - I don`t have one on mine (I think! - It`s not in the manual anyway).

Taking the manifold off is quite easy - give the nuts a good soak wth penetrating oil for a few days first and get a new gasket . Make a template of the gasket out of a piece of cardboard and push the studs/bolts through it so that you know which goes back where - they are differing lengths.(or use the old gasket)

It helps to unbolt the exhaust pipe bracket from the clutch housing and to disconnect this from the downpipe as well (you`ll need a new gasket for this too)

Getting the broken bolt (stud?) out of the head may be more problematic - again plenty of penetrating oil and a double nut might shift it - failing that it may need drilling out.

If it`s not leaking anymore, i`d be tempted to leave it....

Will Plummer

[pettaw]

EGR was fitted to some 340 1.4s to try and make them more 'eco-friendly' but to be honest their always reputed to be more trouble than they're worth. (Ask Peter Milnes, 740s and 940s quite often have them fitted and the valves always malfunction)

I have no experience with them as I've never had a 300 with it fitted. As far as I can see, if they've sealed up all the tubes and bypasses etc properly, then the car should be fine and pass all the emissions comfortably as long as the carb is in good condition.

If you really want to know more about EGRs and Volvo's post a message on the 700 forum, just say that the guys on the 300 forums didn't know much about EGR.

Hope that helps

Andy

it still doing fine, egr or not... :)
the stud thing is a totally other problem, I have lots of experience on Austin mini's (rust like H*ll my volvo has NO rust) so the removal it self is not to difficult. (it the upper stud on the clutch side, broken of on the edge where te nut normaly is so if i remove the manifolg do i have enough length?

oh any fuel saving tips ??? mine is doing 1:7 (km to liters)
not affordble for a student....

thanks

theo

[pettaw]

is that 1 litre for 7 km or 7 litres for 1 km. Cos one is about 30 mpg which is perfectly normal for a 340 and one is just ridiculous.

Anyway, hopefully after just being tuned up at the garage the tuning is OK the only other thing to make sure is that all the vacuum hoses are clear, clean and working to make sure the g/box is receiving the messages correctly and is in the correct 'gear' Also I think there is an electrical solenoid which controls the low-gear hold, make sure that's working as it should.

Hope that helps

Andy

Yes sorry 1 liter to run 7 km.

Did some high way running (286km in total) to day and did some calculations,
Used 25 liters on 286 km. comes to 11.44 km to 1 liter. Witch is very acceptable to me.

Only one big problem: the original problem where this discussion started with is BACK!! It just won’t run under (guess) a 1000 rpm.
ASAP im going to replace the broken stud, and the gasket. (Which wont be too hard?) Any pointers to look for on this job?
Can I remove the inlet manifold with the carb still on it?
Could any body give me a time estimate on the job?

Thanks!!


theo

[pettaw]

No you can't really remove the inlet manifold with the carb on it. The Haynes Manual is pretty good at this stuff. I think one of the earlier posts has given you the best advice on how to do it. Basically its all pretty obvious, as long as all the exhaust isn't rusted together (Otherwise plenty of hammering and bad words :))

Get a new gasket and you shouldn't have to use gasket sealant. I would think the old broken stud should come out pretty easily. Use two nuts together as a locknut and turn the stud out. Otherwise it's drills/taps/etc and more headaches.

I would say set aside a day anyway. A couple of hours at least to get it off and then a couple of hours to put it back on.


If the car is just idling too high, can you not just adjust the idle speed down a bit?

Should be about 750rpm