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1961 Volvo PV544 in Holland

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Old Jan 19th, 2019, 18:13   #571
Derek UK
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Horn when stationary? Very useful when the car in front starts to roll back when you are stopped in traffic. OK, you're officially driving but I bet most of us have used the horn when parked for both good and bad reasons.
Not so nice when kids are left in a car and they play tunes on it until the parents come back and give them a clip round the ear. Whoops, can't do that, a mild telling off will have to do.
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Old Yesterday, 10:17   #572
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Originally Posted by Derek UK View Post
Horn when stationary? Very useful when the car in front starts to roll back when you are stopped in traffic. OK, you're officially driving but I bet most of us have used the horn when parked for both good and bad reasons.
Not so nice when kids are left in a car and they play tunes on it until the parents come back and give them a clip round the ear. Whoops, can't do that, a mild telling off will have to do.
In these circumstances your ignition would be switched on. also covered by- and they need to warn others of their presence. Just can't see any reason why you would want to by pass the ignition switch. BTW, I'm just as guilty as the rest.
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Old Yesterday, 16:08   #573
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If you consider the horn to be part of a safety system then perhaps that explains why it is often operational regardless of the ignition.

I tried to find definitive information on the interweb but couldn't - I found lots of references to Audi owners where surprised their horns couldn't be used to warn an oncoming vehicle when they were parked (with the engine and ignition switched off).

I think I'm going to wire mine to "always live"
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1961 Volvo PV544 the quick and easy in between project(!)
1981 Mercedes 300D <=> 230 diesel to petrol conversion project
1965 Series 2a Station Wagon mega build
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Old Yesterday, 16:30   #574
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Default Results of my alternator wiring head scratching

The car (when bought) already had an alternator fitted but for some reason some parts of the wiring were half connected to the old voltage regulator - and there was a whole load of spliced in mess to make it all work.

To be honest I took one look at it all and thought "that's going in the bin" - I couldn't be bothered to try and understand what had been done and why.

This has meant that I've had to toddle off to the interweb to try and understand what is going on - well what should be going on - and how it would be best to re-wire the car.

Looking at the Volvo wiring diagram they seem to use the main / large connector on the starter motor as a central point from which the rest of the vehicle is powered. This results in a nice single connection to the +tve terminal on the battery. The original wiring route for the power charging side of the system was dynamo to regulator to the terminal on the starter motor...

...the position and relationship between the positions of the battery (storage), alternator (power generation) and the rest of the electrical system (load / usage) got me thinking and searching about for an ideal arrangement.

After much reading I found this site =>

http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...witworks.shtml

In the link above there is a nice explanation of how regulators work (for people like me who struggle with electrickery). I particularly liked the concept that the best place to measure the requirements of an electrical system is from a central point where the power generation, storage and usage meet.

So after checking that the alternator is indeed a three wire system...



...I've come up with the following plan



I intend to fit a central connecting point on the inside of the engine bay on the alternator side of the engine and run the main power feed through into the passenger foot well where the buzz bars for the fuse box and ignition switch will be housed. After the fuse box the wires will be run throughout the vehicle as described previously to the other two "electrical connection areas".

I think I'm getting used to this electrickery.

Exposure does help. For example: I now realise that the charging warning light comes on because of a "switch" in the regulator fitted to the alternator - that's the point where the magic happens... (!)
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Old Yesterday, 19:19   #575
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Army;

Your sketch looks OK, and if you believe you understand the Alt (or Gen) based charging Sys, great! I agree a "Three-Wire Alt" should always be fitted to retain function of the AMP Indicator...anything less is just silly... See also: http://www.sw-em.com/altkit_addition...ire_Alternator ...you may find other useful info on that page as it pertains to vintage Volvos, and Alt conversions thereof.
Your understanding of the differences in wiring between Gens (where ouput must be routed through VReg and its Cut-Out Contact, see: http://www.sw-em.com/Bosch%20Generat...ut-out_contact ) and Alt, (where Output can be wired directly to into Elec Sys because uni-directional current carrying nature of rectifiers makes this unnecessary), is also correct.
On this page (http://www.sw-em.com/elecramb.htm) which discusses the difference between Voltmeters and Ampmeters to monitor a vehicular elec sys, I have included the "H" diagram, which might help you further understand electrical generation, storage and usage, and current paths in a vehicle, and the way those play together.

Cheers
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Old Today, 14:55   #576
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Quote:
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Army;

Your sketch looks OK, and if you believe you understand the Alt (or Gen) based charging Sys, great! I agree a "Three-Wire Alt" should always be fitted to retain function of the AMP Indicator...anything less is just silly... See also: http://www.sw-em.com/altkit_addition...ire_Alternator ...you may find other useful info on that page as it pertains to vintage Volvos, and Alt conversions thereof.
Your understanding of the differences in wiring between Gens (where ouput must be routed through VReg and its Cut-Out Contact, see: http://www.sw-em.com/Bosch%20Generat...ut-out_contact ) and Alt, (where Output can be wired directly to into Elec Sys because uni-directional current carrying nature of rectifiers makes this unnecessary), is also correct.
On this page (http://www.sw-em.com/elecramb.htm) which discusses the difference between Voltmeters and Ampmeters to monitor a vehicular elec sys, I have included the "H" diagram, which might help you further understand electrical generation, storage and usage, and current paths in a vehicle, and the way those play together.

Cheers
Thanks Ron,

I'm the first to admit I need a bit of virtual support with this - I'm much more at home figuring out hydro-mechanical circuits such as old fashioned automatic transmission valve bodies - but - as I said above exposure and familiarity helps...
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