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PV, 120 (Amazon), 1800 General Forum for the Volvo PV, 120 and 1800 cars |
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Shock Absorber Bushes OrderViews : 762 Replies : 8Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Nov 14th, 2020, 17:33 | #1 |
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Shock Absorber Bushes Order
Hi,
I'm in the process of replacing my Monroe front shock absorbers (Amazon - 1969) and I'm not sure of the order that the bushes go. I've got two types of rubber bush - a larger diameter plain profile one and a ridged smaller diameter one. I've attached photos showing how I think they should be set up, but I would be grateful if someone could confirm this. Starting from the threaded end of the shock absorber my order is: 1. Thickest, heaviest steel washer (rounded) 2. Smaller diameter ridged rubber bush 3. Brass coloured washer 4. Larger diameter plain profile rubber bush 5. Steel washer Can anyone confirm that this is right? Thanks, Ed |
Nov 15th, 2020, 09:53 | #2 |
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I can't help.
On the whole I would expect the brass washer to not be against the structure of the vehicle. I'd expect the rubber bushings to be doing that work. 99 times in the 100 Monroe put a tiny little booklet in the packaging showing the order of parts fitment. Perhaps a re-visit to packaging is necessary? Otherwise there must be a parts catalogue some where online... ...my wild guess would be the wider bushing at the very top of the thread - all guess work from me though - I hope someone else can actually help.
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Nov 15th, 2020, 13:30 | #3 |
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Here you go: http://volvo1800pictures.com/documen...ngs_wheels.pdf
Brass cup other way round and on top of crossmember is how I read it.
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Nov 15th, 2020, 14:32 | #4 |
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The central metal washer isn't used. The two fat rubbers should have a small lip which goes into the hole in the cross member. I can see the top one but the bottom one is hidden by the centre washer. The hole in the cross member is often worn oval due to these lips being worn away. That allows the rod to wear the mount. If the hole has only minimal wear, at least smooth out any sharp edges to stop them damaging the lips for a while. They rarely last long. Common to weld on a large washer to cure that or a shaped cap if the area is cracked. The shaped cap is good anyway to strengthen the area. Make a sort of cross by snipping 4 triangles out of a bit of steel, tap down over the mount and get welding.
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Nov 17th, 2020, 22:21 | #5 |
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Many thanks for the helpful replies.
I tried the green book before I posted, but my reading of it was inconclusive. After a great deal of humming and haaing and playing with the different pieces I came up with an order that I think should work. I say "think" as I've not been able to test drive the car yet. I drove it out of the workshop (very slowly) to find that the brakes have gone. Looks like a leaky rear wheel cylinder. The order I used, starting from the fat tube of the shock working towards the threaded ends, was: 1. Steel washer 2. Smaller diameter ridged rubber bush METAL SUSPENSION COMPONENT 3. Larger diameter plain profile rubber bush 4. Brass coloured washer 5. Thickest, heaviest steel washer (rounded) I managed to forget to photograph the order, so I've attached a cobbled together image that, hopefully, shows what I'm trying to describe. |
Nov 18th, 2020, 11:21 | #6 |
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Nov 18th, 2020, 11:35 | #7 | |
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Quote:
HI Just changed out my shocks and had similar problem What I did do in the end is built as attached green book picture but left out the lower washer on top of crossmember i.e Both top bushed are either side of crossmember wit outer washers. You will notice on the bottom bracket that a dished shaped hole is there to take the lower bush so pretty much like the picture in the green book Hope this helps Paul |
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Nov 18th, 2020, 13:11 | #8 | |
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Quote:
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One day I will get rid of all of the rust. Last edited by Burdekin; Nov 18th, 2020 at 13:20. |
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Nov 18th, 2020, 13:19 | #9 |
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Also welded a top support plate on the cross member.
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