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700/900 Series General Forum for the Volvo 740, 760, 780, 940, 960 & S/V90 cars |
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Whats with the clutch?Views : 1007 Replies : 12Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Jan 27th, 2011, 09:00 | #1 |
Senior Member
Last Online: Jun 2nd, 2013 22:00
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Location: salford
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Whats with the clutch?
Hello all, i'm writing this on behalf of an old neighbour who has 2 little problems with his 740.. his is an E/F reg saloon in a tired looking champagne color, with 89,000 miles on the clock, the block says B200 and its a K-Jet setup, so B200E,
The old guy said that when he tries to take off in first gear, it goes, but more or less everytime on the take up of the bite, the car begins forward as it should, then around halfway through letting the clutch out fully, it judders or shudders, (almost as if you aren't giving it enough gas and wants to stall...I've had a go and it does just how i've described, i tried giving it more gas and it still judders, sometimes not as much, but it still does it.. I even tried letting the clutch out slowly, slipping it whilst taking off in first gear..and i get a muffled screech or groan for a second or two as the clutch bites in... I've only had that on a 1999 vauxhall corsa, with the diesel engine with a horrid cable adjusted clutch (i literally had to take the slack out of the cable every week it stretched that much!!!) This car selects gears very easily, doesnt jump out of any nor grind, once you get going all the rest of the gear changes are smooth as you like.. its just the initial load on the clutch to get the car moving.. i know the 2.0 is 'underpowered' for the size of the car but these cars can pull horseboxes and caravans. haha (owner has told me he has done no such towing with the car in the 4 years of owning.. Is he clutch buggered? That news will make his day.. haha P.S the clutch bites in around 2-1/2 3 inches from the floor up seems ok.. |
Jan 27th, 2011, 09:32 | #2 |
Volvologist
Last Online: Dec 6th, 2023 11:13
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Bangor - Norn Iron
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Clutch pressure plate and / or flywheel is warped, or has high spots, same idea as brake judder, replacing the clutch will more than likely cure it, but it may need a wee skim off the flywheel too
Just thinking, oil can also cause this problem, if the rear seal is leaking, there could be oil on the clutch disc
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Jan 27th, 2011, 10:05 | #3 | |
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Last Online: Jun 2nd, 2013 22:00
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Location: salford
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Quote:
Sounds like he's had overheating? pfft clutch riders... Which seal (i know you said the rear) Do you mean the engine block to bellhousing seal, or the gearbox to bellhousing seal? Possibly the crankcase seal? all these seals.. His other problem is a mysterious water leak into the boot area (Saloon) It looked like condensation, but he had the boot open and aired it out, dried up the underside of the boot lid, waxed it too...(my recommendation) but it keeps coming back, so i pulled up the corner recess pocket, fuel filler cap side, and it looks like condensation is collecting in that corner.... just keeps coming back... |
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Jan 27th, 2011, 10:14 | #4 | |
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Last Online: Mar 21st, 2016 21:21
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Exeter Devon
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Enough advice about the clutch which I agree with....whatever, he is going to need to get the clutch removed and replaced.
Quote:
Check the grommet, or the hole where the grommet was, as this is a favourite spot for a leak. You can wax the underside of the boot lid till the cows come home,....but put money on it...... there is water coming into the car from the boot floor. Good way to find it is to crawl under the car at night and get someone to shine a bright work light all round the boot floor. If (when) you see light...there's your hole. You obviously need to either fibreglass, plate or fill it as necessary. Any hole at all will let water in, as it comes up from the rear wheel under the wheel arch. Ignore it, and the car will rust. Unless you want to remove the fuel tank........with all safety precautions DO NOT weld it!! You might be playing the big part in mission impossible!! Once you've dealt with it, give the whole area, inside and outside the boot a good coat of underseal.
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Are We Nearly There Yet! No longer a VOLVO owner, not by choice, but 'cause they don't make proper Volvos any more! Last edited by Oilydad; Jan 27th, 2011 at 10:20. |
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Jan 27th, 2011, 10:59 | #5 | |
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Last Online: Jun 2nd, 2013 22:00
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Quote:
The clutch i will have to tell him the news, ah well, things wear down.. Thank you Very much for the advice once again! |
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Jan 27th, 2011, 11:43 | #6 |
Forum Support Team
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Hi,
Or maybe there is a sun roof? If so, make sure the drain pipe is connected correctly and not just depositing its contents into the boot. Des. . .
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Jan 27th, 2011, 12:49 | #7 |
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Last Online: Jun 2nd, 2013 22:00
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theres no sunroof, its odd, i've pulled up the carpet, dried it all out (was only that side) dried out any developing condensation, and left it peeled up....next day, after a short spell of rain...about a tablespoons worth of water is in that corner pocket again...its source? the ledge below the light cluster...its almost as if the rain is leaching through the light cluster gasket somehow.. they are new rear light and gaskets, and the bolts seem to be tight enough..
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Jan 27th, 2011, 16:22 | #8 |
Forum Support Team
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Hi,
Dry it all out, remove carpets and sprinkle talc around. Whatever is getting in and from wherever will leave a trace in the talc. Des. . .
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Density:- Not just a measurement ~ It's a whole way of Life.! ! ! I drive a Volvo, Please Don't Get In My Way! He shows up. People die. He vanishes. People should not be afraid of their governments. "He'll deliver more justice in a weekend than 10 years of your Governments should be afraid of their people... "V" courts & tribunals. Just stay out of his way." "I plan to."
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Jan 27th, 2011, 17:30 | #9 |
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Last Online: May 16th, 2014 08:31
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Location: edinburgh
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Don't mention its the pressure plate, thrust bearing or the friction disc , ok i won't, but had a 240 that let in water after i had welded in a new rear 1/4 panel, and replaced the tail lamp after a bump.
It leaked at the cluster, after much finger pointing at the welder (me!) and me saying i had done the job properly we refitted the cracked original cluster, taped up the crack in the lens and put the hose on it. No leak, fitted the cluster supplied by Euro car parts, huge leak. Fault was cured with fat bead of clear bath sealant round the light units surface where it should mate up to the body panels. |
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Jan 27th, 2011, 19:05 | #10 | |
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