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Advice on V70 D5 - Looking to buy

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Old Jun 30th, 2020, 07:09   #1
watson54z
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Default Advice on V70 D5 - Looking to buy

Hi,

Im going to be looking for a V70 D5 Soon and looking for some advice on what to look for. I'm looking to spend between 6k and 8k, first, is this enough to get a V70 that will last me without major bills? I do 50miles a day round commute, mainly all on bypass @70mph.

Previously i have had a 300d Auto - 2005 i think. I sold this as the torque converter started to grumble. Because of this i would ideally like a manual, however as there is more auto's about. Should i consider a auto -geartronic i think it is named. Is there much issues with them, is a clutch and fly as much as a refurb / carryout a flush and oil change and it should be as good as the manual?

So far I think I'm looking at between 2008 and 2011, se lux or a r design with between 80k and 100k i guess. Am i about right on the above for 6k-8k?


Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks
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Old Jun 30th, 2020, 07:46   #2
spitz
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Quite a few options in your price range found on Autotrader using their search tool.

A 2012 example

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/classif...02006039748621
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Old Jun 30th, 2020, 09:25   #3
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My two penneth....

- Autoboxes are okay, but get the transmission oil changed if it hasn't been done (most unlikely) - costs around 250-300.

- Service history is very valuable

- Go for SE LUX model - has Bi-Xenon headlights (very good) and other pluses

- If you can stretch to it get a car with Sensus (the later infotainment system)

- With engine - look for later twin turbo models (212 BHP) - smoother and more economical. 185's are okay but less refined and slightly more thirsty.
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Old Jun 30th, 2020, 10:50   #4
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ok thank you both. I guess the best is to get the oil from Volvo and then go to my garage to change it. i guess the best is to ask for a flush too? is that just a case of having to buy twice as much oil changing it and running it through a cycle and doing it again?

i guess if i get one near 80 - 100k get the cam belt and water pump done, is there anything else that i should do and account for when buying?

Do these need anything like what my bmw had, which is a swirl flap deletion i think i was. (done before i bought it) or are these okay if i drive 50 miles a day at decent rev's?

Thanks
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Old Jun 30th, 2020, 11:56   #5
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Originally Posted by watson54z View Post
ok thank you both. I guess the best is to get the oil from Volvo and then go to my garage to change it. i guess the best is to ask for a flush too? is that just a case of having to buy twice as much oil changing it and running it through a cycle and doing it again?

i guess if i get one near 80 - 100k get the cam belt and water pump done, is there anything else that i should do and account for when buying?

Do these need anything like what my bmw had, which is a swirl flap deletion i think i was. (done before i bought it) or are these okay if i drive 50 miles a day at decent rev's?

Thanks
Think you mean DPF? They're fine - providing the car is in good health - you should have no worries with your commute.
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Old Jun 30th, 2020, 13:56   #6
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Thinks he does mean swirl flap deletion. Can be a problem on BMWs with the screws holding the swirl flaps coming loose, which get injected into the engine with catastrophic effect. Many BMW owners get the swirl flaps taken out and blanks fitted. I did it to my E39 BMW 525d.

I have not heard of the same problem on the Volvo D5 engines, although the swirl flap actuator lever can be troublesome. Not sure if thats still the case on the years watson54z is looking at.

Hope this helps.
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Old Jun 30th, 2020, 16:27   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by watson54z View Post
ok thank you both. I guess the best is to get the oil from Volvo and then go to my garage to change it. i guess the best is to ask for a flush too? is that just a case of having to buy twice as much oil changing it and running it through a cycle and doing it again?

i guess if i get one near 80 - 100k get the cam belt and water pump done, is there anything else that i should do and account for when buying?

Do these need anything like what my bmw had, which is a swirl flap deletion i think i was. (done before i bought it) or are these okay if i drive 50 miles a day at decent rev's?

Thanks
On the D5 engine, you should not just change the water pump every time you change the belt like you would on a VW, these Volvo pumps last well. Only change the water pump if it's leaking or feels rough.
It is important to regularly change the aux belt and tensioner every 50k or so, these can fail and wreak havoc with the timing belt. If anything, the aux belt is more critical on the D5 than the cam belt.
Buy genuine Volvo parts at good prices from eBay seller "volvopartstrade"
There are swirl flaps in the cylinder head on euro 4 & euro 5 engines, these are mostly trouble-free, they don't fall apart like the BMW ones.
The years you are considering will have the TF80 6 speed auto 'box, keep the ATF clean by flush or drop & fill.
If you get a manual, it will probably have the M66 6 speed 'box, this is a strong unit although the clutch slave cylinder can leak, which means gearbox out.

Regular oil changes with 5.7 litres of OW30 A5B5 oil & Mann filter will keep the engine sweet.
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Old Jun 30th, 2020, 21:52   #8
Kev0607
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Originally Posted by watson54z View Post
ok thank you both. I guess the best is to get the oil from Volvo and then go to my garage to change it. i guess the best is to ask for a flush too? is that just a case of having to buy twice as much oil changing it and running it through a cycle and doing it again?

i guess if i get one near 80 - 100k get the cam belt and water pump done, is there anything else that i should do and account for when buying?

Do these need anything like what my bmw had, which is a swirl flap deletion i think i was. (done before i bought it) or are these okay if i drive 50 miles a day at decent rev's?

Thanks
Some garages will do a flush, but some won't. Personally, I'm not a fan of flushing the whole transmission because there's a higher chance of old gunk/debris getting lodged inside the transmission. Simply doing a "drain & fill" or "sump dump" (Draining approx 3L of fluid & filling it up again) replaces part of the fluid, not all. However, if you do a few "sump dumps" or "drain & fills" over a period of time, you're technically replacing pretty much all the fluid in stages, as opposed to flushing the fluid all in one (Less likelihood of dislodging gunk/debris this way).

Many have had transmission flushes with no issues, but that's a risk that you take. The garage I bring my car to doesn't do flushing, they only use the sump dump method because I guess its less forceful in comparison to a full flush. There's no right or wrong way as such though, this is just a personal opinion. Make sure you use the correct transmission fluid too. Buying it from a Volvo dealership isn't a bad idea in that respect, but if you're doing a full flush & using a lot of fluid in one go, its pretty expensive to buy from a dealership. If doing a "sump dump" though, you only need to buy a 4L jug at a time, then buy another when you're renewing the fluid again etc. If works out the same more or less, but you're not spending a fair bit in one go buying all the fluid at once that way.

You can buy fluid online from brands like Mannol or Smith & Allen, which are usually far cheaper than a dealership. Its the spec of the fluid that matters, so buying from these brands is fine, so long as you buy the correct spec (Double check the spec your car needs with Volvo). The year of the vehicle you're considering will either take JWS3309 (If its a 2008), but any newer, it may require a different transmission fluid because Volvo changed the fluids used in newer models. Very important to check this, as you can't just use any old fluid in these vehicles... The spec is vital

In regards to things to look out for;

1. Timing belt replacement is 10 years or 108k (Whichever comes first). If there's no record of it being done, just replace it.

2. Replace the aux belt, a/c belt & the tensioner too (If there's no record of them being done before, as this is part of the 10 year/108k cambelt service). V70's have two belts, one is for the a/c & the other is for the alternator etc - It makes sense to replace both with the cambelt, as well as the tensioner. There's only one tensioner though, which is for the main aux belt. The a/c belt doesn't have a tensioner, its just a snug fit around the pulleys. If you do get the aux belt & tensioner changed, then keep record of it & do it again in another 5 years or 54k (Whichever comes first) - This is the recommended replacement interval. The aux belts are a common failure on these engines, which can cause serious damage. So, if there's no record, get these parts replaced (Tensioner, aux belt & a/c belt).

3. Only replace the water pump if its leaking or making noise. Generally, the water pumps are very good. If its running fine, leave it be.

4. Use genuine Volvo parts. Don't buy cheap aftermarket ones because you'll only be replacing them again.

5. Buy a vehicle with good history, ideally full. However, be careful because many assume that the parts above have been replaced because the car has "full history". The history generally only applies to servicing, so it may well have had an oil change every year, but the cam belt etc may have never been replaced. However, the vehicle may still be advertised as having full service history. Take your time, have a look through the paperwork (if any). A car that has been well looked after generally will have supporting evidence of work that has been done. If there isn't any, that doesn't necessarily mean its a bad car, but you have to be prepared to spend money for repairs/peace of mind because you don't actually know if anything has been done before.

V70's are great & the D5 engine is brilliant. Good luck car shopping.
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Old Jul 1st, 2020, 09:28   #9
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Hi, Thank you all, you have given me everything i think i need to look for a one, i m in no rush. As you hit upon with the water pump, i have a golf 1.9tdi estate, hence the water pump change, its on 180k original clutch so hopefully i can find one before this goes.....

I think ill not be too set on a manual, clutch fail or oil change both have a cost so doesn't make much difference - just hope i don't get another rebuild required (element of luck i guess). But will get the oil changed as soon as i get one if i do. Is the best thing to do a oil dump every 30k or so then instead maybe?

Thank you all for your time explaining what to look for and how to make it last - hopefully i pick a good one now

Thanks all.
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Old Jul 1st, 2020, 22:42   #10
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Originally Posted by watson54z View Post
Hi, Thank you all, you have given me everything i think i need to look for a one, i m in no rush. As you hit upon with the water pump, i have a golf 1.9tdi estate, hence the water pump change, its on 180k original clutch so hopefully i can find one before this goes.....

I think ill not be too set on a manual, clutch fail or oil change both have a cost so doesn't make much difference - just hope i don't get another rebuild required (element of luck i guess). But will get the oil changed as soon as i get one if i do. Is the best thing to do a oil dump every 30k or so then instead maybe?

Thank you all for your time explaining what to look for and how to make it last - hopefully i pick a good one now

Thanks all.
Changing the transmission fluid isn't part of Volvo's service schedule, as its a "sealed for life" unit supposedly. I never take any heed of these statements because the fluid is bound to get dirty & be less effective over time, so it makes sense to change it. Why manufacturer's make these claims we'll never know, but loads seem to do it (Mercedes & BMW to name a few).

If you use the vehicle for towing, you'd probably want to change the transmission fluid via sump dump every 25k-30k max. If you aren't towing, you could leave it longer to say 40k-45k max. Its up to you how often you change it though, so there's no right or wrong as such because its not part of the manufacturer's service schedule. The intervals I've stated are what I've been advised by a garage I frequently use.

The way I see it is a transmission fluid change via sump dump every 25k-30k if towing, or 40k-45k if not is better than never changing it at all... The transmission will be getting some new fluid over a period of time. You'll probably only get approx 3L out of the transmission via sump dump, but it holds around 7L in total (This is because the rest of the fluid will be in the internals of the transmission that you simply can't drain by a sump dump). Yes, you could do a full transmission flush if you wanted to renew all the fluid in one go. Personally, I wouldn't recommend a full flush because its a bit like flushing an engine... There's a chance of dirt/debris getting dislodged & causing issues. I'd never flush an engine or transmission, but like I said before, some people do & have never had an issue. I just feel a sump dump is safer, but its up to you.

I'm not an expert, nor do I claim to be before anyone starts nit picking that they've flushed their transmission & never had issues. What you do to your car is your choice, I'm only offering my opinion that there's less likelihood of dirt etc getting dislodged in the transmission by changing the fluid via the sump dump method, as opposed to a full flush of the system.
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