Oh no!, not again!

['88740GL]

I attempted to do an oil change yesterday, i went out on my travels and bought my usual (15W/40 Semi synthetic) and i had a genuine volvo oil filter at hand, on my back on a thin wad of cardboard in the slush, got my wrench socket set, (more precise my dads, he hardly uses them)......

Could i get that sump plug to move? Did i heck, i decided then to give up rather than slip and crack a knuckle on something sharp underneath my car, so swearing and growling, getting out of now diry clothes, i put everything away into the shed,

......remembering that the first time i wanted to do an oil change, i did the same, bought the oil and the filter etc....only finding out that i could change the oil..... i had to take it all to my mechanics who happily changed the oil, used my oil and filter i'd bought, then i requested him to fit 4 new plugs....he charged £40!! in total.. pure labour charge!

I'm sure a sump plug shouldn't be torqued down any tighter than hand tight with a ring spanner....the washer on it should do the rest.....instead mechanics like to overly use their impact air wrench and torque 'em down to probably 300 ft.lb!!

so now i'll have to find a small plan or pay £30-40 to someone to do a job that i can do for fun....

**my dads tools aren't very varied, just a load of metric and imperial open and ring spanners, a few pliers, pinch grips, mole wrench and monkey wrench, spark gap feeler gauges and a load of metric and imperialo sockets....

[Oilydad]

Yeah. Why these people have to use brute strength when doing up nuts like this is beyond most of us. A sump plug only needs a sensible final tweak to ensure it doesn't come out, because generally, the copper or fibre washer will compress and hold the plug.

So what to do: Well I'd hang on until the slush has gone certainly, because working in those sort of conditions isn't ideal.

Firstly, warm the engine (and the oil) up a bit. Then....

A good fitting ring or socket should, with a sharp and firm whack with a good hammer jar it loose. Just pulling on it may distort it, so use shock as above to get it out.

But don't do it cold. You could easily shear or break something, including your fingers... Warm the engine first.

['88740GL]

Thank you for the tips, the engine was warm to begin with, (i'd literally just drove back from picking up the oil) I've soaked it in WD 40 also, next time i try it should help. I always try to drain oil whilst its still hot, (or at least safe enough to handle)

I laughed at my volvo's instruction book 'Drain the oil when its hot...CAUTION! The oil may be hot!'....

I will leave it till the weather improves, the oil i first put in was 15w/40 enhanced mineral oil (halfords own brand is actually good stuff!) I picked up their semi synthetic 15w/40 5 litres for £14.99 yesterday!

I've done 7 months of 'unfavourable' driving and few good motorway journies on this mineral oil, so i though after 4000 miles its due a change.

[monman]

I had the same problem changing my oil, some numpty overtightening the sump plug. I ended up lending a stilson wrench off a plumber mate of mine.

Remember if possible to fit a new washer to the sump plug.

[amaz'in]

I have to admit...even though i'm the only person who changes the oil on my cars..(sump plug nipped up..plus a bit..and no more) when I come to undo them 5,000-6,000 miles later..they always need a bit of persuasion to undo.

All the cars I have bought...when they first arrived home..I have had to use a breaker (very long socket bar) to undo the sump pugs..I swear and curse about the moron's who do them up...madness...it's why the sump washer is there.

Am I still the only person who uses a torque wrench for things..including spark plugs?

Is your engine a high miler? if not 10w40 I thought was the ideal oil for your car?

You still running her on the good stuff (fuel)?

James

[S60D5-185]

Originally Posted by Oilydad

the copper or fibre washer will compress and hold the plug.

Firstly, warm the engine (and the oil) up a bit. Then....

A good fitting ring or socket should, with a sharp and firm whack with a good hammer jar it loose. Just pulling on it may distort it, so use shock as above to get it out.

But don't do it cold. You could easily shear or break something, including your fingers... Warm the engine first.

Sound advice!


Darryl

['88740GL]

Originally Posted by amaz'in

I have to admit...even though i'm the only person who changes the oil on my cars..(sump plug nipped up..plus a bit..and no more) when I come to undo them 5,000-6,000 miles later..they always need a bit of persuasion to undo.

All the cars I have bought...when they first arrived home..I have had to use a breaker (very long socket bar) to undo the sump pugs..I swear and curse about the moron's who do them up...madness...it's why the sump washer is there.

Am I still the only person who uses a torque wrench for things..including spark plugs?

Is your engine a high miler? if not 10w40 I thought was the ideal oil for your car?

You still running her on the good stuff (fuel)?

James

very low mileage, (47K now) standard unleaded at the moment, but i am pondering about using methanol due to sudden hike in fuel prices but at first i will try the octane increasing properties of acetone at 2.5mls per litre (helps the fuel atomise better) more power, (apparently, and more economy)

I have a torque wrench..but ever wondered, would undoing bolts with it damage it? I think 10w/40 is a little runny for my liking (i saw how runny 5w and 0w are!! when this stuff gets hot, it must be like water!

[les g Swaffer]

If you don't have a breaker you could extend the ratchet by putting a box spanner over the end and putting a bar in the other end I used the handle of a hydraulic jack

[zetor160]

Cold chisel and Knock-o-meter i.e.large hammer..that'll break the pressure.. then unwind with socket.
May damage plug, but if it's been done up that tight..better get a new one anyway ..and then it's yours to look after
Bin there..done it..got the T shirt..he he
Good luck

[James A]

I remove the sump plugs on my cars with a suitable 3/4" socket attached to a big breaker bar. Effortless, no matter how tight they are, and no skinned knuckles