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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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V90 Heater Matrix Replacement QuestionViews : 591 Replies : 11Users Viewing This Thread : |
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May 3rd, 2019, 18:41 | #1 |
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V90 Heater Matrix Replacement Question
My 1998 V90 is showing symptoms of heater matrix leaking (coolant needs topping up, carpet feels damp, condensation on windscreen interior).
I have a feeling this is not going to be a quick and easy fix (nor cheap if I get the local garage to do it, despite the owner being Volvo friendly). For the time being, I have joined the two hoses that went to and from the heater with a length of copper pipe, bypassing the heater and avoiding further fluid loss. My question: Is there a web page somewhere, maybe even an entry on this forum, that explains what is involved in replacing the heater matrix? I'd be grateful to be pointed to such information. Thank you Martin |
May 3rd, 2019, 21:33 | #2 |
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I haven't read it all but besides seeming fairly in-depth in itself, also refers and links to another guide that looks helpful :
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...=heater+matrix Good luck!
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May 4th, 2019, 11:12 | #3 | |
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Many thanks indeed. I have bypassed the heater for the time being, so I have the whole summer to find a week to do it in. |
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May 6th, 2019, 13:23 | #4 |
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OEM matrix
Not sure how it is with a 960 heater matrix, but I replaced my 940 matrix for an aftermarket one (I believe Nissens), which turned out to be not nearly as good as the original one in terms of heat capacity. It is too much work to replace the matrix again, but if I would have to do it again I would certainly go for the original Volvo matrix, although it is 3 times the price. Or have the original one refurbished.
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May 6th, 2019, 16:02 | #5 | |
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May 7th, 2019, 11:00 | #6 |
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Worth a try
Could be worth a try, but there is not much space to fiddle around with the hoses (LHD). Furthermore I don't like to put any additional strain on the heater valve, as it is only made of plastic.
I heard this complaint from several people. If you look at the replacement matrix you will see that it has an aluminium core and I believe plastic end covers, whereas the original one is completely made of brass. With winters not as cold as they used to be I think I will just live with the lower heat output. |
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May 7th, 2019, 11:26 | #7 |
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The hose that comes from the head should go to the top matrix stub, the lower stub is the return and should go to the water pump inlet ultimately.
It's quite a while since i saw a red block so my memory is a bit hazy but i'm sure the valve is in the flow hose (from the head) that goes to the top stub and the other plain hose is the return. It's well worth fixing because not only will you get improved heater output but reduce the risk of air locks in the system that could potentially lead to HGF or other similar cooling related faults. Bear in mind the old matrix would have been slightly blocked at best and the new matrix isn't blocked at all so the output should automatically be higher with the new matrix. If it's lower but improves with prolonged idling (this part doesn't always happen but is a good indicator if it does) then the hoses are the wrong way round.
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May 8th, 2019, 09:43 | #8 | |
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The matrix mentioned in the forum page given by Laird Scooby cost something like £80. So it all needs to be weighed up. Even Volvo ones don't seem to last all that long. I had a 1998 940 and the matrix needed replacing in 2004 - so only about six years life in that case. From the green stains on the carpet when I bought the V90 nine years ago, the current heater matrix is its second one (at least). So less than ten years life. To have parts that verge on the impossible to install have a limited life as a real pain. Shame on Volvo for installing crap matrices. |
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May 13th, 2019, 12:27 | #9 |
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Forgive me for chiming in late,
I have done 4 of these matrix's (matrii?) I do have a spare one, you could try it... IIRC, It may be the same as a 940 matrix. I removed it from an Air conditioned Wentworth, the matrix pipes come out on an angle. Non air conditioned come out on a right angle. You could chance it with postage, I will get you a picture if you want. I will post to france if needed. Basically, glove box out, stereo cowling out, seats out help. You WILL NEED! 5.5mm socket on a 14" drive, a wobble or u/joint. Long extension bars. Follow the write-up, and take time to wash the carpets and sound deadening. You don't need to remove any of the top of the dash. Remove the center console, including the cubby box. (Don't forget the 10mm bolts either side of the bolster) It helps to unbolt the fuse box. Don't force the air box, Count the screws, There will be the few hidden on top of the box that will be a bastard to remove. Send me an email if you need help, I rarely come here anymore. [Removed]
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May 13th, 2019, 13:15 | #10 |
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As you asked, matrices.
Good method too, hope i never need it!
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