|
S80 '98-'06 / S60 '00-'09 / V70 & XC70 '00-'07 General Forum for the P2-platform S60 / V70 / XC70 / S80 models |
Information |
|
Control arm bushViews : 711 Replies : 12Users Viewing This Thread : |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
Jul 7th, 2020, 13:09 | #1 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Nov 5th, 2023 09:52
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Derry
|
Control arm bush
Hello folks, just seeking a bit of advice please.
I have a rattle that seems to be coming from the front os. It happens sometimes when I go over a rough bit of road, otherwise it just seems to happen totally randomly on smooth road. I have checked all drop links and track rod ends (replaced last year) and all the rubber is in good shape with no abnormal play. What I did notice is that the inner wishbone bushes on both sides are split, I guess my question is could this be the cause of the rattle? Steering is unaffected as of yet so I'm assuming there isn't major play in them? Next question is it feasible to replace the bushes or should I just buy the control arms? Lastly I have the timing kit to change the timing belt & aux belt this weekend along with associated pulleys / tensioner, is there anything you guys recommend doing or checking while I'm in the area and have access? Thanks for your help 😊 |
Jul 7th, 2020, 13:38 | #2 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Jul 26th, 2021 21:24
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Coldnada
|
The first thing is to use only the good brands. If this is the original belt, I would not do the water pump. For the belt use Contitech or Gates. For the control arms may try Lemforder or get the rear bushes from Volvo and have them pressed in - best option. Front ones last longer, but you can try some polyflex for those. I would say, this split in the bush may knock but not rattle. Rattle may be torn spring seats (Sachs or CRP/Rein), or maybe the end links, anti-roll ball bushes or more rarely the shocks (but I believe the genuine ones are less likely to rattle).
__________________
Several Volvo Repair Videos https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...ECTts0FSVSOT_c |
Jul 7th, 2020, 16:06 | #3 |
Flaccid Member
Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 16:09
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Norwich
|
faster to replace the whole control arm tbh especially if you are doing 2x
__________________
2001 Volvo S60 T5 SE 2.3 Geartronic (Scrapped) 2007 Volvo S60 T5 SE 2.4 Geartronic (Sold) 2008 Volvo V70 D5 SE Sport Geartronic (Current) |
Jul 7th, 2020, 16:07 | #4 |
Flaccid Member
Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 16:09
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Norwich
|
while you are in the wheel arch, degrease + lube up all the bolts ready for the control arm removal
__________________
2001 Volvo S60 T5 SE 2.3 Geartronic (Scrapped) 2007 Volvo S60 T5 SE 2.4 Geartronic (Sold) 2008 Volvo V70 D5 SE Sport Geartronic (Current) |
Jul 8th, 2020, 03:45 | #5 | |
Aged Member
Last Online: Feb 20th, 2024 09:47
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Weeting
|
Quote:
__________________
Regards, Bashy MY07 (56 plate) V70 Geartronic 2.4 D5 185bhp 173k, 17", full leather, an auto-dimming mirror and auto wipers are the best it can do - I have added (poorly) limo black, rear camera and parking sensors |
|
Jul 8th, 2020, 09:46 | #6 | |
Junior Member
Last Online: Nov 5th, 2023 09:52
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Derry
|
Thanks for your input everyone, very helpful.
Quote:
|
|
Jul 8th, 2020, 19:53 | #7 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Dec 26th, 2021 13:42
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Crewe
|
Front crank and oil pump seals and gasket.
__________________
2002 S60 SE D5 Manual 209000 miles |
Jul 31st, 2020, 13:35 | #8 |
Junior Member
Last Online: Nov 5th, 2023 09:52
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Derry
|
Update
Sorry to drag this post up again guys. I have replaced the timing and aux belts and have removed both control arms and strut assemblies with the intention of replacing both control arms and any bits that need done on the suspension to hopefully rectify the god awful knocking noise I've been hearing this last while.
Although both inner bushes in the control arms are showing wear at full stretch there is absolutely no abnormal play in them, and I've tested this with a 6ft wrecking bar between the subframe and the control arm. The springs and struts are all in OK shape with the strut mount bearings and spring seats in passable condition with no major play in them. And as mentioned before the tie rods and track rods are in good shape. This leaves the ball joints. The ball joint from the offending side seems to be OK but the rubber boot around it has pulled away from the bottom and when I push it to the extreme in any direction there's a notable metallic clunk however no vertical play. Could you have a look / listen to the attached vid and offer your opinions if the ball joint is bad? Thanks. https://youtu.be/E2TYrIsazSg |
Jul 31st, 2020, 15:04 | #9 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Dec 26th, 2021 13:42
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Crewe
|
The balljoint would fail an MOT so needs changing.
The reason would be boot no longer prevents ingress of dirt (or words similar). In its current condition, water will get in, wash out what's left of the grease, corrode and seize the balljoint and most likely snap. This is as good as guaranteed.
__________________
2002 S60 SE D5 Manual 209000 miles |
Jul 31st, 2020, 15:17 | #10 | |
Junior Member
Last Online: Nov 5th, 2023 09:52
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Derry
|
Quote:
|
|
The Following User Says Thank You to Pauljude For This Useful Post: |
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
|
|