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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Electronic IgnitionViews : 3301 Replies : 51Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jul 28th, 2020, 12:36 | #31 | |
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The list of the heads is the one i sent in a little while ago, I have a spare the low compression head by the look of the measurements so i will prepare that one ready I'm not sure if ill fit bigger inlets as yet but i also have a list of all the parts needed... i will need new valves anyway so might go down that route... thanks for the 123 info i will get it from Amazon as they do seem to have the correct maps for unleaded..plus as you said i hope to get some advice from them. I have been buying parts from both Brookhouse and Amazon Cars since I've owned the Volvo...both been very helpful. As i said my Amazon is only a cruiser a have a competition car for out and out speed |
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Jul 28th, 2020, 12:48 | #32 | |
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As i dont do that many miles a year in the Amazon i dont mind running premium fuel..many thanks |
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Aug 11th, 2020, 09:33 | #33 |
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I have searched high and low and cant find my timing gun....
Can anybody recommend a good one and is it worth getting one that can set the timing on digitally and see the engine speeds ? |
Aug 11th, 2020, 13:17 | #34 |
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BP;
...you don't really need one! Just follow my steps for Static Timing, and you'll be within a degree or two, and check function of your Ign Sys (except for Centrifugal Advance) at the same time! See: https://www.sw-em.com/Volvo%20Igniti...tatic%20Timing Cheers |
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Aug 11th, 2020, 20:30 | #35 |
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I went for PowerSpark for my B20A Amazon. I've had it for few years now and it's been totally reliable (touches wood quickly!) It didn't cost the earth and it has saved me the frustration I've previously had with poor-quality condensers on other cars.
The only downside is that if you have a rev-counter then you probably need to budget for a RVI-RVC conversion board to make it work again. I got one from Spiyda that does the trick. It was easy enough to install and calibration was straightforward. |
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Aug 16th, 2020, 10:47 | #36 |
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It looks like its cheaper to get a 123 Dizzy from the manufacture in Holland
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Aug 20th, 2020, 12:31 | #37 |
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This amazon is driving me around the bend...
I got a timing gun, set it at the correct settings in the book ( it was slightly out) Drove it today and the damn thing is slightly worse. I had the exact same problem last year it runs ok until you hit a long hill, you would swear its not getting enough fuel, but checked all that and even fitted a new fuel tank to get rid of the crud in the old one.. problem still there. I then changed the points, condenser, plugs etc and it was fine... But a few weeks ago without doing anything too it the problem returned.. On a long hill it just goes flat and missing....again you swear it was fuel.. But it only went when I changed the ignition parts.... i think its something do do with sitting around for so long during covid, but i did start it every week and warmed it up fully.... Its cant be points and plugs again as its not done many miles since!!! Something is breaking down under load ? I've had coils go before but usually they just stop....im really getting pi***d off with it now.. Last edited by Bracpan; Aug 20th, 2020 at 12:37. |
Aug 20th, 2020, 12:38 | #38 |
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What carb or carbs have you got?
If fitting the 123 dizzy ideally you should also fit the blue Bosch coil, I’d do that before messing with the carb unless you have a Stromberg?
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Aug 20th, 2020, 14:28 | #39 |
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Its a Zenith carb I know about SU's but know B all about Zenith...
But i still believe its to do with the ignition ... |
Aug 20th, 2020, 17:11 | #40 |
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Have you checked the operation of the advance mechanism with your timing light? Run the engine from idle up to about 2500 - 3000 RPM (wherever maximum advance occurs) and check for smooth and correct advance with your timing. Repeat 2 -3 times to check for consistency.
If the advance mechanism works as it should, carefully examine the spark plugs, coil and spark plug high voltage wires, the rotor on the distributor, the distributor cap wire connections and the inside of the distributor cap and the tower on the high voltage terminal of the coil. What you are looking for are signs of carbon tracking which can lead to flashover and ignition misfire. On the wires you will have to pull back the protective rubber boots to expose the insulated end of the wire to determine if there is any surface tracking on the wire. Misfires due to carbon tracking can be engine load sensitive and can be sensitive to atmospheric conditions. Tracking may cause misfires in cool / damp conditions and then vanish under hot / dry conditions. If the timing is good and there are no signs of flashovers the next time you start to suffer from the problem, remove the plugs and have a look at the porcelain surrounding the center electrode. Does the color indicate that they are running on the lean side? If so, you might be getting lean misfire and perhaps your problem really is a fuel problem, not an ignition problem. |
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