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S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
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‘New’ 06 XC70 jobs listViews : 480 Replies : 5Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Apr 23rd, 2018, 18:22 | #1 |
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‘New’ 06 XC70 jobs list
Having picked up my new XC70 D5 SE Lux, I though got I’d list the planned jobs and monitor progress here. Possibly ask the odd question too, as some things may just be too arcane.
The car was originally supplied by Mill Volvo in Harrogate and then had two owners before my brother bought it a couple of years ago. He passed it to me as he is changing job (actually having a year off and currently building a motor home for a year in and around France). I bought it with 124,500 miles on the clock and a full service history - annual as it never managed 18k in a year. The bodywork is all straight, but the headlight (bi xenons) plastic glass is somewhat faded and pitted. The six speed auto changes ok, except for an occasional hard downshift into 4th, which can be driven around although obviously not ideal. It was serviced at 123,500 miles (oil, filter plus air and pollen filters). So, jobs list at present includes: - hand brake shoes, as forum stories have scared me! - gearbox fluid change, with Mobil 3309 - oil and filter change, out of habit really - brake fluid, as I don’t know when last done - power steering fluid, again just because it’s old - replace fog lights with new aftermarket units - replace headlights with aftermarket shells and bi xenon projectors Anything else I should add? Mike |
Apr 23rd, 2018, 18:39 | #2 |
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Drip a little penetrant on the bleed nipples several times long before you do the brake fluid flush. View video(s) on how to message the caliper and bleed nipple so you don't shear them off.
Check the condition of the coolant. Also, perform the electric meter test for electrolytic propensity. Coolant in good shape keeps the electrolysis down and that equals longer lasting system parts. Sorry I don't have the procedure or voltages down but the method is well established. Make sure all 4 calipers' glide pins are lubed. You'll be removing the rears when you do the handbrake shoes so don't overlook the fronts. You'll be inspecting the boots and we caps on those boots. I found 2 caps off my last car with one boot chewed away. They're cheap and push through easily from the back of the caliper bracket. What is the matter with your current foglights? Check the battery terminals for corrosion. Make sure the jack is in place and the spare has air. Check the soft rubber elbow on the intake manifold which supplies vacuum to the IAT (Intake Air Thermostat) as they often break. Make sure the corresponding pair of similar elbows is intact on the lid of the air cleaner box. |
Apr 23rd, 2018, 18:44 | #3 |
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As above for the caliper bleeders, the rear ones may be particularly stuck if the fluid looks dark. If they seem stuck, purchase two new from Volvo already, don't put back old ones that have been forced on
I'd remove the serpentine belt and give all pulleys a check. These tend to seize at about your miles and always blow the engine on these D5 Perhaps check the cam belt was replaced, with quality parts and the water pump is original and not some cheap aftermarket one If you are new to Volvo, perhaps the most important maintenance tip is the quality (brands) to use for replacement parts. Forum members can advise on this
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Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ECTts0FSVSOT_c |
Apr 23rd, 2018, 22:24 | #4 |
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Check wishbone bushes, springs and shocks and all stearing and suspension parts.
The xc is heavy on the front end and when bought mine at 120k 5 years ago I have change the complete front end suspension. Don't cheep out on suspension bushes as I am changing mine again after 25k! Polybushes this time!
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Who said Volvos were build to last? 2.4t V70XC Auto 2001 165k D5 185 XC70 M66 2006 202k |
Apr 24th, 2018, 07:01 | #5 |
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Thanks all. Really useful.
Cambelt was done at 90k by P&R in Leeds, so hopefully OK at the moment. I’ll have a look at the serpentine belt when I get at the atf fluid and oil change. I am expecting to have to rebush the suspension, and probably do shocks at some point, but want to make sure the rest is likely to hold together first and it’s in use of course. Are polybushes worth while? There do seem to be a number of issues that can write off the cars at a relatively low mileage if Volvo’s service schedule is all that is done - atf and engine failure shouldn’t really happen so soon. I’ll, no doubt slowly, update as things get done. Thanks again Mike |
Apr 24th, 2018, 20:06 | #6 |
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Has yours got the electronic shock absorbers? I think as a Lux it will have.
Get under the car and check the condition and routing of the wires from the shockers, they can rub through if incorrectly routed (as done by P&R on mine) which then trashes the shocker in question as the wires can't be soldered. Don't get replacement shockers from Volvo, they want ~£1000 a corner, buy from Monroe for around £500 a pair. While you're doing shockers, do the springs and seats as well, I had a rear spring break but more common is front springs going. Good luck
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