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Oil Filter replacement

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Old Nov 16th, 2007, 20:47   #11
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Don't really know. But after checking that the level is a bit above max check that it's either Mann or Volvo and if not change it.

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Old Nov 16th, 2007, 20:58   #12
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Originally Posted by jaydbass View Post
Just had a service done recently and noticed the oil light flash on for a second after startup this morning. Been a busy, busy day and now it's dark so haven't checked oil level. Is this the kind of thing you guys are talking about with the non-return valve on some filters and lower oil pressure at startup?
Probably as it will take a small amount of time to fill the oilways then build up the pressure.
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Old Nov 16th, 2007, 21:16   #13
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I was told Man make the Volvo filters. Is that true?
It seems so , but to VOLVO ( Not Mann ) Specification Volvo did a test on about 10 non volvo oil filters about 10 years ago and the differences were remarkable , one filter casing split when exposed to an overpressure which volvo filters could cope with . Some came loose and leaked in sub zero conditions , some had oil bypassing the actual element inside the can letting unfiltered oil into the engine ...The volvo filter material traps particles a lot smaller than on the others .
I have been using a VOLVO oil filter on a classic car for many years and it is remarkable how much cleaner the oil is when dipped ..
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Old Nov 21st, 2007, 23:32   #14
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Don't really know. But after checking that the level is a bit above max check that it's either Mann or Volvo and if not change it.

john
It's a Mann. Thankfully it seems. Got a bit of spare time 2moro so will check levels etc.
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Old Nov 22nd, 2007, 02:19   #15
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Im working on a 'Priming Button'
Push it and it kils the Glow plug relay/Engine control
Providing the batterys up to standard, A 5 second Push'n'hold before you start the car, should bring oil pressure up for the first start of the day.
Ive slick50'd my car. Refilling next service.
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Old Nov 22nd, 2007, 11:46   #16
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Slick 50 has had some very bad press especially in the U.S as they have bee sued over false advertising. Do a serch on google, they did a test on 20 engines 10 that had slick in & 10 that didnt. They then ran them dry & the slick 50 lot failed hours before the standard lot failed, There were may other issues as well but I cant remember off hand, I do know from experiance that it can cause the turbo bearings to slip & not roll thus causing flat spots. Here are some of many.

http://www.visordown.com/forums/arch.../t-165389.html
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/legal/s50pre.html
http://www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/snake_oil.txt
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Old Nov 22nd, 2007, 22:15   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monkeh View Post
Im working on a 'Priming Button'
Push it and it kils the Glow plug relay/Engine control
Providing the batterys up to standard, A 5 second Push'n'hold before you start the car, should bring oil pressure up for the first start of the day.
Ive slick50'd my car. Refilling next service.

Don't know what car you have but on the D5 engine manual Volvo print in big bold letters under the oil to use Do not use extra additives. These can damage the engine. As they make engines capabable of 2.6 million miles without wearing out I'd be inclined to follow their advice.

Roy
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Old Nov 22nd, 2007, 22:32   #18
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Me too, the quality of a good oil these days will probably be better than that of an additive due to the Millions spent on development compared with 100 or so thousand (if that) on the additives.
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Old Nov 25th, 2007, 14:07   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyMacDonald View Post
Don't know what car you have but on the D5 engine manual Volvo print in big bold letters under the oil to use Do not use extra additives. These can damage the engine. As they make engines capabable of 2.6 million miles without wearing out I'd be inclined to follow their advice.

Roy
All manufacturers say that, simply because they cant speak for other makers products. It's gives them a get out clause for their vehicle warranty too, if your engine fails under warranty and you've put an aditive in there, then they'll blame the aditive no matter what.
You'll notice they also tell you not to fit different tyres than were originally supplied with the vehicle, so say it came with Michelins, you cant fit goodyears?

I think all most of these aditives are fine if used sensibly, but if you use good quality oil, then they already have such aditives included in them anyway. Things like slick 50 can improve crap oil, but chances are they'll have little benefit to good oil. Essentially all oil aditives do is either increase the viscosity of the existing oil ,to reduce consumption or 'synthetically fortify' the existing oil to reduce wear. So either use a thicker oil or fully synthetic depending on what you want to acheive.

I used some Slick50 gearbox aditive on my old car and it did make the gearshift smoother.
I've also used some Wynns stop leak, which does actually rejuvenate weeping rubber seals, well they stop weeping!
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Old Nov 25th, 2007, 14:53   #20
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I've also used some Wynns stop leak, which does actually rejuvenate weeping rubber seals, well they stop weeping!
I don't really want to go off topic but,this stuff is fine if you are going to sell the car within the next 12 months or so, but all it does it to swell the rubber in the seals to close the gap, The problem been that they swell all the engine seals, This in turn makes them press harder on the sealing surface upping the wear rate of every seal in the engine.
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