Amazon: Electronic Ignition

[TomTom]

I never looked back after getting the 123 ignition. I’ve saved £££ and countless frustrations fiddling with points gaps and grumbling about poor starting. I’m not super mechanical so for me it was perfect fit and forget.

[Derek UK]

A good quality Bosch Blue 3 ohm coil is all you need. Lucas Sport or similar ones from firms like Burtons are fine too. 3 ohm is the important spec. Beware the cheap Brazilian or Mexico made ones from VW parts suppliers. They may actually be made by a Bosch company but are often of poor quality. Ford used to use Bosch Blues that were made in Spain and they are fine. I'd happily buy used ones of those if clean and tidy. Although 123 may have built in circuitry that can cope with the Bosch red, nominally 1.5ohms, there is no need to use it and put unnecessary strain on the electronics.
Absolutely don't use a Bosch Red to replace the standard remote coil on the late Amazons, 140 and 164's.

[arcturus]

That's what I use on my B16 with 123

[c1800]

Originally Posted by arcturus

That's what I use on my B16 with 123

Looking to clarify, what is “that’s”?

[arcturus]

Originally Posted by c1800

Looking to clarify, what is “that’s”?

A picture saves 1000 words

[Bracpan]

Originally Posted by CLIVERALLY

I use Powerspark ignition..its been very good so far..cheap? Not as cheap as some but have proved itself over the years.
123..programmable is ok if you want to uprate everything else to wrong the last few fractions of bhp..but is very very expensive if a new dizzy ain't needed

I could use the Power Spark as the engine is standard at the moment and as you said save a lot of money and get the benefit of electronic Ignition. (less fiddling with points and condensers)

But go for the 123 only when i upgrade the motor..Carbs, Head, Exhaust, cam etc..in the future.

I appreciate every ones input and advice

[Burdekin]

Kassie has a E head available, I won't need it.

Ben from Tinus Tuning didn't recommend I upgrade my CR other than change to the 0.85mm head gasket. B20A head with 0.85mm head gasket, TT3 cam, single Stromberg, 7kg flywheel and 2" exhaust is what I'm going for. The single carb will prevent any real top end performance I imagine but the single Stromberg B20A matches the B20B up to 3500rpm even with the C cam and higher CR. I think the dual SUs actually hurt performance low down due to the slower air flow through both carbs. This is just my assumption. With the higher lift TT3 cam I should get more HP at all rev range. I want to keep max HP under 5000rpm and improve low down torque and acceleration. I plan on doing a Dyno before and after to see how things go.

[Ron Kwas]

Burdekin;

"SUs actually hurt performance low down due to the slower air flow through both carbs." I can't agree here, sorry...it is for good reason that SUs (and ZSs for that matter) are called "constant velocity" ...

Cheers

[Burdekin]

Originally Posted by Ron Kwas

Burdekin;

"SUs actually hurt performance low down due to the slower air flow through both carbs." I can't agree here, sorry...it is for good reason that SUs (and ZSs for that matter) are called "constant velocity" ...

Cheers

Hmm. Through the piston fair enough Ron but the cross sectional area either side of the piston are fixed. Small opening through the piston, air would increase in speed but slow down as it fills the other side. This is only my thinking. Smaller SUs would have faster air flow at low rpm and hence be more responsive and produce more power at low rpm.

[Ron Kwas]

B;

If the "piston" you are referring to is the Dashpot, they you are not understanding the function or principle of the CV carb...and "cross sectional area either side of the piston" is irrelivant, only cross-sectional area a Venturi vs. mass of ingested air is relevant...Dashpot vertical position is variable, and adjust all by itself, to keep velocity unchanged at Venturi!

Ref: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7GRAcqDySog

Cheers