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No fag lighter power

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Old Aug 22nd, 2017, 12:09   #11
volvoski
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I will post a picture of the passenger footwell as soon as I can if you think it will help. I'm away at the moment so it's tricky. What is an my 11 car please?
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Old Aug 22nd, 2017, 13:01   #12
Simon Jones
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MY refers to Model Year. Typically, manufacturers bring out next years model a number of months before the calendar year starts. Hopefully, the owners manual in your glovebox will be the correct one for your MY so should confirm fuse location.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2017, 17:29   #13
volvoski
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Thanks for,that, makes more sense that I may have the wrong book rather than the fuse being removed for no reason and the terminals with it.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2017, 22:28   #14
Shinjuku
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If you search my past threads youll find info on how to run a wire from fuse board which piggy backs onto an existinf fuse. Buy a 12v socket wirh wire from ebay and wire in then locate where you want. Mine is for power supply to phone so i terminated the 12v in drivers footwell. May be more tricky if you want an accessible socket day to day. However that's how id suggest you work around by taking a feed from another switched fuse to provide an alternative 12v power source.

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Old Aug 22nd, 2017, 23:06   #15
Simon Jones
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On my XC70, there are actually a couple of spare sockets in the fusebox under the glovebox. At least one is switched and the other permanent live. I've taken a feed from both into a switch and then on to a 3-way accessory socket which means I can leave the dashcam semi-hard-wired in and and flip it over to run when the ignition is off. Handy when leaving the car at the supermarket or other places where it's more likely to get whacked.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2017, 09:59   #16
apersson850
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Standard is that you have power outlets at the front and rear end of the center console.
Cigarette lighters aren't fitted, since smoking has gone out of fashion and smoking in the car has always been awful. But you can order a "smoking kit", which I think includes ashtray and lighters. Nobody does nowadays, more or less.

Still, it should work for charging phones and such stuff. The rear power outlet is on a separate circuit.
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Old Aug 26th, 2017, 19:57   #17
volvoski
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So I spent a happy half hour upside down sweating in the passenger footwell before I managed to remove the fuse box lid. ....after removing and checking five 15 amp blue fuses I now feel confident that I can wallpaper our hall and stairs using our letterbox and a Swiss Army knife. The sixth fuse was blown and a replacement sees both sockets restored to glory. I was a bit surprised as my owners instruction book didn't even mention this camouflaged fortress of fuses.
Unfortunately I only have the larger cigarette lighters- in my Alfas - which won't fit the Volvo socket.
Where would I go to buy a cigarette lighter to fit? Dealer I guess but probably frighteningly expensive? Any decent Volvo breakers around?
I think with some physio and a large tincture blood flow may eventually return to my right ear.
Thankyou for the helpful advice on here, John.
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Old Aug 26th, 2017, 21:57   #18
apersson850
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I've heard that people dropping coins into the "hole" for the power outlet in the front is a common reason for a short circuit, and then a blown fuse.
The fuses you mention are described in my owner's manual. Makes me wonder why they aren't listed in some editions? My manual also clearly describes which fuse power the outlets in the tunnel console.

Last edited by apersson850; Aug 26th, 2017 at 22:22.
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Old Aug 27th, 2017, 07:42   #19
I-S
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I suspect, as you mentioned, that you indeed have the wrong manual - your car was just on the cusp of the change to the fuses and you were given the old manual. I'm glad that you were able to get it resolved.
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Old Aug 27th, 2017, 12:05   #20
volvoski
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Her majesty will be happy. Fag lighter restored and the powered cool box can be used again. Our dogs use the entire cargo area so the rear socket will be used to power the box. We use the car regularly for long journeys and it will be a good thing to keep frozen stuff frozen if we get caught in traffic. It makes a three hour blast a six hour crawl all too regularly.
We were in two minds to part ex the car for a newer lower miles vehicle but it has so far ran faultlessly to this point doing its job well. 155,000 miles now on a 60 plate. We just had the big all belts and fluids -auto gearbox and haldex diffs and brakes included- and are planning to run it to 200,000 miles-probably another two years- before considering it's replacement again.
It's odd but I always find its the details and niggles which let a car down. I do like it all to work properly.
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