Turbocharger Boost Pressure Not Detected (P2262)

[Oreax]

Vehicle specs:

Volvo V60 D4 2.0 181 HP Ocean Race, 2015
Engine: D4204T5 - 4 cylinder
Manual transmission (6 gears)

Here’s what happened - pre story:
The family and I were on our way home from Italy, going north, ~1.800 km when suddenly I felt the car didn’t have as much power as usual. Driving in mountains / steep hills (6-8%) my thought was that it might be just that, causing me to have to downshift after which we drove hundreds of km in a straight line (at high rpms), at which I felt no problems.
Reaching further north with 400 km left, we went for fuel. When I turned the car back on, the Check Engine light stayed on. I stopped the car and used Volvo On Call, from whom I was advised to leave the car and let it cool for 15 minutes and then try again. - Unfortunately it didn’t work either. The lady from VOC said it should be ok to do the remaining 400 km to get home, so we drove slow and steady home, which is when I really noticed the problem. - The error code I saw was Turbocharger Boost Pressure Not Detected (P2262).

The issue:
At low rpms the car barely moves, 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear I don’t notice it a lot, but if I go 40 km/h in 3rd and I press the accelerator all the way, the car would usually release a bunch of horses and gallop away, but now it barely does anything until reaching ~2.500 rpm after which it gains a lot of power and takes off. Switching to 4th, got the same going until ~2.500 rpm, after that, gains power again. AKA, low RPM = no power, higher RPM = Full power.

What readings do I see (using my Bluetooth OBD):
- Intake MAP 84 kpa (at idle) and increasing to 100 kpa at a little bit of revving.
- Intake Flow Rate from Mass Air Flow Sensor: 5.00 to 30.00
- For “Accelerator”, I’m getting 0.0 (which I usually don’t, it shows… something..)
- For Boost/Vacuum in another app (Torque), I’m getting idle: around -4.00, between -4.00 to 1.00 at low RPM, and at high RPM it goes all the way up to 22.00

Additionally:
- Fuel consumption seemed a bit higher.
- It appears a bit more black at the exhaust, however this could just be a coincidence, due to the many km on highway.

What I’ve tried:
- I’ve checked boost sensor at the intercooler.
- I’ve checked, and cleaned the MAP sensor (though cleaned I ordered a new from Bosch, since I’m afraid it could’ve been damaged being as gunged up as it was). -- Uploaded before and after shots of this.
- I’ve checked MAF sensor (just because I was at it).
- I’ve tried to take off the intake hose (before the intake box), so I could feel it with my hand when revving, and pressure is definitely, easily felt with just a hand, not a Dyson, but easily felt the pressure.
- Compressing the big intercooler hose with my hand also gave a “breathing” sound at the intake hose (after the intake box - it was off).
- Hoses seem to be intact (removed the intake box and the intake pipe (before and after the intake box) to see more thoroughly, but nothing).

I went to a mechanic with the car today. He put the computer on it, and saw the same code as me, P2262, and immediately said “You need a new low pressure turbo, aka, a full new turbo, 3000 GBP, please”. - I was there for 10 minutes, and I feel he may have been a bit too quick to judge it. Or?


Am I missing something I could check? I feel it could still be a leak somewhere, or it might be the MAP sensor(??) or another faulty sensor. I’m weirded out a bit by the 0.0 acceleration … Maybe someone else experienced something like it? Maybe it’s common?

Hope someone can help.

Thanks!

[Simmy]

check for any boost leaks with a smoke test check the intercooler for any splits or bowing a scan with vida would be an advantage as p codes are generic and not very good at pointing you to the exact cause also check the oil is not over filled as it seems you are experiencing limp mode .there are lots of possibility's good diagnostics is the way forward

[GrahamBrown1]

As simmy has said further investigation is needed, however it would not be the first time turbo failure has occurred on these. Access is difficult but removal of some pipework will confirm if indeed the small turbo has failed. It certainly sounds like it from your description.

[Oreax]

Thank you for both responses!

Originally Posted by Simmy

check for any boost leaks with a smoke test check the intercooler for any splits or bowing a scan with vida would be an advantage as p codes are generic and not very good at pointing you to the exact cause also check the oil is not over filled as it seems you are experiencing limp mode .there are lots of possibility's good diagnostics is the way forward

In limp mode I wouldn't be able to drive above a certain km/h, would I ? Seems to be no limit, the power is just not present at low RPM.
I've checked hoses visually, only, and I haven't found any place to help me with a smoke test, don't suppose I can hack together a DIY smoke test at home..?
I'll see if I could borrow a scan tool with vida from someone.
Oil level looks good.

Originally Posted by GrahamBrown1

As simmy has said further investigation is needed, however it would not be the first time turbo failure has occurred on these. Access is difficult but removal of some pipework will confirm if indeed the small turbo has failed. It certainly sounds like it from your description.

How do I properly confirm this? You mean removing the intake pipe on top to be able to properly see behind? - From here, how do I see if it's working as I assume I won't be able to turn on the car having no intake box at this point. - or I'm misunderstanding.

[Oreax]

If I have to cave and come to the conclusion that it's the turbo, which is it then? I haven't been able to properly spot it. Is it the Borgwarner for this model? - Anyone know?

Like this one:
https://br-turbo.com/new-turbocharge...search=D4204T5

[GMcL]

First of all I'll make it clear I have no experience of these four cylinder diesels.

My five cylinder car showed similar symptoms to yours,, it was the boost control valve.

Before you go throwing €€€€ at turbos it's probably worth paying the Volvo entrance fee, currently 250€ at my local Volvo dealership, to get the codes read and let them tell you what the issue is.

[Oreax]

Originally Posted by GMcL

First of all I'll make it clear I have no experience of these four cylinder diesels.

My five cylinder car showed similar symptoms to yours,, it was the boost control valve.

Before you go throwing €€€€ at turbos it's probably worth paying the Volvo entrance fee, currently 250€ at my local Volvo dealership, to get the codes read and let them tell you what the issue is.

Interesting... Being a bi-turbo, I switched the two BCVs around, figuring I'd move the problem somewhere else if I did that. I didn't feel a difference when driving, and the engine check light I had removed came back, however my readings seemed a bit less wild, like idle vacuum at -4.xx changed to -1.xx ..
Maybe the way I did my test here wouldn't have worked in a million years, I don't know?

[GrahamBrown1]

Originally Posted by Oreax

Thank you for both responses!






How do I properly confirm this? You mean removing the intake pipe on top to be able to properly see behind? - From here, how do I see if it's working as I assume I won't be able to turn on the car having no intake box at this point. - or I'm misunderstanding.

Remove the pipework off the small turbo and you can feel/check condition of the compressor wheel. Excessive movement or damage to the housing will confirm if the turbo is good or not. Some oil presence is normal in the pipework.

[Oreax]

Originally Posted by GrahamBrown1

Remove the pipework off the small turbo and you can feel/check condition of the compressor wheel. Excessive movement or damage to the housing will confirm if the turbo is good or not. Some oil presence is normal in the pipework.

Thanks! I can’t really see though how I go about removing the last pipe, as I only see one bolt at the top. Don’t want to risk taking too much apart and then not be able to put it back together

Oddly I haven’t been able to find any video guides either. I think it’s out of my reach now, unless someone else has more good points to try.

[Oreax]

So I had the car by another mechanic today, who actually went for a drive (as opposed to previous mechanic). They put the computer on it too and said they think it's the MAF sensor.

Any insight / take on that?

Of all the errors you could experience with a bad MAF sensor, I'm only seeing poor acceleration at low RPM, and it's not a sporadic thing, it's _all the time_ every time, whether engine is cold/warm, whatever.
I can however see it could break as it was driving in very warm weather ( ~34c for a few hours, in steep hills/mountains too ).