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D24T timing belt change

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Old Oct 28th, 2007, 21:50   #1
tfb
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Default D24T timing belt change

Managed to change the timing belt yesterday. Fellow forum member JOR came up to lend a hand and I was certainly glad of the assistance

On the whole it didn't go too badly, it took us about 6hrs including a lunch break and a fair amount of head-scratching and cursing.

We each had copies of the Volvo D24 service manual and we partially followed this and partly worked on common sense. We found more evidence of previous bodge jobs on the alternator adjustment arm, which explained why the belt is so loose and I get some screeching on acceleration when cold.

Everything was going quite well until it came time to get the big bolt out of the center of the crank-shaft. I tried an electric impact driver on but it didn't budge, then tried putting it gear and standing on the brakes but all that happened was the car began moving!. After a bit more cursing and head-scratching, JOR came up with the idea of a length of chain around the pulley and a long bar through the chain and applying tension. But we couldn't get enough grip around pulley, although I suspect a length of motorbike drive chain may work better as it would provide a bit more surface area contact.

At this point we broke for lunch and a think. Over the ham and cheese rolls we came up with the idea of using some Uni-strut with a couple of bolts through it. (see picture attached)

Now suitably refueled it was out with the hacksaw and cutting up bits of Uni-strut. The idea was based on two long pieces, each with one M12 bolt though it to engage on the lugs in the pulley, a short cross piece to tie them together and then a long diagonal piece to stop the hole thing twisting out shape under tension. On our first attempt the M12 bolts were right at the bottom end and the load was too much and the Uni-strut just bent. JOR suggested moving them up above the cross brace and widening the gap between the two long verticals to allow the extension bar through.

So, take two. JOR was holding the improvised tool and I had the 2ft long breaker bar on the nut. As we started to pull as hard as we could in opposite directions I could feel it start move! Our hearts felt light and even the sun seemed to shine a little brighter! . Suddenly I stopped...it just didn't feel right, so we took the locking tool off and looked at the extension bar which now was resembling a cork-screw!, a quick hunt through the tool boxes turned up a another 6” long ½” drive extension bar and we were back on!.

Finally after a hell of a lot of cursing the nut came off. It really was touch and go as to whether our home made locking tool would hold up, the bolts did look a bit bent by the time we had finished.
Once we had got the pulley off the rest was plain sailing. The new belt went on fine and putting the crankshaft pulley bolt back we just tightened it up until the Uni-strut started to buckle, which should be tight enough.

By the time we had finished putting everything back we were beginning to lose the light and it was about 5 o'clock by the time we were ready to start her up. I leaned through the window, put the key in the ignition, crossed my fingers and turned the key and........nothing! Rats! Connected the battery and tried again. Glow plug light lit and went out, key turned to start and she fired up on the 1st compression stroke!!!!!, together with the usual cloud of smoke and rattles and bangs

All in all, it turned out to be a very successful day. JOR's help was invaluable and I simply would not have been able to do it solo. If anyone else is considering changing thier timing belt I would strongly recommend that you get the proper tool for holding the pulley stationary and use a 2ft breaker bar with a length of scaffolding bar on top of it!.
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Old Oct 29th, 2007, 17:17   #2
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Default d24 belts

Thanks for the enjoyable account tfb.....and for the hospitality etc.
As it appears that getting hold of tool 5284 is not an easy task I posted to the d24 list about your modified tool and received a reply from Tom Bryant, who is an engine builder and has rebuit some 100 d24's. Although he exaggerates the torque somewhat it may nevertheless be an idea just to recheck that bolt when you get a chance.

"I'm not sure just how your friend held his crankshaft from turning, but
be advised that that bolt requires somewhere in the neighbor hood of 500
ft-lbs of torque. I sure hope he was holding it well enough and got
sufficient torque on the bolt, because if he didn't he'll surely regret it".

The snap is of the bottom of the alternator and if the bracket in the middle underneath the pliers is the missing piece let me know. I can't remember if your one had this slightly angled bracket. The larger bracket below is not attached to the alternator at all, at least not on this particular engine, it serves as attachment point for the steering pump.
Having said that the alternator belt on the car is really quite slack, noticeably less than on the power steering and can be deflected a good 1 1/2 cm without any pressure.

john
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Old Oct 29th, 2007, 20:46   #3
tfb
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I did some experiments this evening by pushing on a set of bathroom scales held against the wall and I could easily apply 200lb of force. The breaker bar we had was 24" long and our locking tool was about 36" long. I would guess that we applied at least 400lb/ft of force. However, I think I will double check it - better safe than sorry.

I did my usual 180 mile commute today wtihout any problems, the water needed topping with half a pint by the time I got home, so hopefuly the last of the air bubbles are out now.

At work we do subcontract some metal works to a small engineering firm. I think I'll take some measurements of the pulley and get them to make up a plate to fit and have a chat with my local tractor mechanics about borrowing a big torque wrench (mine only goes up to 200lb/ft).

Yep, the nut with the long bolt through it is missing on my alternator mounting bracked, the alternator is just bolted straight on the bracket arm, not sure if I have a bent or straight arm and it's too dark and cold to look now!

Once again, thanks for your help


Regards

TFB
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Old Oct 29th, 2007, 20:58   #4
Paul Clifton
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According to my data the bottom pulley bolt should be done up to 350nm which is about 260lbft.

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Old Oct 29th, 2007, 21:46   #5
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If you want this screw/bracket you are quite welcome. BTW spot the silly mistake the correct tool number is 5187 not 5284, used on B200 engines.

john

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Old Oct 29th, 2007, 23:14   #6
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I was getting my Nm and lb/ft mixed up. It is definately tightened to in excess of 260 lb/ft by my reconing.

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Old Oct 29th, 2007, 23:15   #7
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I'll PM you jor and we'll sort something out. Thansk

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Old Oct 31st, 2007, 13:46   #8
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Hmm, Im glad I paid someone to change the timing belt on mine, £100 for the fuel and Timing belt all in, He was there for 3 hours.
I did however wonder what the scaffold pole was for, Now I know!
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Old Oct 31st, 2007, 19:09   #9
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I would say that £100 was a good price to pay. I think that if I had to do it again I could probably do it in about 3hrs. We did waste a fair bit of time stuffing down rolls and tea and scratching our heads over locking the crankshaft and making up the tool.

regards

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Old Aug 26th, 2008, 23:20   #10
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Perhaps better to continue this old thread rather than start a new one? I've got a VW mechanic who I trust who is carrying out basic stuff for me but he no longer does cam belt changes and I have just had my new belt delivered today and am worried about who to get to fit it. I have two local 'cheap' garages in the Henley area ('cheap' in Henley is expensive) but they have both let me down badly before. Having read this blog on changing the cam belt would it be better if I put my D24TIC into Volvos, 'swallowed' on their hourly rate (probably unimaginable) rather than give this job to amateurs? (VW Commericals Reading say they are not insured to work on it due to non-vw ancilliary parts they are not insured to work on, lol). The previous owner said it had been changed in Feb, the diesel pump belt looks new if that's anything to go by and much of the car has clearly been highly maintaned but other parts not but he gave me no receipt for the work done and not sure if I believe him. Once had a cambelt go on a Peugeot diesel, complete engine rebuild, don't want to go there ever again.
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