handbrake/cable woes

[ThomasG]

So.. Finally I'm getting myself into changing rear brakes.

I'm out of free play on handbrake.
I heard stories about handbrake shoes delaminating and what may happen after.
MOT advisory that pads are getting thin.

I bought
Set of eicher pads
Set of eicher discdrums
Set of pagid handbrake shoes

Got remaining from works on front brakes
Copper grease
Tools

Now I've been watching YouTube instructions of "how to do it"..
It made me make an order of replacement handbrake springs

And now I wonder shall I replace the cables, too

Main question is: with next to no reserve left on handbrake as it is, will fitting new shoes and drums (discs) sort it out, or can it be alleviated only by replacing the cables?

If I want to get it done this weekend, I need to hurry with order..

So please, guys... Hurty with the answer

Thanks in advance.

Ah.. Also: are right and left cables the same? I've seen varying descriptions.

Car is 2003 V70 2.4 non turbo.

[savabill]

You need to check how much adjustment is left on the cable. Lift up the gaiter at the base of the handbrake lever and you should be able to see it. While you're changing the handbrake shoes, you can check the cables and if needed, change at a later date.

[aland]

In my opinion, it's not worth opening up the handbrake assembly unless you also plan to fit the manual adjustment parts to replace the solid bar (search ebay for 'volvo handbrake adjustment').
These transform it from rubbish handbrake performance to excellent.
I have fitted these to both my cars recently.

You probably don't need to change the cables. I would also suggest that you ONLY use genuine Volvo shoes, or if another brand, check they have the flats at the top/bottom when fitted. Most aftermarket don't, and don't work very well.

[cheshired5]

If you're out of adjustment, you'll still be out of adjustment if you don't replace the cables.

I would also think about the quality of the components you've chosen so far.
The handbrake setup works brilliantly as originally designed but the margins of fit and operation are so fine, I would only ever use genuine Volvo or ATE parts.

There are endless stories of ineffective handbrakes when doing the job either incompletely or using poor fitting parts but you will find no such stories when folk replace everything using high quality parts.

For a first timer, replacing the handbrake assembly can be fiddly and time consuming so you want to be certain of a good handbrake first time as revisiting will undo any "savings" made.
Savings is in inverted commas because my ATE setup was as cheap as anything more inferior yet works perfectly with no manual adjusters needed. They weren't there when new so aren't needed if doing the job correctly.
The left and right cables on my P2 were the ssme so I would imagine yours are too but Vida is the definitive answer to parts queries so always check there before buying.

[ThomasG]

So..

Re: handbrake lever gaiter- I don't need to lift it. Months ago I tightened that as far as it could go. The handbrake works, even if it still goes a bit high, but I feel its time to do something about it.

The dilemma I have is:

The cables aren't that expensive, but they will take a hell lot of trim stripping to get to.

I may be OK changing only the shoes/discs/pads.

Or not.

And if I don't change the cables, I will end up with having to strip rear brakes yet again to change the cables.

From one of the posts above I gather that there is a chance that I wouldn't need to change 2 "long" cables, instead I could replace short "link" between main cables and handbrake lever.
And I can do that at any time.

Is this correct?

Re: parts choice:

True, for drums and pads it was cheapest I could get with guarantee.
Shoes- few opinions of fellow Volvo owners not having any issues with pagid shoes.

In the end.. I still don't know. To change the main cables, or not to change the main cables.. That is the question..

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by ThomasG

In the end.. I still don't know. To change the main cables, or not to change the main cables.. That is the question..

The answer depends on whether you want a guaranteed result or a result based on probabilities or likelihood.
Considering the small difference in cost and time, I would go the guaranteed route every time.

[ThomasG]

Originally Posted by cheshired5

The answer depends on whether you want a guaranteed result or a result based on probabilities or likelihood.
Considering the small difference in cost and time, I would go the guaranteed route every time.

Cables ordered.

Now to find out how to get sentre console out..

[aland]

How many miles is your car on?
My '04 is on 257k and the cables are original. They must have stretched a bit, but the manual adjusters more than take car of that, and as you have found out, changing the cables is a PITA.
Fitting the adjusters is 10 mins per side...

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by ThomasG

Now to find out how to get sentre console out..

Remove pen holder, gear stick trim surround, 4 torx screws and the attached lower side trims both sides.
Fully slacken handbrake adjuster to allow the handbrake lever to be pulled vertically then lift off the console.
https://youtu.be/GrYF_06K_ok

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by aland

Fitting the adjusters is 10 mins per side...

..... and subsequent adjustment requires both rear wheels to be removed whereas handbrake cable adjustment takes 2 minutes.