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B230FD Cranks but won’t start

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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 20:04   #41
Volvo940GL
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Originally Posted by 37 RUBY View Post
Are you happy this is correct for your engine?

Did you replace one lead at a time or could you have got any mixed up by mistake?

I have checked my cables many times. It’s correct
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 20:05   #42
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I've found a guy on YouTube working on a Volvo 240 with similar issues

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dQsV31_ML2c

It may have some processes within you haven't tried
Thanks for your support

I have watched that video before and I have to say I have checked everything he’s doing. Still no sign of life in my B230F
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 20:18   #43
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Ok so one last thought/idea from me today then....

Have you tried a timing strobe on as you crank to confirm the spark is happening when it is supposed to?
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 20:43   #44
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Ok so one last thought/idea from me today then....

Have you tried a timing strobe on as you crank to confirm the spark is happening when it is supposed to?
I’ll check tomorrow
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 20:49   #45
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I’ll check tomorrow
I'm guessing you will be out and about somewhere tomorrow through the day, if you pass a car spares/accessories/tool shop, see if you can pick up a NOID light so you can also test that you're getting a signal to the injectors.
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 21:15   #46
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I'm guessing you will be out and about somewhere tomorrow through the day, if you pass a car spares/accessories/tool shop, see if you can pick up a NOID light so you can also test that you're getting a signal to the injectors.

You know that obd blinking code to force those injectors to open and close? I tried that.
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 21:18   #47
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[QUOTE=Laird Scooby;2593439]I'm guessing you will be out and about somewhere tomorrow through the day, if you pass a car spares/accessories/tool shop, see if you can pick up a NOID light so you can also test that you're getting a signal to the injectors. [/

Crank sensor have 165ohm
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 21:59   #48
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You know that obd blinking code to force those injectors to open and close? I tried that.
That might work but doesn't necessarily mean the injectors are pulsing as they should when being cranked/running. That's why i suggested getting a NOID light so you can actually prove the point.
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 22:22   #49
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This guy http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...=287723&page=3 changed his ignition amplifier in the end. See page 3 of the post.
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Old Jan 26th, 2020, 23:08   #50
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This guy http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...=287723&page=3 changed his ignition amplifier in the end. See page 3 of the post.
It's possible it's the ignition amplifier module but it doesn't fit the usual failure pattern. For the cost of one, it could still be worth throwing a new one at it.

If a new one is fitted, clean the heatsink it bolts onto with a solvent cleaner such as brake cleaner, isoprpyl alcohol, methylated spirits (denatured alcohol) or similar - NEVER use an abrasive on it!

Then smear some heatsink compound on the back of the new module to give a thin but even coatinf, as you mate the module to the heatsink, give it a wiggle to help spread the compound further.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Servisol-...e/362527726443


In case it doesn't translate readily to Norwegian ^^^^^ Massage the tube before the first use and then each time after if it's not been used for a while.
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