1961 Volvo PV544 in Holland

[old fart]

Sorry, I bought it at a car show.

[adarvasi]

Army, is this what you are looking for?
https://classicvolvorestoration.com/...ll-instep.html
https://classicvolvorestoration.com/...ll&results=192
https://classicvolvorestoration.com/...-panel-rh.html
The insteps aren’t cheap!
Cheers

[Army]

Originally Posted by adarvasi

Army, is this what you are looking for?
https://classicvolvorestoration.com/...ll-instep.html
https://classicvolvorestoration.com/...ll&results=192
https://classicvolvorestoration.com/...-panel-rh.html
The insteps aren’t cheap!
Cheers

The first two links are the bits I'm talking about - they are indeed rather expensive.

I'm just off now to do a bit of head scratching to see if I can come up with a reasonable plan that doesn't involve too much work but also that will look more or less like it should be there.

[Army]

...translating Swedish wiring diagrams into English with the help of google translate

{
Indicator relay some how got confused with "flashing lights for sausages"!
}

I got distracted and found the differential cage calling my name today. Behind the scenes there's been a fair amount of cocking about going on trying to get the correct parts. The side gears into which the axle shafts fit were showing signs of falling to bits =>



If you look closely there's signs of nasty gashes or cuts or scrapes which is the running surface slowly starting to peel / wear away from cogs. I found replacements via the VkV club here in Holland. VP and others couldn't supply them any more.

I also got new shims that fit under these "side" cogs - I call them side cogs because they stay on their sides as the axle shafts fit in them - strangely they came "warped" =>



I haven't seen warped shims like this before but I'm pretty sure they are meant to be like this - they are adding a bit of friction force which is what a limited slip differential would be doing. Note: this isn't a limited slip differential - it is what is called an open differential - but most differentials (that I've fixed up at least) often have a specification for how tight these cogs should mesh. (I can't find the specification for this differential however)



So anyway the new shims have been fitted - took a bit of fiddling about to get them in there however as the warped shims needed to be compressed to get the satellite "non driving" cogs in position.



As you can see I used some large washers, nuts and bolts to help hold the sides cogs in position

Refitting the pin that holds the satellite cogs in position with in the differential cage =>



Making sure the hole for the spring pin is correctly orientated.



Note - I left the spring pin in position when I took the differential cogs out of the cage. These spring pins are easy to damage when fitting - if they haven't been mashed up on disassembly it is best to leave them half in place. Careful tapping with a "just the right size" punch is necessary



Fitting the crown wheel:-

Note I left a big splodge of spray filler (I think it was / is spray filler anyway) to mark the position of the crown wheel on the cage. This can be wiped off with thinner before refitting.



Always best to take your time fitting crown wheels - they do need to fit properly against the differential cage. There are "wobble" tolerances to consider! (See book)



It is best practice to replace the bolts that hold the crown wheel in place - I'm just going to Loctite mine in place once I'm sure the crown wheel is in a good position - but that needs to be done later...

...next I need to find those bearings I bought and start to make some measurements...

[Derek UK]

The wavy shims provide just enough gear movement to allow the loadings to balance out. It would be very hard to keep the loading on the gears constant with fixed shims. You'd have to set it up with more slack than needed to stop tight spots which would cause extra wear and generate more heat. Small thinner versions of these can be used as anti-vibration lock washers instead of the thicker offset split washers but those are of course crushed flat.

[Army]

...but I'm getting there.

The comfort blanket for the custom made wiring loom has been well worth the extra expenditure - the Dymo heat shrink labels are helping me a lot



I think I've (now) got most the wiring I need to complete the job. I've just ordered a new fuse box and a box for six micro sized relays that I'll be fitting on the passenger's side (RHS) inside the cabin on the bulkhead.

I've gone extra large on some of the wiring - 2.5mm^2 for some parts of the wiring loom where it is only specified on the Volvo wiring diagram as needing 1.5mm^2. This is over kill but allows a bit of extra grace for things like plumbing in the tow hitch socket - so now I know the wires are up to what ever else gets plugged in there.

Extra wires that won't immediately be used (if ever) are also going in so I can upgrade to having a rear fog light or a heated rear windscreen for example.

I've done my best to future proof as much as possible but I realise it will probably not be the case!

[Ron Kwas]

Army;

Those labels are OK, because they mean you don't need to refer to Wiring Diagram, I suppose, but I recommend you put some clear heat-shrink tubing over them to 1, protect them, and 2, hold them in place after in a couple of years, the adhesive of the labels looses interest (and grip!).

Also, when replacing wires, increasing gauge/cross-sectional area is certainly OK, but be certain you specify 600V (double thickness from typical 300V) insulation thickness for all automotive work!

Finally, beware of using china trash fuse/relay panels! Critically inspect for things like wire gauge, contact materials quality and workmanship before installing! I'd personally rather use a 50 year old refurbished Volvo FB than some shiny, new, but inferior junk product which will disappoint at the first opportunity! Know thine replacement parts!

Cheers

[blueosprey90]

Army, I know you have it off, but is it a necessary step to pull the entire rear axle off the car to get at the differential?

Or is the differential something that can be pulled with the axle still on the car? And the car up on jack stands?

[Army]

Originally Posted by Ron Kwas

Army;

Those labels are OK, because they mean you don't need to refer to Wiring Diagram, I suppose, but I recommend you put some clear heat-shrink tubing over them to 1, protect them, and 2, hold them in place after in a couple of years, the adhesive of the labels looses interest (and grip!).

Also, when replacing wires, increasing gauge/cross-sectional area is certainly OK, but be certain you specify 600V (double thickness from typical 300V) insulation thickness for all automotive work!

Finally, beware of using china trash fuse/relay panels! Critically inspect for things like wire gauge, contact materials quality and workmanship before installing! I'd personally rather use a 50 year old refurbished Volvo FB than some shiny, new, but inferior junk product which will disappoint at the first opportunity! Know thine replacement parts!

Cheers

Thanks for your comments Ron - this is an area I'm not very experienced with

I think you've got the wrong end of the stick about the labels though. The labels in the picture above are bits of heat shrink that have information printed on them - there's no glue. They get heat shrunk onto the wires just like normal heat shrink.

As a back up I've used the original colours for the wire insulation as per the Volvo wiring diagrams. The labels help my short term memory loss problems and will probably be covered up by an outer covering.

The components I've bought have been bought from a chap who seems to be rather honest about the stuff he sells - on parts of his website he calls things "cheap crap" if they are and makes clear that's he's only offering a budget version just in case someone feels like a gamble. I agree that in many cases old original parts are better than new but in my case the old has been messed about with too much for my liking...

[Army]

Originally Posted by blueosprey90

Army, I know you have it off, but is it a necessary step to pull the entire rear axle off the car to get at the differential?

Or is the differential something that can be pulled with the axle still on the car? And the car up on jack stands?

It is best to remove the entire axle as to remove the crown wheel and differential cage assembly you should be expanding the outer casing by a prescribed amount. (That's why I made the expander)

See =>

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showt...277319&page=24





Even if you just yank the crown wheel free (naughty naughty!) the pinion is still within the outer casing